jeffrey_gould Posted March 11, 2008 Share Posted March 11, 2008 Hi, I'm basically a video guy, with a decent amount of photography knowledge and I have a D200/D80 with 2 SB-600's and 1 SB 800, two umbrellas and a photoflex softbox. A video client just asked me if I'd be interested in taking 400 stills for a patient exercise guide...so I said yes. I plan on using a Denny Muslin backdrop, most likely blue and the shots are of 1 person doing various exercises, some laying down, some sitting and some standing. Question 1) Can this be done with only 3 flashes? I'd like to have a hair, key and fill light...but can I do without a background light if I aim the key/fill towards the background? I wanted to keep the talent 4-5 ft away from the background to avoid shadows and create some depth. Question 2) The D200 can only control 2 groups, so how could I have individual control over all 3 lights? Is the SU-800 the answer? Question 3) Will the trigger flash from the camera make a shadow? and lastly, should I use Flash Lock to insure they all have consistent exposure or should I just let the flashes do their thing? I plan on doing this wirelessly using CLS. Thanks...sorry, so long winded, but I wanted to give as much as info as possible. Jeffrey Gould<div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ellis_vener_photography Posted March 11, 2008 Share Posted March 11, 2008 My advice is to just rent and use a large (54"x 72") Chimera Softbox and studio flash (pack and head system) over the top of the set. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Laur Posted March 11, 2008 Share Posted March 11, 2008 As Ellis says, more light would help, given the size of the scene. However: when you go in to set up your camera's built-in flash as the commander, you can also set the power at which it should work during the exposure. Just set the built-in flash to "--", and you'll avoid having it contribute to the exposure... and, no shadow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffrey_gould Posted March 12, 2008 Author Share Posted March 12, 2008 Thank you for the quick replies. I honestly didn't consider the scene to be large...just the length or height of a person, but if you guys think it is...then I'm sure it is. I have no experience with studio strobes, but if you think that is the best way, then I wonder if I'm better off passing on this job and letting someone with more experience handle it. My biggest concern would be the background being too dark. Since I have so many video lights, is it possible to use a video light as the hair light and use of the flashes for the background? Thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elliot1 Posted March 12, 2008 Share Posted March 12, 2008 The equipment you have is perfect to do this job. Bounce flash would probably help a lot here to even your lighting and eliminate unwanted shadows. Why not ask your client if you can to a test shoot and do a little experimenting? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jake_crews Posted March 12, 2008 Share Posted March 12, 2008 Don't fear the studio strobe rental either. If you have a Penn Camera local, you are set! I tried it and loved it . . . and basic setup can be under $100 for the rental. Just my 2 cents . . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffrey_gould Posted March 12, 2008 Author Share Posted March 12, 2008 Thank you Jake and Elliot. Umbrellas aren't soft enough to eliminate shadows? I was thinking of putting them at 4 O'clock and 8 O'clock, so if there are shadows, then would fall to the sides. I'm in Central NJ and can't think of a rental place, but I'll look in yellow pages. I assume you use a sync cord to trigger and ignore CLS? If I went the bounce method, would I use a bare flash and aim it at a reflector/bounce board? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elliot1 Posted March 12, 2008 Share Posted March 12, 2008 How high is the ceiling? If it is a standard ceiling, I would try it straight up and at a slight forward angle to see what works best. Digital 'instant feedback' makes it fast and easy to experiment. You will also probably want to experiment with your flash's output level (increasing or decreasing) to help you get the lighting balanced. This is only a guess but if you bounced all of your flashes off the ceiling you would probably get the results you are looking for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffrey_gould Posted March 12, 2008 Author Share Posted March 12, 2008 Thank you Elliot, you're a good guy for taking the time to help me out. FYI, I had an Uncle named Elliot Bernstein from Long Island, NY Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elliot1 Posted March 13, 2008 Share Posted March 13, 2008 Good luck. Post a couple of shots when you are done! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffrey_gould Posted March 13, 2008 Author Share Posted March 13, 2008 Thank you Elliot. I'm actually having a photo friend who has a D300 and a few more flashes, assist me on the shoot. I certainly will post and you'll see me around here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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