Tony Rowlett Posted December 3, 2008 Share Posted December 3, 2008 Having read David Hobby's Strobist blog, I went out and got myself a used Nikon SB-26 flash because of its zoom, bounce-head, and power controls. (Great flash, by the way!) But I realize he's a Nikon guy using Nikon flashes. Myself, I'm a Leica guy who operates cameras that would never take advantage of Nikon's special flash features. I think my SB-26 is really great, but I'd like to supplement that with a strobe that will go down to 1/128th power. Should I look into buying an SB-800 which seems popular among off-camera lighting enthusiasts (maybe because they shoot w/Nikon cameras), or are there better and less expensive options for me? My only other strobe is a Vivitar 285HV which is also pretty good, but it goes down to only 1/16th. Goals: high quality - zoom - bounce (also left/right) - good range of manual power control Backups? We don’t need no stinking ba #.’ _ , J Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martin_krzywinski Posted December 3, 2008 Share Posted December 3, 2008 Why not use an ND gel to the strobe? They're very cheap and will take your flash down to any level. It's a dirt-cheap option to gain immediate access to less light output from existing equipment without moving the light. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
picturesque Posted December 3, 2008 Share Posted December 3, 2008 There are ways to cut flash output, as Martin describes, but if you look around, you can find previously-top-of-the-line Metz hotshoe flashes that, on manual mode, will go down to 1/256th power. I have one--a Metz 40MZ1-i. There are others for between $100-150, used. Since you aren't taking advantage of i-TTL, spending the money for an SB-800 is overkill. Metz 45CL-4 and Metz 60CT-4 also go down that low, and they have extra power in relation to a shoemount. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Rowlett Posted December 4, 2008 Author Share Posted December 4, 2008 Great answers, both. Many thanks. I do have some ND gels, but, c'mon, I'm a gadgeholic and need something with buttons! Nadine confirms my suspicions regarding the SB-800. I'll do some checking on the Metz models you mention. One thing that concerns me is the trigger voltage of some of the older flashes. Not that I'm planning on connecting to the camera directly, but it's still a concern. Thanks again. Backups? We don’t need no stinking ba #.’ _ , J Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elliot_n Posted December 4, 2008 Share Posted December 4, 2008 Another one to consider is the Nikon SB80DX which goes down to 1/128th. You can then knock off another stop and a half by using the built in wide-angle panel... and another 2 stops if you add the Nikon diffusion cap (which comes with it). I have the Metz unit that Nadine mentions. I think Metz flashes might be unique in going down to 1/256th. I'm currently checking out the various secondhand Nikon options as I prefer the build, ergonomics and menu systems of Nikon compared to Metz. I just got hold of an SB-80DX and I think it has the best features of all the 'obsolete' Nikon Speedlights. Nice features include: small size, metal foot with easy lock, useful modeling light, flash-ready beep, optical slave, wide power range, simple controls... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david_john_appleton Posted December 4, 2008 Share Posted December 4, 2008 HI I think nissin do a cheap flash that may be what you wont But as i am a vivitar fan i think the ND gels is the way to go and another 285 ,I like the 283 (a bit more power and can fit more velcro on it but need the varipower module) also the 285 not have a 1/8 power To get 1/8 power you get the colour filter kit that vivitar did that has a ND so set gun on 1/4 fit ND and you have 1/8 and of course will give you 1/32 I bet every body is now looking at there 285 to see the missing 1/8 power i know i did when i first read it Had used it for years and never noticed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
picturesque Posted December 4, 2008 Share Posted December 4, 2008 Here's a list of trigger voltages of some flashes. http://www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolts.html I'm pretty sure most recent Nikon flashes and Metz flashes have low trigger voltages. I should amend my statement re the Metz 45CL-4. It only has 3 or 4 manual settings, but I think one of them is a pretty low partial power setting. Nice to know about the SB80DX, Eliot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Rowlett Posted December 4, 2008 Author Share Posted December 4, 2008 Nadine, great link, thanks! <p> I am also intrigued by the SB-80DX. From the looks of the <a href="http://www.nikonusa.com/pdf/manuals/Speedlights/SB-80DX.pdf">.PDF manual</a>, it looks like a great option. Backups? We don’t need no stinking ba #.’ _ , J Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elliot_n Posted December 4, 2008 Share Posted December 4, 2008 I'm just testing the SB-80DX out against the SB-24 (one of the flashes popularised by Strobist). The SB-24 is a nice unit (lovely design) but it only goes down to 1/16th power. Initially I thought of using ND gels, but I can't be bothered messing around with velcro. The SB-24 and SB-80DX have identical max power output and recycle times. One problem I'm having is that whilst I can get the SB-80DX to fire in slave mode (i.e. triggered by another flash), I can only do so when it is a freestanding unit - as soon as I put it on a lightstand (with bracket and hotshoe) the slave facility switches off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
picturesque Posted December 4, 2008 Share Posted December 4, 2008 Does it have a sync port? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elliot_n Posted December 4, 2008 Share Posted December 4, 2008 Yes, it has a sync port Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
picturesque Posted December 4, 2008 Share Posted December 4, 2008 So, I don't get it--does it shut off slave mode when you have the receiver attached to the sync port? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elliot_n Posted December 4, 2008 Share Posted December 4, 2008 No, I'm not putting anything into the sync port.... The SB-80DX (like the SB-26) has a built in optical trigger. For this to function, you need to select 'wireless' in the custom menu. Once selected, the SB-80DX can be triggered by another flashgun. However this wireless mode is over-ridden if the flash is sitting in a hotshoe (in my case, a hotshoe, in an umbrella bracket, on a lightstand. If I stick electrical tape on the surface of the hotshoe, then wireless functionality is restored. (I'm using radio remotes, so the optical triggers are just a curiosity for me.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
picturesque Posted December 4, 2008 Share Posted December 4, 2008 Aha...got it. There are some bracket cold shoes that don't make contact with the contact ball on the hot foot. Then there would be no need to tape the metal parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
williamchuttonjr Posted December 6, 2008 Share Posted December 6, 2008 <p>1. buy SB-80 DX<br> 3. go back to making photographs</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benjamin_smith Posted December 7, 2008 Share Posted December 7, 2008 Any kind of Metz with variable stops are great, they are so powerful... they blow the socks off your whimpy Nikons, Canons, Vivitars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
musings Posted December 10, 2008 Share Posted December 10, 2008 <p>I wouldn't go so far as to call the Nikons and Vivitars whimpy (I use the SB-28, SB-30 (great for small fill), and Viv 285's), but the Metz 40/45/60's are great flashes and should work well for Tony's requirements. I am intrigued by the SB-80's, though...I should see if I can pick up one on the 'Net for a good price.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oskar_ojala Posted December 13, 2008 Share Posted December 13, 2008 <p>It's definitely recommended to put tape on metal hot shoes as not to mess up the flash with a conducting surface.<br> The SB-800 has a lot of goodies, like the optical slave, but is expensive. If you can find discontinued models with PC sync, flexible adjustments and optical slave mode, just go ahead and get them -- they seem to be popular items after Strobist got popular.<br> Of course, you can reduce power by zooming to the widest setting and adding a diffuser.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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