Flash with no bounce surfaces - Direct?

<p>Hi. I make event photography and whenever I can I bounce my Speedlight flash light to the ceiling (45° or similar depending on subject distance), with a white card attached. I believe this is the standard technique.<br>

My doubt is what to do when you don't have surfaces to bounce (i.e. walls and roof are too high or far way, very common at parties). I have seen many photographers with different techniques, basically:<br>

1 ) tilting the flash unit as if it were a roof, with and without the white card<br>

2) tilting the flash unit 100% vertical (90° degrees). I really believe this technique is incorrect, but saw many doing it.<br>

3) direct flash with no diffuser<br>

4) direct flash with a diffuser, usually a plastic white box.<br>

Personally, I usually used 1) with mix results but I am in doubt whether 1) is better than 4). Tilting the flash with no bounce surfaces wastes a lot of light but I think it send lights in a more downward direction, which avoids shadows. However, I’ve seen many reporters that use 4)<br>

I will appreciate your comments. Please let me tell you that I don’t like bigger diffusers such as Lightdome, because they are very distracting for people.. Usually they are intimidated enough with an SRL camera system… they call people's attentions too much.<br>

Thank you.</p>

<p>Item #1 is the best, with the white card straight up (although I'm not sure what you mean about tilting the flash as if it were a roof). This is because a) even though you aren't getting strong bounce from the flash's beam, it does contribute to overall reflectancy, and b) you aren't really wasting flash power much as the redirect off the card contributes quite a bit to the flash exposure. You do get harder shadows than just bounce, though, but better than direct flash, with or without a diffuser.</p>

<p>I use the flash head one click more forward than 90 degrees (straight up). I use a Demb Diffuser.</p>

<p>Ironically, during lunch I saw a guy doing #2 during a group portrait shoot on some stairs outside, and was digusted. Not only was the light too small for a group, but 90% of the light is going into the clouds-- guessing not a lot is getting bounced back to earth.</p>

<p>The stofen diffusers you mentioned also work by sending out omnidirection light and bouncing off of neary by walls, roof, and ground. You may get some fill from the ground, like a half clam reflector set up, but you are probably just wasting power for the most part.</p>

<p>They have a small softbox (8"?) to put over a flash, which is slightly better than nothing. I personally would use direct flash for most situations and set it to a gentle fill setting. I'm a strobe and big modifier guy, so I've not had to McGuyver through these situations very often though. My technique may not be the best, but a 2" wide card using your option #2 is useless.</p>

How about <a href="http://www.juergenspecht.com/truestories/?number=1&storypage=2">this</a>?

<p>There's really no point in pointing the flash anywhere except straight ahead, if you've got nothing to bounce off of. Diffusers that scatter the light in other directions certainly won't help either.</p>

<p>If some sort of big, attention-grabbing flash diffuser isn't your thing, then I think the ideal solution to this is to use a camera that can see in the dark (Nikon D3/D700, Canon 5DII). The second best solution is to mount flashes strategically around the room, and trigger them remotely.</p>

<p>Also, #4 is used by press photographers because they are probably doing high ISO/flash as fill only.</p>

<p>I actually think #3 is ok as well, provided the flash is offset by a bracket. I often use Metz handlemount 45CL which gives a nice specular light, no red eye and the shadows in the right place. For on camera flash #4. I use a Gary Fong lightsphere.</p>

<p>5) Two speedlights - one handheld key light and one on-camera fill.</p>

<p>I think it's clear that no two situations are the same! Typically, for me indoors, I tend to use a bounce card (ABBC or Demb). The angle of which is determined by my bounce surface. You have to have some VERY high ceilings to not get any bounce going. So, if the surface is deemed too far away (15' or more), I will simply angle the flash/bounce card more to my subject. If I am doing run and gun shooting, inside & outside- I simply put the dome on, tilted @ 45 degrees. </p>

<p><em>Ironically, during lunch I saw a guy doing #2 during a group portrait shoot on some stairs outside,</em></p>

<p>Very unsanitary<em>.</em></p>

<p>C'mon, don't tell me I'm the only that sees the humor in that statement.<em><br /> </em></p>

<p>Jim, I laughed out loud when I read the guy was doing #2 during the group portrait, also!!! I thought it was very unprofessional but, evidently, when ya gotta go, ya gotta go! (We do need help!)<br>

Hey David, thanks for the link to the flash helmet. I'm going to make one! That guy thinks like me...scary!<br>

On a serious note, can you build a ceiling out of foam core? Grab a couple of used Bogen Boom stands, a couple of superclamps, brass nipples (watch it Jim!) and a couple of Bogen Spring Clamps and you can create your own ceiling or uber bounce surface. Not sure how portable it needs to be but it's a thought.<br>

I have to say this is the most entertaining thread I've read this morning. I have to go to see my therapist now. Then nap nap time!</p>