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Ciro-Flex History Project


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I've been a Ciro-Flex fan for a long time, as they are exceptionally good cameras for the money. For the most part

there are 3 "best" models, with the full-range Rapax shutter: the Model C, with no flash synch, f/3.5 triplet lens, a

plain groundglass screen and parallax correcting viewfinder; the Model E, with flash synch, f/3.5 triplet lens, and a

Fresnel bright screen finder without parallax correction; and the Model F, with flash synch, f/3.2 Tessar-type lens in

upgraded shutter and the Fresnel screen without parallax correction. The C does not have a model name marked on

it, the E and F are marked on their Depth-of-Field scales.

 

I have just bought a different variation: it's got the upgraded shutter and f/3.2 Raptar lens of the Model F, but it has

the earlier plain groundglass screen with parallax correction. There is no model number marking on the DOF scale,

and the fastest speed marked on the DOF scale is f/3.5. It appears to be a factory job, as the F shutter will not fit on

the focusing panel of any other model, and there is a slight modification to the body to make room for the difference.

It would have been possible for someone to have made these modifications to an earlier body to change out the lens,

but this looks like it's all factory parts.

 

This got me to look at my old magazines: in October 1948, the B and C were the current models. In March 1949,

Ciro was advertising flash synch (models D and E), but still with the parallax correcting finder, and no Model F. I

can't find any Ciro-Flex ads or specs after that date.

 

If you have a Ciro-Flex, please email me the following information: Body Serial Number (inside at the bottom); Model

(if known); shutter name; whether the model name is marked on the DOF scale; whether the camera has flash synch

(a post on the left side above the tripod socket); whether there is a Fresnel lens under the focusing screen (a pattern

of concentric circles in the screen); and whether it has parallax correction. The parallax correction is almost

undetectable in the Ciro: at infinity, there is a shadow (about 1/16" wide) across the rear edge of the screen, which

disappears as you focus closer. You can see the linkage if you look in through the viewing lens, it's a lever next to

the mirror on the right hand side of the camera. Also, any scans of brochures or ads (especially if dated) would be

gratefully appreciated, as would any dated sales receipts.... and if anyone knows a guy who knows a guy who

worked there, or something like that, anecdotes and stories would be terrific. Once I have compiled anything that

seems to indicate a pattern, I will post the results on my website and email them to anyone who asks.

 

Thanks very much! I know, this is a sign of not having enough important stuff to do.....

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Hi Rick - you certainly piqued my curiosity and I thank you for the educational article. I have the model D and it comes with an Alphax shutter and anastigmat lens, I was able to count 2 double reflections and 1 single, I guess this would make it a triplet in my case. Nevertheless it is very clean, performs well and a delight to use. Surely worth the $9 I paid for it.
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Rick,

 

I learned photography on my father's Model F? in the early 60s. I still have it and would use it except that the shutter speeds are unpredictably slow, and a CLA is more than the camera is worth.

 

My Model F? has the following features:

Body Serial No: 93497

Lens: 83mm f/3.2 Wollensak Raptar

Shutter: Rapax with M & F-X flash sync speeds T to 1/400 diaphram 3.2 to f/22

No parallax correction

Plain ground glass (no fresnel rings)

There is no model number on the DOF scale

 

I believe I have the manual somewhere, but it might be a photocopy obtained in the 70s. I'll have to look.

 

Family history indicates that my father bought the camera at Bass Camera in San Francisco in early 1953 for about $80.00.

 

I inherited the camera in the mid-60s and shot everything I could find, developing and printing my own B&W in the garage. In the early 70s it was replaced by a Nikon F and my sister used it into the late 70s, when it was put on the shelf until a few years ago when I retreived it and started learning about Ciro-Flexes here on PN.

 

Thanks for all your help and enthusiasm for these undervalued cameras.

 

<Chas>

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Charles, the timing retard and cocking mechanism are probably just gunked up, which is a minor thing.

I've been doing Wollensak's shutters for a a number of years now and find them very responsive to proper cleaning and minimal lubes.

It's the using of the camera wherein the value can be found.

send me an email...

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I've always considered these a brilliant example of industrial design. Reasonable quality, near-indestructible cameras with some excellent features like the Fresnel viewfinder, that are built of relatively simple stampings and can be constructed by much less skilled and much less well paid labor than it takes to put together a Rolleiflex, Yashicamat, Minoltaflex etc. Good thread.
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Richard -- I have a very nice working Ciroflex E (marked on the DOF scale) and its serial number is

96664, Rapax shutter. No Fresnel screen, and mine came from Craig Nelson a few years ago. Has

worked well when I have used it. My other one is a Ciroflex C (I think) - with Rapax shutter, Volostigmat

lens, serial # 19822, and Detroit, MI on the front.

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I have a model B, witht the Alphax shutter and 85mm, f 3.5 Velostigmat lens.Serial no. is 18949.

You have piqued my interest in this old clunker,so I have tracked down some of the repair sites,

and will be CLAing the Alphax soon. It sticks at all speeds.

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Thanks Lawrence! I assume by the number that your camera was made in Detroit, and does not have the model number marked above the focus knob, would this be correct?

 

You can clean up your shutter speeds without even opening up the shutter: just unscrew the front lens cell with your fingers, look inside and at about the 3:00 - 4:00 position you can see the star wheel and pallet of the timing escapement. Get a bottle of cigarette lighter fluid and a pair of tweezers; lay the camera on its left side with the shutter set at 1/10 second, hold the points of the tweezers together and drip some lighter fluid between the points so that they hold some fluid in the space between them... then touch the point of the tweezers to the star wheel and open them to drop the solvent into the gears. Now immediately fire the shutter 10 times with the camera still lying on its left side. Unless you have an unusually severe case, it's now fixed. It's about a 10 minute job, if it takes you 5 minutes to find the lighter fluid and tweezers.

 

If your aperture operation is stiff, you should clean that too, because the blade pivots are not very robust ... unfortunately that DOES require some disassembly.

 

rick :)=

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  • 3 years later...

<p>I put the lighter fluid in and fired the shutter, but the explosion seemed to make it worse and I burned my hand. I probably should have used a BBQ type long lighter and not my Bic.</p>

<p>not really. Just wanted to say thanks for a great tip. Really like tinkering and DIY. This is a good one. Worth a bump</p>

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