What Camera Should I Buy?

<p>I am new to photography, but I would like to be able to take different types of shots than my current digital camera offers. I have recently been looking into buying a Lomographic camera as I really like the different effects that one can create with them. <br />I am not sure which camera I should look into buying...I have got two options:<br>

I am considering buying the <a href="http://shop.lomography.com/shop/main.php?cat=Lomographic_Cameras&pro=dtr" target="_blank">Diana+</a> because it seems relatively easy to use, and its only $50. You can remove the lense to create pinhole shots, too. My only concern about this camera is that it uses 120 film, which I am not sure whether it would be easy to find, or if the drugstores could develop it. There are adaptors for 35mm film on ebay, but I am afraid I would not be able to install it easily. <br>

I am also considering the <a href="http://shop.lomography.com/shop/main.php?cat=Lomographic_Cameras&pro=dtr" target="_blank">Holga</a>, which can basically do the same as the Diana+, but it has a flash and a colorsplash option. The one I am considering uses 120mm film, but there are ones that use 35mm, which are cheaper, although they do not have the colorsplash option. It is $75.<br>

So let me know what you think I should do. If there are others on that site, or any other better film cameras that you think I should start off with, let me know cause I want some advice!</p>

<p>I have not used the cameras you are thinking of, but sometimes they can be "iffy" on the mechanical reliability. Usually, it's those mechanical problems which are part of making the artsy effects. Since that's the case, I really don't know if they would be the best choice for a photography beginner. Sometimes, with film photography, the truth is, the rate of success for beginners can be a little low. If the camera is quirky on the mechanical quality, that can kind of complicate matters. Those complications might increase frustration more than they might promote enjoyment.</p>

<p>I would really hesitate to recommend those as a first camera option, because I predict mechanical trouble. I've been making pictures for years; I spent the past few days tinkering with developers and emulsions made from scratch. Every now and then I will try something like this, but it is always nice to get back to the "normal" settings of my good ole reliable cameras, used according to the manufacturer's directions. </p>

<p>That said, there are many people who seem to enjoy the little Holga. I bet you might enjoy the basic one. </p>

<p>I would encourage you, though, to look around for good used cameras if you are more into the idea of photography. I like using the Pentax K1000. It's an all-manual film camera, but it is more expensive than the Holga. However, that K1000 will probably last for about another 20 years without any serious problems (knock on wood). </p>

<p>Alternatively, there really is nothing wrong with a 35mm instamatic camera. They would probably be similar in construction to, but more reliable than a Holga, and will probably cost even less. I bet if you hunt around some, you could find one for under $20. Anything you could do to a Holga to modify it could probably also be done to such a camera. </p>

<p>Consider looking over some online places like Adorama, B&H and (one of my favorite used suppliers) KEH.com</p>

<p>This might give you a better feel for beginner cameras. I'd promote an interest in spending closer to $200. If you like 120mm, I would recommend a Yashicamat 124G and a developing tank and a changing bag. That way, you could also get ready to learn how to develop your own film (scan it in or get someone else to print), and maybe consider either a darkroom or moving on to digital equipment. </p>

<p>I don't want to discourage you because I want you to proceed with confidence, but I think you might be happier with a camera that has a stronger chassis than the Holgas or Dianas appear to have. A sturdier camera can also be a lot of fun, and it will usually last for many years. Good luck. J.</p>

<p>Used 35mm SLR's are really going at bargain prices these day. The Pentax K1000, as John suggested, is a good choice as well as any of the Minolta SRT series, Olympus OM-1, or even one of the older Pentax Spotmatics. Although these classics are getting old, you stand a better chance of getting one in good condition from a reputable vendor like KEH. If you prefer something not quite so old (but with more plastic and less metal) there is the Ricoh KRII Super, Yashica FX-3 Super 2000, Nikon FM10, Olympus SP2000, and several others. I have named cameras with mechanical shutters so if the batteries die, you can still take pictures. If you want some automation with manual override, then I would also recommend the Pentax ME Super, Nikon FE, Minolta X-700, Canon AL-1, Olympus OM-2N.<br>

If you do decide to go with 120, consider the Yashicamat twin lens reflexes. Probably the most affordable TLR of good quality. The Rolleiflexes. Rolleicords, Minolta Autocords are excellent TLR;s but more expensive than the Yashicamat. Another possibilty is a used folder. Check out some post from other PN members in the classic forum and read up on the Zeiss Ikon 120 folders as well as a few others. If you want to spend less and are not too concerned about having fast, sharp glass, look into the cheaper folders such as the Ansco Viking. It has an f6.3 lens and shutter speeds to 1/200 second.</p>

<p>Alicia, you'll probably get mostly well-meaning replies here (Beginner Forum) from folks who don't grok the appeal of the Holga, Diana, Lomo and similar cameras and will try to steer you toward a technically "better" camera. So I'm going to move this thread to the <a href="../alternative-cameras-forum/"><strong>Alternative Cameras & Lenses Forum</strong> </a> where your question has a better chance of replies from folks who understand the nature of your question.</p>

<p>FWIW, I've tried to duplicate the familiar effects of cameras like the Lomo, Diana and Holga using affordable used cameras such as Agfa 6x6 folders, low-end Yashica TLRs and '70s era P&S 35mm cameras. None of those cameras - which have well corrected optics - quite duplicate the effects desired by fans of the Lomo, Diana and Holga, such as vignetting, spherical aberration, flare and other optical quirks reviled by purists but embraced by fans.</p>

<p>They are all fun, 120 film is a little harder to come by, you may have to mail order it, and hunt around for a lab that will process it for you. Most can at least send it out. the 35mm holga doesn't (imho) have as much charm as it's bigger cousins, but is easier to develop and print. I personally use a holga, i fear getting the diana because there are just too many awesome accessories to purchase for it, i know me and i wouldn't be happy with just the camera. that might be a consideration for you. My best bit of advice would be buy the cheapest holga you can find first, use it for a while, see if you love it, then upgrade from there if you feel the need. the best part about all these cameras is the price makes it far less risky than buying a 1200 dollar digital slr and then realizing 6 months down the road that it's not right for you. don't forget too, that all lomo related cameras are meant to be fun! </p>

<p>If you want a 35mm Holga, for about $2 you should be able to pick up a camera from Goodwill that basically has all the same functions. To get "colorsplash" just put colored celophane over the flash. There are literally thousands and thousands of 35mm cameras produced in the 1980s and 1990s that are just like the Holga in terms of having one shutter speed and one or two aperture settings and not much focus control. To use these cameras successfully you have to match the film to the lighting conditions.... so 100 or 200 speed film for daylight, 400 speed film for overcast, 800 speed film indoors etc. 1HR photo labs can handle 35mm film for very cheap, 120 film is very very expensive to have processed which is really the biggest downside.</p>

<p>Regarding film processing: Most local Walmarts will ship out 120 film to Fuji, and you'll have it back in 1-2 weeks! And, the best part, it's around $2 to develop a roll of colour film, with 4x4 prints. Black and white with 4x4 prints is roughly $3.20.</p>

<p>So there's an option, if you live in the States.</p>

<p>Jeez Jake, I had no idea... I hate Walmart with a passion but that is an amazing price.</p>

<p>Patrick: It's true! I just picked up two rolls of black+white for ~$6.50.</p>

<p>Ya Patrick my Local Wally World sends out my 220 Slide film and a week later I pick it up rolled in a cardboard tube in a plastic sleave for under $6.00 and that is local Tax included. 120 is the same price go figure.</p>

<p>A view camera is fundamentally a light-tight box with a slot at one end for a lens and a slot at the other for the film. You compose and focus your image on a groundglass, then displace the glass with a sheet of film four by five inches in size. That's right, the negative from a view camera is about the same size as a proof print that you get back from a 1-Hour lab.<br>

<a href="http://www.photo.net/photo/pcd4228/wellesley-chapel-7.4.jpg"></a> Another advantage of having used a view camera is that it gives you an understanding of perspective. With a view camera, the lens and film aren't fixed parallel to each other. This opens up a huge range of creative opportunities that are unavailable to most users of 35mm and medium format gear. For example, if you want to take a photo of a building with a Nikon, you have to point the camera up towards the sky. You will then be projecting the vertical exterior of the building onto the angled film surface. The lines of the building will converge towards the top of the frame. With a view camera, you <em>shift</em> the lens up and/or the film down. The film is now "looking up" at the building through the lens, but the film is still parallel to the building exterior so lines don't converge <a href="http://www.paintyourlife.com">anniversary gifts</a></p>

<p>A view camera is fundamentally a light-tight box with a slot at one end for a lens and a slot at the other for the film. You compose and focus your image on a groundglass, then displace the glass with a sheet of film four by five inches in size. That's right, the negative from a view camera is about the same size as a proof print that you get back from a 1-Hour lab. I tried several times to teach a very intelligent friend how to use my Nikon 8008. Despite the camera's marvelous user interface and available automation, she simply couldn't remember what all the different controls were for. However, she had no trouble understanding my SINAR monorail view camera, an enormous contraption that intimidates 99% of experienced amateurs. That's because a view camera's controls are simple, direct, and physical. Another advantage of having used a view camera is that it gives you an understanding of perspective. With a view camera, the lens and film aren't fixed parallel to each other. This opens up a huge range of creative opportunities that are unavailable to most users of 35mm and medium format gear. For example, if you want to take a photo of a building with a Nikon, you have to point the camera up towards the sky. You will then be projecting the vertical exterior of the building onto the angled film surface. The lines of the building will converge towards the top of the frame. With a view camera, you shift the lens up and/or the film down. The film is now "looking up" at the building through the lens, but the film is still parallel to the building exterior so lines don't converge <a href=" http://www.paintyourlife.com">anniversary gifts</a></p>

<p>I have been using holgas for years and, more recently, the Diana. I HIGHLY recommend these cameras. I've always found cheap Holgas for around $20 (don't get the urban outfitters kind- comes with a lot of unnecessary crap). I decided to buy a new Diana because it comes with several extra features not available in an old Diana off ebay. I bought it with the flash because it is compatible on other cameras and a nice casual lightweight flash suitable for my Holgas. I do use my Diana more often because you don't have to tape it up for every roll of film like the Holgas.<br>

I would not use a 35mm converter for either of these cameras because one of the benefits is the larger 120film. If you don't have a lab that does 120, just buy a cheapo 35mm plastic camera. It's the plastic lens you're after.<br>

Part of why I love these cameras is how unassuming they are. If people even notice they're cameras, they don't take them very seriously. Which is nice for candid shots. They are lightweight and cheap so you're more likely to just bring them along and less scared of them breaking or getting stolen. You also get beautiful vignetting and the less common square format. And they are just plain fun. Which is exactly what photography should be.</p>

<p>Alternatively, make your own cameras from toy or junk cameras from eBay (very cheap lot sales) and lenses cut from toy magnifying glasses, cheap reading specs, etc.</p>

<p>It's worthwhile to search each camera you're considering on flickr and just see dozens or hundreds of examples of what it's going to look like. You have to like the look.<br>

As others have said, it's easy to find and process 120, although you'll be the one person at your local wal-mart dropping off 120. It's just the money thing. You'll be taking fewer shots and that can be limiting. The beauty of a dslr is just banging off countless thousands of photographs.<br>

As far as diana, lomo... alternately you could get a (better) yashica and if you want the murky look, get murky film...</p>