500CM & 80mm T* Beginner Questions!

Hi there,

 

I just bought my first Hasselblad & have never used medium format before, so please forgive my

questions!

 

The 80mm T* lens seems to be focussing a bit closer than it says it should (it says 3feet) and the

viewfinder doesn't appear to be pin sharp on faraway objects (12-15 meters away) when I'm looking

through the fine focus eye piece that flips up. Is that normal and should I assume that the faraway objects

will be in focus - or might I need a repair job done?

 

What the green numbers and red numbers are on the lens? I know what B means! Can I use the other

numbers at all?

 

Should I have the lens set on V X or M?

 

I'm using a Sekonic L308B meter. Is that a good one to use for this camera?

 

What is the little lever between where it says "Synchro" and "Compur"?

 

Anything else you think would be good to know at all?

 

Many thanks for your patience and time.

 

Very Best Wishes

 

Anthony

I just worked out the little lever is depth of field preview...

Do yourself a big favor and get a copy of Ernst Wildi s book The Hasselblad Manual, it will answer ever question and more. He was the technical director at Hasselblad for many years....very smart man, and pretty good photographer.The x setting is for electronic flash, m is for bulbs,v is self timer.The red numbers on the lens bottom are EV settings. Hope this helps some , please get the book, if will help you a lot.

A good book will answer all questions and will also bring up a few you had not even thought of.

Wildis book preferably not a more recent than the 5th edition or

the Hasselblad Way by H.Freytag are strongly recommended.

Both tell you all there is to know about the camera and a lot about MF in general.

eBay is a good source. Expect to pay 10-25 USD for a clean copy.

 

The lever V X M controls both flash sync and selftimer.

For use with electronic flash it should be set at "X"

All shutterspeeds can be used for flash.

With rarely used flashbulbs the setting is "M"

V indicates "Vorlauf" meaning a delay for the shutter of about 10 seconds.

To change the setting push the little lever left of this control to the front of the lens and set the V/X/M to the desired position.

Normal position is X because electronic flash is most likely to be used if any.

 

Welcome to the wonderfull world of MF photography!

 

Paul

I missed your question about focussing at a distance.

It looks like your camera could use a clean lube and adjust job also known as CLA.

Mention your findings about focussing to the technician so it will receive attention.

Anthony,<br><br>I too recommend Wildi's book.<br>Meanwhile, have a look at the manuals you can find <a href="http://www.hasselbladhistorical.eu/HW/HWVSys.aspx" target="_blank">here</a>.<br>How to operate C-lenses, like the one you have, is described in the 500 C, 500 C/M, or 500 EL/M manuals.<br><br>The close focus limit is usually given as a rounded figure. The lens will indeed go a tiny bit closer than 3 ft.<br>You should however have correct and clear focus with the lens set to any distance, from close-up to infinity. If you do not, it will be best to let someone else have a look at it. Preferably someone who knows Hasselblads and the Hasselblad focussing screens (the old screens especially were rather coarse. But still sharp.)<br>It might be that you just aren't used to the Hasselblad screen. it might be that the whole thing is out of alignment. It might be that the screen is upside down. Or that your eyesight is what is causing problems. ;-)<br>If it then still looks like the camera is at fault, have a word with the seller, and discuss the costs of having it seen to.<br><br>The green numbers to the left of "B" are there to provide an indication how many seconds to keep the shutter open (set to "B") when the apertures adjacent to these numbers will be used.<br><br>The red numbers and the triangular index pointing to them are EV-values.<br>The EV-system is one in which a single number is used to indicate all shutterspeed-aperture combinations that produce the same exposure. You will have noticed that when you turn the shutterspeed ring, the aperture ring moves along with it. All combinations you can set that way do produce the same exposure, and the index will keep pointing to the same EV-value.<br>This way, in which shutterspeeds and apertures are locked into a specific EV-value, you can select a shutterspeed or aperture at will, knowing that when you change the setting of either to the one you selected, the other one will follow automatically, keeping exposure constant.<br>You will of course have to decouple both rings to select a different EV-value. You do that by pushing the serrated metal tab next to the triangular index mark towards the body. You must keep pushing the tab while you set a different shutterspeed.<br><br>The Sekonic meter is fine, yes.<br><br>

Hi Anthony

 

You've just asked a load of questions that I asked about two months ago when I bought my cm. The guys and girls on this site are brilliant for answering them.

 

I got Wildi's book on American e bay for about $15 or 7 Pounds - a bargan. If you go for this then go for the fourth ed or below.

 

If you look up my question on the search facility on this site then type in http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00ON3a

this should take you to the question I asked about the flash sync X etc.

 

Also on the UK e bay at least, type in hasselblad, then on the left hand side click on books, manuals and magazines. There is a guy on there who sells manuals for the 500cm

 

Hope this helps

 

Alan

Before you 'sink' money in manuals, have a look at: <a href="http://www.hasselbladhistorical.eu/HW/HWVSys.aspx" target="_blank">Hasselblad Historical</a>.<br>Completely free.

I second Q.G.'s recommendation. Also, if you're in the US, every library in reasonably-sized cities will most likely have a copy of Wildi's book on the shelves. If your local library doesn't, they can borrow it from another library for you.

Anthony, what do you mean by "it focuses a bit closer" than it says it should? Are you

measuring to make this determination? If so, how are you measuring? There's a mark on the

side of the film magazine that shows the location of the film plane, and that is the place from

which you must measure, NOT the front of the lens or the front of the camera body. I think

if you measure from there you will find that the markings on the focusing ring are very close,

if the lens (or body) is not grossly out of adjustment.

I think that what makes eyebrows raise is that many lenses focus a bit 'beyond' the smallest distance printed on the ring, and that catalogues, leaflets and other printed matter often list exactly that distance too as close-focus limit.

Thanks for all your help everyone. Your answers really helped and the focus was fine in the

end!