small strobe choice for off-camera lighting, 100% manual

Having read David Hobby's Strobist blog, I went out and got myself a used Nikon SB-26 flash because of its zoom,

bounce-head, and power controls. (Great flash, by the way!) But I realize he's a Nikon guy using Nikon flashes.

Myself, I'm a Leica guy who operates cameras that would never take advantage of Nikon's special flash features.

I think my SB-26 is really great, but I'd like to supplement that with a strobe that will go down to 1/128th

power. Should I look into buying an SB-800 which seems popular among off-camera lighting enthusiasts (maybe

because they shoot w/Nikon cameras), or are there better and less expensive options for me? My only other strobe

is a Vivitar 285HV which is also pretty good, but it goes down to only 1/16th.

 

Goals: high quality - zoom - bounce (also left/right) - good range of manual power control

Why not use an ND gel to the strobe?

 

They're very cheap and will take your flash down to any level. It's a dirt-cheap option to gain immediate access to less light output from existing equipment without moving the light.

There are ways to cut flash output, as Martin describes, but if you look around, you can find previously-top-of-the-line Metz hotshoe flashes that, on manual mode, will go down to 1/256th power. I have one--a Metz 40MZ1-i. There are others for between $100-150, used. Since you aren't taking advantage of i-TTL, spending the money for an SB-800 is overkill. Metz 45CL-4 and Metz 60CT-4 also go down that low, and they have extra power in relation to a shoemount.

Great answers, both. Many thanks. I do have some ND gels, but, c'mon, I'm a gadgeholic and need something with buttons!

 

Nadine confirms my suspicions regarding the SB-800. I'll do some checking on the Metz models you mention. One thing that concerns me is the trigger voltage of some of the older flashes. Not that I'm planning on connecting to the camera directly, but it's still a concern. Thanks again.

Another one to consider is the Nikon SB80DX which goes down to 1/128th. You can then knock off another stop and a half by

using the built in wide-angle panel... and another 2 stops if you add the Nikon diffusion cap (which comes with it).

 

I have the Metz unit that Nadine mentions. I think Metz flashes might be unique in going down to 1/256th.

 

I'm currently checking out the various secondhand Nikon options as I prefer the build, ergonomics and menu systems of Nikon

compared to Metz.

 

I just got hold of an SB-80DX and I think it has the best features of all the 'obsolete' Nikon Speedlights. Nice features include:

small size, metal foot with easy lock, useful modeling light, flash-ready beep, optical slave, wide power range, simple controls...

HI I think nissin do a cheap flash that may be what you wont

But as i am a vivitar fan i think the ND gels is the way to go and another 285 ,I like the 283 (a bit more

power and can fit more velcro on it but need the varipower module) also the 285 not have a 1/8 power To

get 1/8 power you get the colour filter kit that vivitar did that has a ND so set gun on 1/4 fit ND and you

have 1/8 and of course will give you 1/32

I bet every body is now looking at there 285 to see the missing 1/8 power i know i did when i first read it

Had used it for years and never noticed

Here's a list of trigger voltages of some flashes.

 

http://www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolts.html

 

I'm pretty sure most recent Nikon flashes and Metz flashes have low trigger voltages.

 

I should amend my statement re the Metz 45CL-4. It only has 3 or 4 manual settings, but I think one of them is a pretty low partial power setting.

 

Nice to know about the SB80DX, Eliot.

Nadine, great link, thanks!

<p>

I am also intrigued by the SB-80DX. From the looks of the <a href="http://www.nikonusa.com/pdf/manuals/Speedlights/SB-80DX.pdf">.PDF manual</a>, it looks like a great option.

I'm just testing the SB-80DX out against the SB-24 (one of the flashes popularised by Strobist).

 

The SB-24 is a nice unit (lovely design) but it only goes down to 1/16th power. Initially I thought of using ND gels, but I can't be

bothered messing around with velcro.

 

The SB-24 and SB-80DX have identical max power output and recycle times.

 

One problem I'm having is that whilst I can get the SB-80DX to fire in slave mode (i.e. triggered by another flash), I can only do so

when it is a freestanding unit - as soon as I put it on a lightstand (with bracket and hotshoe) the slave facility switches off.

Does it have a sync port?

Yes, it has a sync port

So, I don't get it--does it shut off slave mode when you have the receiver attached to the sync port?

No, I'm not putting anything into the sync port....

 

The SB-80DX (like the SB-26) has a built in optical trigger. For this to function, you need to select 'wireless' in the custom menu.

Once selected, the SB-80DX can be triggered by another flashgun. However this wireless mode is over-ridden if the flash is sitting in

a hotshoe (in my case, a hotshoe, in an umbrella bracket, on a lightstand. If I stick electrical tape on the surface of the hotshoe, then

wireless functionality is restored.

 

(I'm using radio remotes, so the optical triggers are just a curiosity for me.)

Aha...got it. There are some bracket cold shoes that don't make contact with the contact ball on the hot foot. Then there would be no need to tape the metal parts.

<p>1. buy SB-80 DX<br>

3. go back to making photographs</p>

Any kind of Metz with variable stops are great, they are so powerful... they blow the socks off your whimpy Nikons, Canons, Vivitars.

<p>I wouldn't go so far as to call the Nikons and Vivitars whimpy (I use the SB-28, SB-30 (great for small fill), and Viv 285's), but the Metz 40/45/60's are great flashes and should work well for Tony's requirements. I am intrigued by the SB-80's, though...I should see if I can pick up one on the 'Net for a good price.</p>

<p>It's definitely recommended to put tape on metal hot shoes as not to mess up the flash with a conducting surface.<br>

The SB-800 has a lot of goodies, like the optical slave, but is expensive. If you can find discontinued models with PC sync, flexible adjustments and optical slave mode, just go ahead and get them -- they seem to be popular items after Strobist got popular.<br>

Of course, you can reduce power by zooming to the widest setting and adding a diffuser.</p>