jason_mekeel2 Posted August 17, 2008 Share Posted August 17, 2008 I accidently shot Pan F 50iso at 3200 EI. Is there anything I can do to still get an image? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike dixon Posted August 17, 2008 Share Posted August 17, 2008 Short answer: no. I've shot Pan F at EI 80 in really flat light with a slight push in development, and even with that small push, shadows were getting thin. At best, you're going to get a very faint image of your brighter highlights. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benjaminoliverhicks Posted August 17, 2008 Share Posted August 17, 2008 You could run it through your camera again to make double or triple exposures. That might be interesting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Gammill Posted August 17, 2008 Share Posted August 17, 2008 Panther juice and say a prayer! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Gammill Posted August 17, 2008 Share Posted August 17, 2008 But seriously, I did find an earlier post on the subject where someone used Glycin Stand Developer and rated it @ E.I. 200. I know that's a far cry from E.I. 3200, but maybe a staring point. If the images are important I would expose a test roll at the same E.I. and try developing it. Stand developing methods all shadows to develop more after highlights are developed. Google as there are numerous posts on stand development. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave_s Posted August 17, 2008 Share Posted August 17, 2008 There will be no development of the shadows-- just clear film base. Mike D is correct. Look at the characteristic curve for Pan F and shift everything to the left six stops. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim_appleyard Posted August 17, 2008 Share Posted August 17, 2008 Is there a way you can take the shots over? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lex_jenkins Posted August 17, 2008 Share Posted August 17, 2008 You might get some faint images that can be scanned, which is easier than conventional printing for wringing faint details out of badly underexposed negatives. Try Diafine or Microphen (stock solution for the Microphen). With Diafine I get a true speed of 50 with Pan F+. There's a chance it will deliver some image from your film. With Microphen give it 20-30 minutes in the soup. There is no scientific method here, it's pure voodoo. Agitate normally for the first 5 minutes. After that agitate for 10 seconds every 2 to 3 minutes. I've used this technique when pushing T-Max 400 to 6400 (examples are in my photo.net portfolio). These tricks may help, tho' don't count on much. Again, you have a much better chance of wringing out some detail using a good film scanner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gt1 Posted August 17, 2008 Share Posted August 17, 2008 "With Diafine I get a true speed of 50 with Pan F+." Lex, can you clarify that? I thought Pan F+'s true speed actually was 50? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gonzalo_echeverria Posted August 17, 2008 Share Posted August 17, 2008 6 stop push... what's that hydrogen peroxide technique some guys use for pushing? ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lex_jenkins Posted August 18, 2008 Share Posted August 18, 2008 Greg, Pan F+ is a true ISO 50 film ... when tested strictly according to ISO methodology using the standard developer for such speed ratings. In other common developers - Rodinal, D-76, ID-11, Ilfosol-S - it was closer to EI 25. And contrast was extremely difficult to control in full sunlight. It delivered the rated speed in Microphen but contrast was still a problem. In Diafine it delivered the rated speed and solved the contrast problem. I've tried the hydrogen peroxide trick with various films. It didn't work any better than a good speed enhancing developer like Microphen. I suspect the rumor of the hydrogen peroxide trick came about as a result of the legitimate practice of gas hypering film *prior* to exposure. I'm doubtful about the effectiveness of this trick after exposure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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