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How best to clean and repair old lens and body?


hinman

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I have received some ebay bid items such as film bodies with K mount and M42

mount lens. And one package comes from a home filled with smell from smoking

and I can smell it in 10 feet away from the camera bag. I have a very difficult

time getting my face close to the camera and lens and I wonder what I can do to

wipe off the gear to sanitize the gear hoping to clean out the smell as well.

I was thinking of alcohol wipe paper towel. But before I commit the newbie

cleanup, I like to learn from you all who has more experience. Here are my

specific questions with some small clean up job that one can do it yourself type

of task.

 

1. How to clean the gear including lens and body to remove smell, dust, and

dirt? How do you clean up gear with a smoking smell?

 

2. If the rubber/leather that serve as sleeves covering the lens's focusing ring

are gone, is there product that one can buy to replace the missing sleeve for

the lens

 

3. If you hear focusing ring that is making rough friction noise that seem to

indicate the need for lubrication, any advice on things to open and what

lubricant to use against the lens barrel? I am NOT a handy man, is there link

with step by step instruction on cleaning out lens barrel especially if one can

fix on stiff focusing ring that needs lubrication

 

4. If you see the diaphragm, around the blades, have some oily spots, is that

something that one should even attempt to cleanup, what would be the symptoms to

watch for the pictures in a lens with oily blades?

 

Any help and advice is very much appreciated.

 

Hin

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If the smell of smoke bothers you, the solution is easy: Start smoking. It won't be long

and you won't notice it (or other smells) at all.

 

Ozone will remove the smokey smell. Try leaving it under a fluorescent black light for a

few weeks.

 

Oil on the blades (or anywhere else) is not always a problem in its self. Oil on a light mechanical device causes concern because oil tends to collect dirt and the dirt makes

things stick. In a well sealed lens, it isn't likely to collect any debris, but it is still possible.

The real concern is that the lube in the lens has settled (often due to heat) and it is only a

matter of time before it ends up on some glass.

 

I have serviced lenses in the past, but I watched the dis- and re- assembly of several

before I tried it myself. I am an engineer, I enjoy this kind of thing. I can fully understand

how this would scare most people and how they would ruin a lens on the first few

attempts.

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Matthew, thanks for the tips. I heard others mentioning about using air freshener like Fabreze to wipe on the lens to remove smell, I wonder if that is safe but definitely something for me to think about. In general, what cleaning solution is good to use on a camera lens or body? Would some very diluted alcohol work? Someone ought to be laughing as I have not had a clue on it. I usually clean my gear with a plain cotton cloth but for serious smell with dirts, I just wonder what can be better used for cleaning, thoughts are welcome. I would definitely take the advice of leaving it in fluorescent light.

<br><br>

Also, I really want to get some rubber part to replace the missing sleeve on the focusing ring of a recent manual lens that I have purchased with a Pentax manual p3n body. It is a $10 thing in ebay that I can't resist and this camera is not the one with smell.

<br><br>

<img src="http://www.mikescamera.com/images/ebay/2007/pentax_p3-camera.jpg"></img>

<br><br>

But this one does smell strongly from a smoking owner and I get the package with p5 and a Vivitar 24mm f/2.8, SMC A 50 f/2.0, Hanimax 80-210 Auto zoom, Sunpack auto 422D/Sunpak auto 30dx flash for a very low price.

<br><br>

<img src="http://i16.ebayimg.com/07/i/000/c8/10/2eb1_1.JPG"></img>

<br><br>

And thanks so much for the help,

<br>

Hin

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By the way, do anyone know the big difference between Pentax p3n and Pentax p5, I get both manual film cameras and my initial impression on p3 is better than my p5n. Assuming both are of similar conditions, if you have to choose one over the other, what would you pick. The p5 has a digital display, and more refinements on Program mode on Depth and Program mode on action, along with manual mode on shutter speed adjustment and Ev compensation. It seems more advanced than the p3n. But the simplicity of p3n won my attention way better than the p5 for some reason. I love the shutter dial on p3n and I have a harder time with the digital display on the p5n and and mechanics to go with Av and shutter adjustment in p5.

 

If you know about those well known Pentax gear with K1000, ME super, MX, how does the p3n and p5 compare to those well known manual film bodies. I have a BBA (body buying addiction) going on in my recent trips to eBay, very bad habit that I have formed and I am looking for an anti-BBA pill -- the ultimate K10D or the like purchase!

 

And on the Pentax AF film bodies, I have acquired a very good copy of Pentax pz-1 and I am in love with that Pentax pz-1, superb body if you ask me, though a bit bigger for my hands to handle, but that is a sheer beauty of Pentax AF film body for me to admire at. I certainly love to have a copy of MX or LX when budget allows but for now, I have way too many film bodies to admire at and many open boxes of early Christmas gifts from eBay.

 

And you can see my 1st film camera body with pictures in my blog post:

 

My 1st film camera with Praktica MTL5:

 

http://techtheman.blogspot.com/2007/12/my-1st-film-camera-prakticar-mtl5.html

 

Warmest,

Hin

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My first Pentax (still have it) was P3n. P5 appears to be their more advanced P-series body. Performance-wise specs are similar but it offers two program lines (P-depth/P-speed) and exposure compensation. P5 also allowed integration with a motor winder and cable release. (P3n added cable release over P3). Exposure compensation would be the capability one might miss (as these bodies don't offer manual ISO either) but you do have AE-L (ML) available.

 

As for how they compare, I think these P-series bodies are perfectly capable have their own charm. Compared to K1000, it adds program auto-exposure capability depth-of-field preview, self-timer and flash automation. ME Super and MX each have their own advantages and disadvantages. MX has no auto-exposure but is tough and operates all shutter speeds without batteries. ME Super lacks DoF preview and AE-L but does have exposure compensation. Also has no full 'program' AE but does offer Av.

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to cut down on tobacco odour I placed a couple tablespoonfuls of baking soda in ziplock bag spread thin over of what became the base of this "decontamination chamber", then placed a piece of wood to rest the lens on (being careful not to get any powder into the lens), sealed the bag and left it there for about a month. Did the same thing with the body. The odour is still there, but much less pronounced.
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If you know anyone who runs a hotel, putting the camera in a room with the industrial strength ozone generator will help a lot, after you clean the outside by wiping it down with a cotton cloth lightly dampened with a cleaner like windex, or a mix of isopropyl alcohol and water 70/30. Use cotton swabs for the tight corners.
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The smoky smell is a specialized question that I don't have a good answer for. I sympathize though, having just found a used soft case that smells so smoky I can't stand being near it.

 

For cleaning camera bodies, I find the best tools are a bottle of lens cleaning fluid (I use Kodak,) a box of cotton swabs (Q-tips) and paper towels. The lens cleaning fluid was recommended to me as being the safest stuff to use on most camera finishes without worrying about damage. I work best by going slow, and being methodical about getting into every corner and nook. I also find that the flat areas the look clean always have a layer of dirt that comes up.

 

One trick from working with movie cameras is to use a small hardwood stick -- they are good for getting into the tighest corners scraping any surface that has any emulsion build up or anything stuck hard.

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Hin,

 

Step one is to remove the camera gear from the chamber of cigarette horrors (that would be the camera bag). Amazingly, the smell will dissipate within a few days. After several weeks it will be gone. The bag may take a while longer. You could try washing it. The baking soda trick may be helpful. I bought a medium format rig in a similar state. ONce things aired out for a while, it was fine. But it was nasty for a while.

 

As far as taking things apart to clean and lubricate (your lens), don't even try. This is not for the faint of heart. You have not seen screws so tiny in your life. The tiny screws that you can see on the outside are huge compared with the ones under the barrel.

The moral of the story is: If it works, don't fix it. If it doesn't work and its worth fixing take it to a shop and let them do it.

 

Merry Christmas!

 

Mel

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Thanks everyone for all the valuable advice and tips. I have taken the gear out of the camera bag and after one night, I already feel less smell when I get closer to the lens and camera this moring. The camera bag seems to be the worse and Mel is right on the suggestion and similar experience.

 

And David, thanks for the tips of Kodak cleaning fluid, I will visit Ritz store and find something similar

 

And Zenit and Bob, I don't know anyone with owning a hotel, I think I will leave my camera out in cool breezy area not directly under the sun but in good weather later.

 

And Andrew & Matthew, thanks for sharing your experience with p3n and p5.

 

Much thanks everyone,

Hin

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I just happen to have a mouse pad that is thin and has a rubbery surface to mount on the lens for the missing short sleeve on my manual lens with Focal 28-80. And here is my 1st attempt

<br><br>

original p5 and focal 28-80 without sleeve

<img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2260/2125128619_5a8b0ac94e.jpg"></img><br><br>

 

Sleeve replacement with mouse pad

<img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2072/2125119525_011ac9f83f.jpg"></img><br><br>

 

Sleeve replacement with mouse pad

<img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2285/2125119685_ee9822d32b.jpg"></img><br><br>

 

I currently using Velcro strips to secure it to the lens, I will need to find a better adhesive that don't budge in the sticking part to the lens, any suggestions on clue or cement type of adhesive material is welcome. Thank you guys.

<br><br>

Hin

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There you go, Hin! Re-engineering with off the shelf parts! I deal with engineers all day long that want to make new parts when there's one on the shelf that will work just fine if they would just learn how to look or ask...

 

Contact cement is probably the way to go on that. Put a little on a scrap of the mouse pad and let it sit for a few minutes to make sure it doesn't attack and desolve it. If the scrap doesn't melt, use as directed on the package.

 

Rubber cement is another option. It may not hold as long, but if you ever need to remove the grip, it should clean up off the lens fairly well.

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Hin, to check on differences between models, access Bojidar Dimitrov's website (bdimitrov.de), which is pretty comprehensive of most all pentax models.

 

You mentioned the ME Super. That was my first Pentax camera, and only one for about 8 years. Despite limitations, it is a very nice little camera- metal body, perhaps the most beautiful of all, with chrome inlay accents. Very small size too. It can only flash sync at 1/125 sec even in manual. Dimitrov's website is inaccurate about that.

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