commercial photographer in Posted February 5, 2009 Share Posted February 5, 2009 <p>My passion in photography is nature and wildlife but around here the only wildlife is in a zoo. Does anyone have any tips on how to photograph the zoo, but make the photos POP? Is there a way to capture an image but not blatanly making it look like a "Zoo" picture?</p> <p> </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaeljlawson Posted February 5, 2009 Share Posted February 5, 2009 <p>Hopefully your zoo has open air exibits and you don't have to shoot through to many fences or scratched glass. Biggest thing I think is to be mindful of your backgrounds. Close up shots like the Leopard and Gorilla that I have make it easier. Shots with more environment in them are trickier. The wolf and the giraffes in my Brookfield Zoo section aren't to bad, but some of the monkeys and the parrot where you can see the feeding trays are more obvious. Plants always look more natural to me than the fake rock walls. Take your time to find the right angle for the best background. Moving animals in shadows are difficult if you can't use flash, so I use a monopod to help with motion (I don't have IS lenses) and I don't think Tripods are allowed at some locations. Animals have personalities, so try to capture them. Facial expressions or a head turned can make a big difference. If they are lying around sleeping, move on and come back later (Unless that's the story you are trying to convey). Hope that helps to start.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDMvW Posted February 5, 2009 Share Posted February 5, 2009 <p>Sometimes the light can be pretty iffy, and this is where IS can be extremely helpful. The gorillas at Brookfield Zoo were taken with the EF-S 17-85mm IS lens, and I was pleased with the result. This was handheld on a gray winter day at 1/30 sec f/5.6 at 55mm.</p><div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alex_lofquist Posted February 5, 2009 Share Posted February 5, 2009 <p>The Brookfield Zoo (near Chicago), previously mentioned, is a great place for a natural setting of animals. They even have special times for photographers (usually early in the AM) where you can get to things not often seen by the general public. Tripods are allowed at outdoor exhibits as long as you don't get in the way of everyone else. I never used one inside and don't know if there are any restrictions there. The best lenses are 70-200mm and 300mm for most situations. These enable you to home in on the subject and make it "pop"!</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDMvW Posted February 5, 2009 Share Posted February 5, 2009 <p>I'll add that zoos are especially good for giving you the opportunity to get in close for "portraits" that would be very difficult in the wild. The ability to get in close will allow a shallower depth of field, and cropping in the camera to eliminate the more obvious "Zoo" features, especially in older, usually smaller cages as opposed to habitats. You can get head and shoulder shots that no one could tell were from a zoo instead of really close up in the wild.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bruce_margolis Posted February 5, 2009 Share Posted February 5, 2009 <p>I don't think you make photos POP at a zoo any differently than anywhere else. The same rules apply.</p> <p>Most zoos offer memberships as a way to increase revenue. If your zoo has that, then join in the fun. One thing that may help is if you return somewhat frequently. That way the personnel get to know you better and are more likely to help you get some of those special photos. And always watch your backgrounds and check the direction of the light.</p> <p>Also, ask about opportunities for a group of photographers, like maybe a camera club. Someone with experience could lead a photo frenzy and everyone learns and has fun. <br> When I go to the zoo, it is always right when they open, before the crowds show up. That gives me some quiet time with the animals. Even so, many shots are obviously from the zoo because of either glass reflection or the telltale signs of a chain link fence. Definitely not the challenge of animals in the wild but it is still fun.</p> <div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertbody Posted February 6, 2009 Share Posted February 6, 2009 <p><img src="http://www.robertbody.com/animals08/images/2008-08-07-zoo-tiger-11305.jpg" alt="" width="750" height="500" /><br> 500mm f/4 lens, your face on the fence, excluding anything man-made</p> <p>a bit of cropping might be needed:</p> <p><img src="http://www.robertbody.com/animals08/images/2008-07-24-zoo-puma-40d_7848.jpg" alt="" width="750" height="500" /><br> Go in the morning, as soon as they open<br> <img src="http://www.robertbody.com/animals08/images/2008-08-01-zoo-orangutan-19862.jpg" alt="" width="750" height="500" /><br> sometimes 500mm f/4 might be too long.... but not usually :-)<br> <img src="http://www.robertbody.com/animals08/images/2008-07-24-zoo-baboon-40d_0240.jpg" alt="" width="750" height="500" /><br> here are more of my Zoo Pictures from July: <a href="http://www.robertbody.com/answers/search.php?matchWhat=phoenix+zoo+2008">Phoenix Zoo 2008</a></p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertbody Posted February 6, 2009 Share Posted February 6, 2009 <p>I forgot to say that you should rent a Canon 500mm f/4 [and 40D if you don't use Canon], and if they don't have it locally, get it by mail. There are some other complications involved like needing a good tripod, and ballhead will do [Arca Swiss style] for this lens [but not for bigger lenses], even though Wimberley head is the right way to go.<br> That's the secret, high quality fast focusing shallow depth of field lens, possibly a flash to give the photo a bit of a spark, in the eyes probably. None of my photos in the link were with flash, but if i take some again, i would want to use a flash and flash extender [better Beamer... $40 'magnifying glass'].<br> It's not cheap. That $6000 puppy rents for $100/day or around $260-$295 for week, but that's the right way to do it :-).</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertbody Posted February 6, 2009 Share Posted February 6, 2009 <p>It really depends on the layout of the zoo, some are awful, too far, GLASS [evil reflecting glass].<br> 500mm f/4 will make a fence disappear<br> <img src="http://www.robertbody.com/animals08/images/2008-07-25-zoo-eagle-40d_8971.jpg" alt="" width="750" height="500" /><br> (if you are closer to the fence than the fence is to the subject, and subject within 30ft or so from you... experiment. this is a chain link fence that becomes "transparent"... sometimes. Sometimes because once you get sunlight on the fence, it will show)<br> Go often...... like 7 mornings in a row with that lens...... definately get a flash since you can't count on sunny days like i did in July... in Phoenix. 86 F at 5am, can't beat that.<br> <img src="http://www.robertbody.com/animals08/images/2008-08-10-zoo-rhino-40d_13874.jpg" alt="" width="750" height="500" /><br> This Rhino photo is from 7:17am, the sun's first rays are hitting it, even though at 6am the sun would hit it in the open desert<br> <img src="http://www.robertbody.com/animals08/images/2008-06-30-rip-corm-16202.jpg" alt="" width="750" height="500" /><br> 6:16am Cormorant [not at the Zoo]</p> <p>Technique and little touches can go a long way -- going often, early, spending 20minutes with an animal,<br> in addition to the big gun 500mm f/4..... possibly even with 1.4X teleconverter..... bracketing exposure if you're unsure. And taking 1,000 pictures in a day, some things happen for a second or less and that's it, no repeats... and no warnings to begin with<br> <img src="http://www.robertbody.com/animals08/images/2008-08-07-zoo-tiger-11416.jpg" alt="" width="750" height="500" /></p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akajohndoe Posted February 7, 2009 Share Posted February 7, 2009 As sated, be mindful of the background. Also, not really specific to zoo pictures, but the eyes can really make or break the picture. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdpufallphotography Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 <p>I made a quick guide on shooting zoos on another forum, maybe you'll find it helpful. Also you may be mistaken when it comes to animals in your area. Look around on-line and find out where the greatest animal populations are in your area, it can make the difference seeing nothing for trip after to trip to nearly stepping on them every quarter mile.</p> <p><img src="http://www.rdpufallphotography.com/images/Shooting%20Zoos%20copy.png" alt="" /></p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seancrane Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 <p>Another nice thing about shooting in a zoo is that it's great practice for when you are in the wild because you really learn how to be aware of the whole frame. In a zoo you're constantly checking all edges of the frame for possible man-made distractions, much like you should always be checking for any kind of background distractions. You also learn to rely on shallow depth of field to blur out any unnatural background and really simplify your composition. When you have a great background in the wild that really shows the animals environment, by all means show it (to me these are the best kind of wildlife shots) but more often than not you're dealing with distracting branches, etc. Shoot often enough in zoos and it'll make you better for when you're really out there. Attached is a shot of a wolf I took in a drive through zoo called Bear Country U.S.A. in South Dakota. Behind the wolf there were some fence posts and other distractions which I blurred out of the scene and cropped around.<br> <img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/8590640-md.jpg" alt="" width="679" height="451" /></p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joseph_smith3 Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 <p>My local zoo has early openings on some Saturdays for members only. Go early when the animals are active and the light is good. Use long lenses at wide openings to control backgrounds. And control backgrounds. And use fill flash properly when needed. Joe Smith </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ella_swanson Posted February 19, 2009 Share Posted February 19, 2009 <p>Make friends with the people at the zoo. E-mail their PR and see if they need any photos. I did on a whim and got myself a summer internship where I was able to go inside tons of exhibits and get better shots.</p> <p>I used a 200-500mm lens for most of these. Widest it's only 5 so my ISO is usually pretty high, but the freedom of being able to zoom out quickly comes in handy with primates because they usually come right up to the glass.</p> <p>Make sure you have a really wide aperture if you shoot any animals in front of those cheesy murals. Some zoos are just much better with their exhibits though. I hate most of the DC zoos inside exhibits because they just look tacky to me but the Bronx zoo has amazing inside exhibits.</p> <p>You might look insane but a bottle of windex might save you if there are tons of finger prints on the glass from kids pressing up to it.<br> <img src="http://fc96.deviantart.com/fs32/f/2008/218/5/7/Bald_Eagle__by_PuffDragon.jpg" alt="" width="368" height="550" /><br> <img src="http://fc62.deviantart.com/fs32/f/2008/224/f/1/Lemur_IX__by_PuffDragon.jpg" alt="" width="368" height="552" /><br> <img src="http://fc17.deviantart.com/fs38/f/2008/314/0/a/Meerkat__by_PuffDragon.jpg" alt="" width="368" height="552" /><br> <img src="http://fc17.deviantart.com/fs28/f/2008/106/1/4/Gorilla__by_PuffDragon.jpg" alt="" width="368" height="550" /><br> (<em>I shot the last two from outside the exhibits)</em></p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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