Help - I just bought a 4X5 from eBay

<p>Then, get a tripod block! They are available. Just like the rail, bellows and lensboards.</p>

<p>"How much is your time worth? Do what Donald Bryant said, and put the camera on ebay for parts. Someone can probably use it, and you will be doing them a favor. "<br>

For a beginner's camera it's not bad. It looks clean and easy to learn. Why buy a rolls royce if you don't even know how to drive a chevy. If I can't find a mounting block, then I might try to sell it but, it should be fairly easy to find.</p>

<p>Congratulations! That is cool. I have a Calumet 4x5" and a 8x10".</p>

<p>I just wanted to remind you that the great thing about large format is that you do not need a darkroom to make beautiful prints. Just sunlight or other source of UV. I personally like to make Cyanotypes, Salt prints, Kallitypes and Palladium. I've never had the room, the money or the access to a darkroom and alternative printing is great.</p>

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<p>I think Frank M is on the right track, considering you want to keep it. I looked at my calumet tripod block tonight, I could make one out of hardwood, if you or a friend have access to a scroll saw or band saw, you could do it. A drill press would be handy for maing holes for threaded inserts. Like Frank says, would be two pieces, bolt together with the four screws or use threaded inserts for more of a rolls royce. But honestly, in 19 years of using my calumet monorail, dont think ive ever moved the tripod block! Considering the price you paid, if you're using a bogen tripod with a hex or other quick release, you could perhaps mount the tripod qr plate directly to the rail in a permanent fashion via screws or welding, altho i am a wood not metal worker. I don't think a block is going to be easy to find, other than the new one. You'd need to purposely take it off,....did the seller ever respond? My guess is it's probably in a box somewhere since the last person to use it prob. wasnt familiar with 4x5. When you love 4x5 in 6 months then u can upgrade to arca swiss and won't need a tripod block ;=}</p>

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<p>I agree with W.T. Don't give up on the camera. Also, like J. D.said, you can also do some of the old processes. (Just for a change of pace.) I've done Salt paper, Kallitypes, Cyanotypes and my favorite, Carbons. Also, try gum -bichromate, bromoil, where you use ink with a brush. These are just suggestions, but the main point is not to give up with the Cambo. Many pros have used it.</p>

<p>Harry, if you do want to try the old procsses. Then,click on my name and look at the blueish photo at the bottom. That is a Cyanotype.</p>

<p>I would search for a local machinist to build a mounting block. I never cease to be amazed at the inability or unwillingness of people to recognize what can be accomplished by a reasonably skilled craftsman in a simple shop with a few tools.<br>

Have you ever considered how many things you use in everyday life are the invention of tinkerers working in a shed behind the house? The airplane was the invention of two brothers who sold bicycles. The engine they used to power the "Kitty Hawk" was built with a drill press by their mechanic, Charlie Taylor. Read this - <a href="http://safetycenter.navy.mil/media/gallery/nostalgia/1stAvnMech_charles_taylor_page2.htm">http://safetycenter.navy.mil/media/gallery/nostalgia/1stAvnMech_charles_taylor_page2.htm</a><br>

Think about Thomas Edison, Henry Ford, George Eastman, Benjamin Franklin, Marconi, Morse, Goodyear, Hughes, Winchester... the list is endless. The ingenuity of the hands-on craftsman. Get the idea?<br>

You buy things "factory made", but what do you think is happening in that factory? Do you think they have a giant duck in there that "squats" out parts? Maybe a few things are done by robot, but how do you think the robot was made?<br>

I would find a local retired machinist. Take your camera and tripod along and tell him what you need. He might make a block for you, while you are there watching, out of scrap parts. Probably only charge you a few bucks (if at all) but don't be surprised if he asks you a lot of questions about large format photography. Those guys have an insatiable curiosity.<br>

BTW...you'll be needing him again for lens boards and mounting. - Dave</p>

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<p>dave's idea of heading to a machinist is a great one!<br>

i have a swedish 5x7 camera that i found years ago without a tripod mount / baseplate ...<br /> i went to a machinist a few streets over from where i lived, and he custom made a plate for<br /> me out of a piece of scrap.. it took a few measurements and a little bit of time on his lathe.<br>

i am sure a machinest will be able to help you find a solution to your problem .<br /> (and it might be as simple as a block of aluminium with 2 holes, one for your tripod to screw into<br /> and the other for a modified pipe clamp to grab onto your rail ... )</p>

<p>good luck!</p>

<p>Harry, the main point I hope you get from these posts is to not give up on the camera.</p>

<p>I would cut a piece of aluminum plate as the base plate and mount the same size piece of a plastic cutting board on top of it (or use wood) Countersink the nuts into the cutting board and use a tapered machine head that can be countersunk into the aluminum. Use nylock nuts on the machine screws.<br>

Countersink the main head mounting nut into the cutting board (or wood) and make sure it can't turn. Epoxy it one the outside edge if needed. Drill the hole below the nut for the bolt to go though first. If the nut ends up being on the wrong location completely fill the hole with epoxy and drill a new one elsewhere.<br>

Cut two pieces of square aluminum that are the same size as the square tubing of the camera support (rail). These will be mounted with little clearance above and below the camera rail and allow it to slide back and forth. Bolt them between two sturdy pieces of aluminum channel (not angle), that will rise vertically off the baseplate, and use a large knob with a nut inside on one bolt, which will allow you to adjust how hard the aluminum channel pinches the rail. Shim if needed to stop the movement. A stack of washers on the thread end of the bolt will make the tension knob clear the side of the aluminum channel. A square piece of hardwood dowel can be used to fill the inside of the aluminum box where the most pressure will be applied, to stop the aluminum from getting squashed. <br>

The two verticle pieces of aluminum channel can now be bolted onto the baseplate using sturdy aluminum angle. Most big hardware store have a rack of aluminum pieces. Use nylock nuts wherever possible.<br>

All you need is a hacksaw, drill and bits, a file, philips screwdriver and the socket for the nuts. I use a dremel tool to cut holes for countersinking nuts so 1. they don't turn 2, the hole is smaller.<br>

Or just sell the camera : )</p>

<p>...but before you sell it, take the bare naked rail, clamp on that bogen hex plate with a c clamp in the middle of the rail....take it to your local muffler shop (a mom and pop place, not the chain stores with the guys with clean uniforms), and ask the guy if he can weld the two pieces together. </p>

<p>I meant to add or also NAPA auto parts, some of them in my area have a machine shop in back. Good luck. Tom</p>

<p>I was hoping that shiney aluminum would help accentuate the pink knobs which are bound to be a chick magnet, but let's get real everyone. We all know this is a job for haywire and duct tape. It is fun to dream though, even if it is just for a moment, sigh.</p>

<p>I will also admit WT that I love the smell of burning metal in a muffler shop : )</p>

<p>Harry...I've been trying to send you an e-mail and I can't get it to go thru from this site. Please send me your direct e-mail address.</p>

<p>Vick Vickery <a href="mailto:vre25@cableone.net">vre25@cableone.net</a></p>