plastic tanks vs. metal tanks

<p>P.S. I learned on plastic, but I like the metal ones better. I find they're smoother on the loading and easier to keep clean. The Patterson design is a good model. I think it's been around for several decades. It's a matter of preference. Blonde or brunette? Elvis or the Beatles? Plastic or stainless tanks. Good luck. J.</p>

<p>Brunette, Beatles, stainless - what's to debate? Gosh people, these kind of things are just self-evident.</p>

<p>Well all i have to say is, brunette, and ofcourse Elvis</p>

<p>Metal tanks make you look like a Pro !</p>

<p>When using plastic submerge the empty tank in a bath the same temperature as your developing temp for 4 minutes & you will have no(imperceptible at least) temp shift unless you are developing in a very cold environment. P.d. Foote</p>

<p>One thing not discussed is the drain/fill time: I learned on a plastic Ansco tank and the fill/empty times were not condusive to good color work. So I temporarily switched to SS which was an improvement over the Ansco. But then I bought Patterson and noted that the empty fill times are faster. But now my daughter has the Patterson ( she left/donated it to the high school). But I note that the SS tank uses less chemistry per roll. Since I do one-shot development B&W or color I appreciate getting more rolls out of a liter of developer.</p>

<blockquote>

<p ><a href="../photodb/user?user_id=1827499">Terence Spross</a> , Jan 07, 2009; 11:42 p.m. (<a href="../bboard/admin-edit-msg?msg_id=00S2c2">edit</a> | <a href="../bboard/admin-delete-msg?msg_id=00S2c2">delete</a> )</p>

One thing not discussed is the drain/fill time...</blockquote>

<p>Note this earlier comment:</p>

 

<blockquote>

<p ><a href="../photodb/user?user_id=290223">Chris Waller</a> <a href="../member-status-icons"><img title="Hero" src="http://static.photo.net/v3graphics/member-status-icons/hero.gif" alt="" title="Hero" /> <img title="Frequent poster" src="http://static.photo.net/v3graphics/member-status-icons/1roll.gif" alt="" title="Frequent poster" /> </a> , Jan 04, 2009; 04:39 a.m. (<a href="../bboard/admin-edit-msg?msg_id=00RzlW">edit</a> | <a href="../bboard/admin-delete-msg?msg_id=00RzlW">delete</a> )</p>

 

<p>I've used Paterson tanks for the last 25 years. I've never found any difficulty loading the reels - just ensure they are bone dry before use. Paterson tanks fill and empty very quickly.</p>

 

</blockquote>

<p>Pour times are much quicker with the Paterson system, due to the generous funnel/light baffle system. That's the main reason I got a Paterson multi-reel tank. However, I never actually used it for developing film. Turned out I never needed to develop more than a couple of rolls at a time, so I stuck with metal tanks/reels for most processing. I wound up using the large Paterson tank to hold selenium toner for toning prints. The tank will hold prints up to 8x10 in size, which grip the walls of the tank and remain submerged. I got tired of continually poking prints under the toner in open trays. Less odor too.</p>

<p>Does anybody make a SS tank that can empty and fill as fast as the Patterson system?</p>

<p>Not that I know of. It's the lid, and they all look to be of the same design.</p>

<p>The longer fill time with stainless becomes only an issue with deep tanks. The first way to deal with this is to load the tank in the dark. Fill it up with solution, load the reels onto the dip stick thing'ee that came with the tank, then dunk all the reels into the tank at once.</p>

<p>Alternatively, change your development so that the fill time becomes a smaller fraction of the total. With HC-110, for example, many film develops in 4 to 5 minutes in dilution B. I tend to end up using dilution H because of this; development time basically doubles.</p>

<p>I just bought a SS tank with two reels for $26 from the local pro shop (these people are the BEST). Reading this thread with interest as I'll have two rolls for the soup tomorrow.<br>

One plastic tank has cracked om me since last year, and, with the lower temps in my basement, I'm looking for the thermal benefits of SS for tempering!</p>

 

<p>With a stainless Nikor one can load TWO rollers per single 35mm reel in a pinch; one has the emulsions out; the backs touching. Thus with a 2 reel 16oz tank and ran 2 reels; oen can load up 4 36 exposure rolls. Do not do this if you are are not already at ease with loading reels blindfolded :) and behind your back; or for a wedding shoot of a mafia bosses daughter.:)</p>

<p>With a stainless reel for 35mm; say a Nikor it might be 75 years old or just a decade. It might be jsut one of the no name imports from the 1960's and 1970's. It might be a nice reel thats not been bent; or one sort of stepped on; warped; sides not paralel. If its a surplus school one it it might horrible; bent; used as a hockey puck.</p>

<p>First, I have to say that this wealth of info is tremendous. Though, I agree that this topic is like /Mac vs PC/boxers vs briefs/Ford vs Chevy/etc. :-)<br>

But, some questions came to mind after reading the posts:<br>

1. I haven't done this stuff for many years, but I recently kinda got back into B&W processing. I have both plastic and metal. I have used both and I have to say that the plastic stuff is easier to use. I learned on metal gear in high school and I gravitate to that, but I seem to get a lot more with debris in the metal tanks. Any ideas? I go through a pretty thorough anti-dust ritual in my bathroom before every lab event (vacuum, wait, wipe-down, close door, wait, wipe-down).<br>

2. What do you folks recommend for cleaning tanks and reels (plastic and metal)? Just rinse thoroughly (pretty much all that I am doing)? Can you put them in the dishwasher? Do you use soap?<br>

3. If chemicals stick to plastic, how many cycles before you shouldn't use them?</p>

<p>I see that nobody has responded yet -<br>

Answers for Terry Williams -<br>

1. more debris in metal than plastic? I don't know the source - the tank is clean and darkroom clean according to your post. But was the film clean when you started? So I don't think the tank was your problem. You say the plastic was easier for you - then go for it.<br>

2. Cleaning tanks is usually just rinse thouroughly and dry before next use. There is no problem with running them through the dishwasher, but I have used dish washing detergent and an old toothbrush to get scum off. Alcohol could also be used. Rinse after using any chemical cleaning agen. Some solvents like acetone could be used on the metal but definatly not on plastic - but I don't know why you would need to.<br>

3. Plastic reels will wear out eventually, but not before metal reels will probalby be accidently bent.:-) An residue buildup shuld be cleaned by the toothbrush method. I had that happen many years ago when a medical emergency caused me to leave a rolll of B&W in the tank with developer for - as it turned out -a month or so. Pieces of emulsion everywhere - but it still cleaned up.</p>