repair a iiif shutter with plasti dip

<p>Hello everybody,<br>

I bought a Leica IIIf RD-SF just to find out, after I had shot my first couple of films, that it had plenty of pinholes in the shutter (at least that is my diagnosis based on answers I got on this forum and other sources) that made all of my pictures white dotted. After a search in the net I got to the conclusion that the best way to overcome this problem, before having the shutter curtains replaced (at the expense of no less than 260 euros), is to try to cover the holes with plastidip. I would like to know from those of you you've used this liquid tape, if you need to dilute it, how much and with what.<br>

Thanks very much for your help<br>

Andrea</p><div></div>

<p>Hi Andrea, I had some light-leak problems with a similar Canon shutter. To find the holes, I took it out in the sun without a lens, and I progressively ran film through it exposing both of the shutters to light. Once I assessed both shutters, I proceded to patch the curtains with the contact cement you use to glue patches to bicycle tubes. I used a little artist's brush to apply it, and I mixed in a little black paint. I took a few coats to cover all the holes. Once finished, this camera was more light tight than any other Leica I had. Good luck.</p>

<p>They also make something called Liquid Electrical tape. You should be able to find it on the auction site. I had a Fed 2 that had the same problem and I used a similar application to the Liquid Electrical tape, but I put it on too thickly. The light leaks were fixed but the shutter would hang up because it was too thick at the patch job, so easy does it.</p>

<p>thank you both guys, the liquid electrical tape steve talks about is actually the plasti dip I bought, and i was also aware of the thickness problem, in fact is so viscous I wouldn't know how to spread it on the shutter without leaving big lumps of the thing on it. that's why i was wondering if anyone knew what to dilute it with and how much...<br>

cheers<br>

andrea</p>

<p>Andrea, does the Plasti Dip you bought have a label stating ingredients? If it does, you should be able to determine a solvent you can use to cut it.</p>

<p>Two makes of liquid Electrical Tape (in the US anyway) provide online MSDS sheets -<br>

Star Brite -<br>

Xylene 14%<br>

Acetone 5%<br>

Methyl Ethly Ketone (2-Butanone) 40%</p>

<p>Red Lion Research -<br>

Methyl Benzene 13%<br>

Dichloromethane 13%<br>

2-Butanone 37%</p>

<p>Looks like methyl ethyl ketone ( also called 2-butanone ) is the solvent of choice. It's commonly called M.E.K. Should work fine but avoid getting this on plastic, it'll mar the surface and soften it a bit. This is very similar to the formula for the cement for PVC pipe.</p>

<p>Jim M.</p>

<p>Andrea,<br>

I've used liquid tape a couple times to repair curtains, diluted to at least half of what it is out of the can with toluol. Two thin coats is better than one thick one, filling in the holes rather than blocking them with a blob, will leave the curtain still flat and flexible.<br>

Fred</p>

<p >Letting a camera technician chime in; </p>

<p >I’m just laughing out loud as to how “penny wise and pound foolish” all of this “tool dip” on the curtain talk is. In lieu of a cheap curtain replacement, you’re willing to apply a messy and somewhat expensive substance on to what is <strong>obviously</strong> a spent curtain. This service is offered by Youxin Ye for $110 (wye7@yahoo.com in Canton, MA USA). </p>

<p >Using the "goop" you’ll cause a “tampered” moniker to be branded to your future camera repair. We techs pass around with amusement such botched repair attempts, not to mention the extra charge for undoing the folly. I let Mr.Ye replace my own If & IIIf curtains just because he was so cheap.</p>

<p >The “goop” technique spoken of here is better used as a repair for a <strong>burn hole</strong> or two, not <strong>FULLY</strong> rotted rubberized silk curtains like Andrea’s. </p>

<p > </p>

<p >A better technique to employ for burn holes; use a hole punch on some fresh curtain material to <strong>create</strong> a patch and then a little dab of rubber cement. Keeping in mind that you always need to re-balance the 1^st & 2^nd curtains after ANY repair to a shutter. </p>

<p > </p>

<p >This thread is a perfect example of the adage “A little bit of knowledge is dangerous”…</p>

<p>In the speed graphic days shoe polish was used.<br>

Patching holes in tents and cloth shutters and blue jeans is ancient too.<br>

With a shutter too much rubber goop/patch makes the shutter curtain not so willing to go around a roller; this has been known before any of us were born.<br>

A major regooping makes a focal plane shutter's cloth not smooth; one can get weird shutter speeds.<br>

In a repair chap has never heard of this temp technique before RUN; they have not been around awhile. Its like if a master seamstress has never heard of patching bluejeans; or an iron on patch.<br>

Like a pair of pants at some point one needs another better pair; or a new pair; ie patching doesnt work anymore. With a shutter a huge rubber paint job makers the shutter wonky if its too stiff. Even with clothes a iron on patch tends to come off after awhile if a fold is placed where a patch is.</p>

<p>thanks everybody for your advice. Will keep you informed on the outcome<br>

cheers<br>

Andrea</p>