Fill Flash w/D Flash 40, Amazing!

<p>This is more of a comment than it is a question. Nonetheless, I have to share it with other users. I just recently started using a D Flash with my 503 cx. I had read earlier posts about how easy it is to use this flash (and ones similar to it). I can't believe it's simplicity as well as the results it delivers! I shot a number of photos with and without fill flash as well as experimenting with the camera's ASA setting. The results that I got were dead on each time. I was certain that I would get a few "duds", but everything came out just fine.</p>

<p>For those who are unfamiliar with the D Flash, it has an on/off switch and that's about it. Film speed is set via the camera and there is an indicator light in the viewfinder. The light flashes if the film received enough light. I love it! If one wants more or less light the camera's film speed can be changed. It's really that simple! I had an SB-26 for my Nikon and loved it as well, but I had such a time figuring out and remembering all of it's features. A good flash, but more than what I needed.</p>

<p>I'm using the D Flash with a Stroboframe Pro 66 and my prism is the PME 3. It's a wonderful little (but heavy) set up and allows me to take some terrific photos. I just printed contact sheets and I will try to scan and upload images at some point.</p>

<p>Have others used a similar set up and found it to be very simple? I can understand why wedding photographers and the like used a similar flash in the past. Man! It's great balancing available light with the flash!</p>

<p>Also, what have others experienced when diffusing their D Flash (or similar) as well as using bounce? I want to experiment with that next! Does anyone have recommendations on a diffuser as well as setting the flash/camera when bouncing the flash?</p>

<p>Thank you for your replies,<br>

Bruce</p>

<p>Yep, at one time it was one of the promotional toys Hasselbla would include if you bought a new kit. That's how I got mine. I put high capacity rechargeable batteries in it and it would last most of a wedding, then I would put a new set in and that would last the rest of the job. Very user friendly.</p>

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<p>Have others used a similar set up and found it to be very simple?</p>

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<p>Yep. A Metz flash with SCA adapter.</p>

<p> </p>

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<p>Also, what have others experienced when diffusing their D Flash (or similar) as well as using bounce? I want to experiment with that next! Does anyone have recommendations on a diffuser as well as setting the flash/camera when bouncing the flash?</p>

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<p>Bouncing light using the D40 produces the same light as other units bounced.<br />(When used 'direct', there isn't much of a difference compared to other units either).</p>

<p>Diffusing will be difficult, due to the large reflector. I haven't tried yet.<br>

Mostly, because i find the D 40 too big and unwieldy, while it does not produce better light than any other flash unit.<br>

So i use other units.</p>

<p>What i do when bouncing other TTL flash units is to leave it up to the TTL metering, i.e. use it as if not bounced.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Q. G.<br>

Thanks for your response. I was wondering if using bounce would work just as you described! I also figured that I could decrease the camera's film setting in order to increase the flash's output. I'll give it a try!<br>

Thanks,<br>

Bruce</p>

<p>Bruce,</p>

<p>I once did a simple quick comparison between the D40, a small shoe mount Metz unit, and one of the ubiquitous Metz handle mount units.</p>

<p><img src="http://home.tiscali.nl/qnu/PN/Flash6.jpg" alt="" width="630" height="700" /></p>

<p>The statuette is about 25 cm/10" high, and relatively close (about 1.5 - 2 meters) from the flash, allowing the reflector size to have some influence (from further away, they are all just small specks of light without any appreciable difference).</p>

<p>You'll notice that there is practically no difference between the large D40 and the small 32 CT 3. The edge of the shadow is a little bit more fuzzy in the picture lit by the D40, but that's it.<br>

That handle mount Metz 45 CT 4 produces the same light, though offset a bit to the left compared to the shoe mount 32 CT 3 and D40.</p>

<p>Using the D40 without reflector (bare bulb) inside creates a mix of direct and indirect light. It wastes a lot of the flash's output though. The Metz Handle mount unit is one that has a small second light underneath the main light. Bouncing its main light off the ceiling, with the small light illuminating the statuette direct produces a less harsh light. I prefer that to bare bulb D40 by far.</p>

<p>The best light is that completely bounced off the ceiling. Only the picture lit by the D40 is shown, since the other two units produced exactly the same light.</p>

<p>As a result of this test, my D40 is in a box in a cupboard somewhere. As a shoe mount flash, the Metz 32 CT 3 does equally well, yet is quite a lot smaller (The little Metz is about the size of a Hasselblad magazine. Try to put a D40 in your camera bag ...).<br>

If a bit more power is needed, i use my Metz 45 CT units. I find these too much easier, more comfortable in use than the D40.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>What about the distance variable using the D40? I've read that the D40 is limited to relatively close distances. What are those limitations?</p>

<p>Apart from the photometric law of distance (light spreads, so the intensity is reduced the larger the distance from the source gets) and resulting guide number thing (things that you come across with all light sources and flash units), there is no distance variable and/or limitation.<br>

You could use the D40 to illuminate the moon, if only you could be content with the effect being very, very, very (etc.) small. ;-)</p>

<p>The guide number of the D40 is 40 m (with the reflector in Normal position. 33 m with the thing in Wide position).<br />That of the ProFlash/Metz 45 CT 4 used in the comparison is 45, allowing an 0.3 stop smaller aperture at the same distance.<br />That of the smaller Metz 32 CT 3 is 32 m, needing an 0.6 stop wider aperture at the same distance.</p>

<p>The difference between both Metz units is 1 stop, the D40 is in between both (a bit closer to the 45 CT 4 than to the 32 CT 3). Both Metz units are quite usuable, which means that the D40 is too.</p>

<p>If only it was not such a behemoth ...</p>

<p>Is the Metz 32 CT 3 as easy to use as the d40 ?</p>

<p>Easier, in my opinion.</p>

<p>It needs a Metz SCA390 adapter to connect it to the Hasselblad's sensor (i.e. the proper foot underneath). You then just connect the cables, just like you do with the D40, and set the flash to TTL (which you do not need to do with the D40, since it is the only mode it offers).<br />From then on, it works exactly like the D40.</p>

<p>What makes it easier, in my opinion, is that it is smaller.<br />And that it has auto modes as well: you can use it on other cameras (Hasselblads too) that do not offer TTL OTF flash metering, and still have an automatic exposure mode with a (small) choice of apertures to work with.<br>

<br />The D40 can be used on other cameras too, but it then works in full power mode only, and you need to calculate the f-stop to set on the lens using the flash to subject distance, the guide number, possibly correcting for ISO too. And you then, of course, have no choice in what aperture to use; what the calculations prescribe is what you must use.</p>

<p>The 32 CT 3 puts out a little less light. And it does not offer a wide setting as convenient as the D40.</p>

<p>Excuse me for a question,<br>

I have a hotspot effect when using Metz 54 with sca390 adaptor in my 503cxi for direct hit. Also, I found the illumination is not good for 6x6 format due to rectanglar flash illuminator. The result is better for ceiling bouncing or attaching a large size reflector when tilting upstright the flash head.<br>

Grateful for any suggestions?<br>

SUN </p>

<p>Sun, I don't have an answer to your question regarding a hotspot. I believe that I have read elsewhere on this site of similar problems. That was another reason why I chose the D Flash 40. Regardless of work arounds and fixes, I wanted something simple to use and specific to the 503 cx. If you haven't already done so, I'd suggest searching photonet to see what others have encountered. Good luck, and I'm sure that you will get something to work. The Metz looks like and sounds like an excellent flash for the 503!</p>

<p>[Dang! I wrote something, hit the submit button, and found it disappeared. So once again:]</p>

<p>Sun,</p>

<p>I have no personal experience with the Metz 54, but setting the zoom reflector to a wider setting may help cover the taller 6x6 format.<br>

It may also help with the hotspot issue.<br>

(It also reduces the 'reach' of the flash unit: there's always aprice to pay ... :-( )</p>

<p>Unless used as low intensity fill, direct (on or near camera) flash always produces ugly results.<br>

Subjects too close always get blown away, while subjects too far away sink into a bottomless black hole.<br>

Bouncing flash off something (preferably big) helps a lot, but is not always possible. And it reduces the reach ever more.</p>

<p>So what i do is resign myself to the fact that flash pictures will look bad, and adopt an "It's flash, so get over it!" approach. Without flash, the pictures would be even worse (i.e. not possible, hence not there.)</p>

<p>Look in your Metz 54 manual. There is a setting for use with a square format.</p>