rob_malkin Posted March 27, 2009 Share Posted March 27, 2009 <p>For what its worth, I would not get an MP. I had one, and the damn film rewinder was so darn annoying. Would take such a long time to rewind a pot.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blakley Posted March 27, 2009 Share Posted March 27, 2009 <p>I'll take rob's bait: I like the knob-style rewind of the M3, M2, and now the MP <em>better</em> than the lever of the M6. If you want to shoot wideangles, the M2 can't be beat. It's really a wonderful camera. For all-around convenience, and especially if you want a meter, I'd go with the MP.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulWhiting Posted March 27, 2009 Share Posted March 27, 2009 <p>Paul Neuthaler: I have an M2 with the 35 mm f/2.8 Summaron... have had this combination since the 80's and truly like it. Do you mean that lens is sharper than the Summicron? I wasn't sure if I read your message correctly. If so, wow!<br> Paul</p> www.paulwhitingphotography.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
e_b7 Posted March 28, 2009 Share Posted March 28, 2009 <p>Hard to say, because all will work fine. If you want the meter in the camera, then M6. M4 and newer models are easier to load. M3 does not have 35mm framelines as I recall. As for lens choices, it depends mostly on aesthetics and your preferences. The CV 35mm f/2.5 is a great lens for not much money. I compared it to a 3.5 Summaron, and saw no differences in tonal quality, although the CV had better micro detail. The newer Leica and Zeiss glass would be the same or better than the Voigtlander products. A lot is said about Leica glow. I think part of it refers to subtle tonal quality and more gentle contrast. The other aspect is reflections from bright spots in the picture that might be eliminated with newer coatings. In some cases, this glow can be very pleasing, and the newest Leica glass would be less likely to give you that than older versions. The new products are sharper and more contrasty, however. Have you thought about film choices? That makes a huge difference. I like Kodachrome, Plus-X and Ilford Pan 50, as well as the T-grain films if I want asa 400. Good luck! There are not-so-great films, but not much bad Leica or M-mount equipment, if any.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robbie_caswell Posted March 30, 2009 Share Posted March 30, 2009 <p>Glass first, then if money is an issue... the Bessa with an eye towards a M6. Especially ifyou are new to rangefinders. It takes quite awhile to be proficient.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryan_smith9 Posted March 31, 2009 Author Share Posted March 31, 2009 <p>I appreciate everyones input. I have decided to look at purchasing a Bessa. I prefer the R4M and will look into getting some nice lenses to go with it. I am looking into a 28mm or 35mm and a 50 - which I believe is the max I can get out the R4.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andresainderichin Posted April 1, 2009 Share Posted April 1, 2009 <p>Hello Ryan, Well, one has to decide at some point. I don't know about the Bessa, I'm sure it's an excellent camera (sounds a bit condescending that...). Let's make a bet. Same time, next year you'll own at least one Leica M.... o:). Have fun! André</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryan_smith9 Posted April 1, 2009 Author Share Posted April 1, 2009 <p>Andre, trust me, I want an M. After doing research I want an M6, which is about $1,000. I see some M4-Ps out there that would be decent for about $800 but then I am looking at another $200 to get an onboard meter. I see Bessa's out there for half - $500. I would rather have the Summicron than a cheaper, softer lens. Coming down to a nicer lens vs a nicer camera, I will go with the glass everytime.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trex1 Posted April 2, 2009 Share Posted April 2, 2009 Ryan, I would seriously consider an M4 or M3. They are better made than the M6s, and a ttl meter is over rated. I get much better exposures on my M3 with an incident meter, blacks come out as black, and whites come out as white. With ttl they come out as grey.<p> I picked up my M3 used for about 800 dollars. The finder is crystal clear, and also I believe a 0.9 magnification finder, which I find much easier to use than the standard M6 0.72 mag, not to mention the 0.5 or so CLE finder. In my opinion, the M3 is the best of the whole bunch.<p> I have recently been looking at M6s, because I would like the closer focusing, but they seem not to be so well built. The top and bottom plates are made of magnesium, which does not insulate the sound of the shutter as well as the brass of the M3, and sometimes produces bubbles under the black chrome, when the magnesium oxidises. Also the rangefinder patches often "white out." You will never see this with an M3. <p> I would say look for a mint M3, over a used M6. Or if you have to have the M6, then at least consider a mint M4, or figure in the cost of an overhaul. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trex1 Posted April 2, 2009 Share Posted April 2, 2009 Sorry, I just realised you wanted to use a 28mm lens. Then in that case I would consider the CLE or Hexar RF, even. They are both around 500 bucks or less. I have a CLE I am considering selling. It is perfect. I just do not like the wide view finder that much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryan_smith9 Posted April 2, 2009 Author Share Posted April 2, 2009 <p>Update, I found a great deal on a great condition M2 that I could not pass up. It comes with a Summicron 50, Elmar 3.5 and a Leitz Hektor 7.3 for $850. The M2 goes down to 35mm but I believe using a 28mm on it should fit in the finder.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trex1 Posted April 2, 2009 Share Posted April 2, 2009 <p>Or get an aux 28mm finder</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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