Vulcanite Recovering Kits/Service?

<p>Has anyone replaced their Leica M body Vulcanite using one of <a href="http://www.cameraleather.com/">Cameraleather.com's</a> recovering kits? What was the quality of the product, and how difficult was the proceedure?</p>

<p>Also, has anyone sent Cameraleather.com their Leica M backdoor for the <a href="http://www.cameraleather.com/leica_m/recovering/">Door Refinishing service</a>? How did it come out? Thanks.</p>

<p>Not a Leica, but I have had Cameraleather custom do one camera for me, and did my own recover using their pre-cut leather (Red Kid, in my case) on a Exakta. I was pleased with the results in both cases. If you follow the instructions it is easy to do.</p>

<p>Thanks, JDM. </p>

<p>How careful was Cameraleather with the cosmetics of the camera you sent in for recovering? After getting it back, did you notice any marks on the body that were not there before you sent it in?</p>

<p>No, not a bit.<br /> It was an ancient Praktiflex for which they had no template, so I sent in the leatherette that had come off and the cleaned camera (the leatherette was barely attached when I got the camera). They had to make a template and attach the new covering and it came out beautifully. They returned the old leatherette to me (it was very brittle) and I got every thing back quickly and intact. The Exakta I did myself was actually more complicated, but worked fine following their instructions.<br /> The pictures show as it was when I sent it in and the result as I got it back.</p><div></div>

<p>Yes, Lord of the Rings. Sometimes Ring mania and our camera mania have much in common.</p>

<p>I recovered an Olympus 35 RC with cobalt blue kid leather from cameraleather.com. The job was simple and the results were great. I'd post a photo but can't find one at the moment.</p>

 

<p>Loved dealing with cameraleather.com. I'm tempted to re-cover my m3 from them...<br>

here is my Yashica 14e.. red leather.. used their 'purell' method to place the leather.. worked amazingly well.<img src="http://joelaron.com/public/cameras/14e_redleather.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>Joel,</p>

<p>That camera looks great. Using the Purell method, what keeps the material from popping up when you go around corners? How well does the covering lay flat in areas where the edge of the covering meets the camera body?</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Hi Robert..<br>

You brush on (very lightly) the Purell to teh camera body... and you have to work fast, cause it's slowly drying up.. the sticky back of the leather is so strong, that as soon as you stick it to the camera body.. it's goin to stick.. to the purell gives you about a 2 minutes to massage the leather into place..After all of the leather was in place, I rubbed it perfectly flat before all the purell dried. soon as the purell dries.. your done. Then I left the camera to cure for about a day.<br>

extra added perk.. when you hold the camera up to take a shot, you no longer smell an old camera... you smell italian leather. ;)</p>

I used Morgan's vulcanite equivalent on my M3. Did the job myself: used the chemical to remove the old stuff, applied the

new one (which was easy and well cut), and it was ready to go right away. It's still on the camera.

 

I have an M4-2 that I'd like to recover too... but needs a CLA first. I'll get the covering from Cameraleather, not off the

auction site.

<p>Yes, the point of the Purell is that it dries without leaving any significant residue, but dries just slowly enough to give you a little bit of time to get it right where you want it.<br>

(if you are reading this and have no idea what the talk about Purell is all about, go to Cameraleather's web site and look at their instructions)</p>

<p>How about the Leica M back-door refinishing service Cameraleather offers? Can anyone give me feedback about their experience?</p>

<p>Morgan Sparks is a very good craftsperson. He did a splendid job on my Zeiss Ikon ZM and RD-1s.</p>

<p>Don't forget CRR Luton here in the UK can re-cover Leicas with vulcanite using the original process. </p>

<p>I</p>

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