Focussing with a Mamiya 7

<p>Hi - Im thinking of getting a Mamiya 7, however, I have a question or 2. <br /> I know the Mamiya 7 is a rangefinder, but from everything Ive read, it's manual focus. Im used to manual focus cameras but I thought a 'rangefinder' was autofocus. Do you focus using the normal ring on the lens i.e you can see the subject and focus as you wish which can be seen through the viewfinder, or how does it work?</p>

<p>Many thanks.</p>

<p>Range finders are not autofocus. The focus ring on the lens barrel is coupled to a prism in the finder. You see a split image that you bring into focus.<br>

(Note that I don't have a Mamiya 7, rather various 35mm RFs, but the principles are the same.)</p>

 

<p>So far as I know, there is no AF rangefinder on the market nor that it ever was. You have to correct the focus on the lens manually by viewing thru a separate window. Both are working together and the result is the same as with a SLR/TLR, but the window view is much clearer so that it is easier to find the correct focus under bad light.</p>

<p>The vast majority of rangefinders are manual focus. The Contax G series is the only pseudo-rangefinder I know of that has autofocus.</p>

<p>I suggest reading the wikipedia entry. <br>

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rangefinder_camera</p>

<p>Rangefinders get light from two windows on the front. One goes to the viewfinder, the other produces a small image in the center of the viewfinder. As you adjust focus the angle of the second mirror changes. When the two images overlap the camera is correctly focused. The wikipedia entry has a good image.</p>

<p>To clarify, older rangefinders had separate windows for the viewfinder (used to compose the image) and the rangefinder (used to focus) Most current rangefinders have a combined viewfinder with the rangefinder image superimposed in the center.</p>

 

<p>Thank you.<br /> So, effectively, I would focus like I do with my Bronica or any other SLR, only it's not SLR. i.e I can choose to focus short or long and the stops will decide the amount of detail/focus in the background/foreground accordingly.</p>

<p>The Mamiya 7 has what is called a "superimposed image" rangefinder. There is a small window in the center of the viewfinder that combines the direct view with one taken a short distance away through the rangefinder window. Focus by turning the lens until the images overlap.</p>

<p>A rangerfinder of this sort works by triangulation. The secondary image is rotated until it overlaps, which establishes the angle. The base of the "triangle" is known (the distance between the viewfinder and the rangefinder window. With the base and angle known, you can calculate the distance (which is done automatically). Each lens has a cam configured so that the rangefinder and point of focus coincide.</p>

<p>Don't forget those Fuji 645 AF (faux?) rangefinders.</p>

<p>Contax G series were autofocus rangefinders. Not medium format though :|</p>

<p>You will not be viewing through the lens. Everything in the viewfinder looks sharp and it's not obvious how much depth of field there will be. It's also useful to use the depth of field scales on the lens and set the hyperfocal distance if you need expanded depth of field. </p>

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<p>I would focus like I do with my Bronica or any other SLR, only it's not SLR</p>

 

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<p>Well the process is the same but the appearance is very different. It does not look like focussing a Bronica. You have to align two images till they are fully superimposed. Its easier with wide/standard lenses than it is for example with the 150mm tele. Some people find it easier to focus a rangefinder than a slr, others find it harder. <br>

The other difference is in depth of field, in two respects. First with an slr you can to some degree assess dof through the lens. You can't do that with a rangefinder. With a Mamiya everything looks sharp ttl. Reality is you're flying blind unless you have a good idea of what dof you have with each lens/aperture/distance combination, which you may develop over time. I carry a dof table rather than keep guessing wrong. <br>

Second, the dof markings on a Mamiya 7 are very close together ( which limits their usefulness) and are far more optimistic than those on the barrels of a Bronica, for example. If you look at the lens barrels they will inform you that the Mamiya 7 has better dof than a Bronica 6x6, and this is not in fact the case. No need for a major debate on this- its simply the case that the manufacturers make different assumptions about how sharp "acceptably sharp " is at the limits of dof.</p>

<p>I suggest you try and use a rangefinder before buying one blindly. Some people love them, some people hate them, some people use both an SLR and a rangefinder. I think actually using it will answer many of your questions including if you really want one.</p>

<p>Perhaps you just get <i>any</i> 35mm rangefinder camera and check out if you like the concept before buying one of the most expensive MF cameras on the market. Look for one of the many different Yashica Electro 35 cameras (my favorite is the GX). Or the less common Agfa Optima 1535 sensor which comes pretty close to the Mamiya 6/7 because it too has a large and bright viewfinder. Alternatively you could also try your luck with a vintage Iskra 6x6 folder camera with a coupled rangefinder.</p>

<p>The Mamiya 7II is a wonderful camera for what it does best (for me, that's wide to normal landscapes). While there is a depth-of-field scale on the lens, many users have said that it is "overly optimistic" - i.e., the range that is showing to be in focus at f/22 is really in focus at the distances shown by the f/11 mark (approximately).</p>

<p>As you rotate the focusing ring it moves two superimposed images over each other in a patch in teh viewfinder, when they line up whatever you have it on is is focus.<br>

This also means that you have approximate frame lines since you are not viewing through the lens and depth of field is infinite through the viewfinder.<br>

Rangefinders are not for everyone but come with advatages in size, lens performance, and low light focusing.</p>

<p>My current Greatest Camera of All Time. Have takes 1000s of shots with it. Easy to use and great results.<br>

Focus is just like a Leica I find. So if you have ever used a Leica M6 or M7, this is very similar</p>

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<p>Perhaps you just get <em>any</em> 35mm rangefinder camera ... Look for one of the many different Yashica Electro 35 cameras ... also try your luck with a vintage Iskra 6x6 folder camera with a coupled rangefinder.</p>

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<p>Excellent suggestion.</p>

<p>Look also to the 60's and 70's vintage MF press rangefinder cameras: the Mamiya Press/Universal and the Koni-Omega Rapid's. </p>

<p>I have a KO Rapid-M myself. It's an excellent 6x7 camera with excellent optics but is very heavy. Don't worry about it. The weight will put hair on your chest and make a man out of ya. Be sure too to chomp on a dead stogie while shooting with this. The pictures turn out the same, but you feel better.</p>

<p>"Look also to the 60's and 70's vintage MF press rangefinder cameras: the Mamiya Press/Universal and the Koni-Omega Rapid's." <br>

These older rangefinders along with inexpensive 1970 small format rangefinders lack crisp focusing coincident edges. A soft edge image overlaps each other when in focus. In general the contrast is enhanced by a blue and yellow hue. It is easier to focus the Leica, Bronica RF645 and Mamiya 6/7 type rangefinders. </p>