How many rolls from 1L ID11?

I've been using HC110 to develop in for the last 15 or so rolls, and been quite

pleased with the results. My bottle is running out now and I need to get more

developer and thought I'd try something different this time. I was thinking

about ID11. I've never used this before and was wondering how many rolls of 120

I'd be able to process per litre.

Am I right in thinking I should dilute 1:1 for one shot usage (does that give

less grainy results than diluting 1:3) - so in this case would a one litre

powder packet of ID11 process 4 rolls of 120 (needing 500ml of solution each)?

 

I was also going to order some perceptol at the same time - want to see what

some pulled acros100 would look like used for portraits!

 

Incidentally, I've heard HC110 referred to as a "solvent action" developer. What

is meant by this?

If you want results similar to HC-110 Dilution B, use ID-11 or D-76 full strength. Diluting 1:1 gives a different tonal curve, but pretty much kills the solvent action of ID-11, so you get much crisper and obvious grain.

 

Solvent action means that the developer chemically softens the edge of the film grains, making the film look smoother and less grainy. HC-110, and full strength D-76 and ID-11 have moderate solvent action. Microdol-X has very strong solvent action, the grain gets very mushed, and you loose film speed and acutance (sharpness of edges).

 

Kodak's D-76 1:1 times are based on using 8 ounces of stock solution per 80 square inches of film (which is the surface area of one roll of 120 or 135-36). For 120 film, that's the same amount of 1:1 that covers the film. For 135 film, that's twice as much developer as needed to cover the film. If you use 4 ounces of stock solution per 80 square inches, you need to increase the time by 15%, if I remember right.

 

ID-11 and D-76 are not very economical in the 1 liter or 1 quart packets. The price per roll is much better with the 5 liter or 1 gallon packs. But HC-110 is cheaper than either.

 

But, if you're happy with the results, there's no reason to switch.

If I were you I would just stick with HC-110 and be happy. Any change in your process you will need to test all over from EI, and developing times. D76 is a great all around film developer and so is HC-110. To me they are almost the same.

A solvent action developer essentially dissolves the edges of silver grains to make the grains appear less distinct. This has the effect of making your photographs look less grainy. Because of the same effect, it also will make your images look slightly less sharp. Whether this is a good trade or not is entirely up to you and your style of photography.

 

ID-11 is a great developer (it is essentially the same as Kodak D-76 but I prefer it because of the metric packaging; Kodak sells its US-packaged product in Canada, where I live).

 

My personal preference is to use ID-11 diluted 1:1 (I think it's a better compromise than 1:3 or undiluted) but you should try each dilution yourself and see what you think.

 

Remember that you should ensure that you use 125 mL of stock solution per roll of 120/35mm film, no matter how much developer you actually require. (Of course, you should use more if necessary :) but not less.) If you go below this, you will not have enough active ingredients to properly develop the film. (This is potentially a problem with 35mm film but with 120 you will need 125 mL ID-11 plus 375 mL water at 1:3, so you'll be fine.)

I'm an old grouch, I know, but I think that I have dared to test so many rules of thumb about what makes grain, sharpness, you name it, that I don't pay too much attention to them anymore. Go ahead and try ID-11, but on the side try something unorthodox. For example, get some ascorbic acid, some Metol and some sodium carbonate. Mix 1/8 teaspoon of Metol, 1/2 teaspoon of ascorbic acid, and 1 teaspoon of sodium carbonate in a liter of water. Now you must do part of a test roll in HC110 or D-76 or ID-11 and another part of it in the teaspoon mix.

 

There's no sulfite in the vitamin mix, so what will happen to the grain? Why worry about how long it will keep when you can mix it up fresh in a few minutes? A liter will do no less than 4 rolls.

 

Sodium carbonate is available as pHPlus where swimming pool supplies are sold. Ascorbic acid is of course Vitamin C, although there are other forms of such as sodium ascorbate, calcium ascorbate and so on. You can get the Metol, the ascorbic acid and the carbonate at Photographer's Formulary.

I should tell you that the normal development of Arista 400 EDU Ultra will be 8 minutes at 70 F. Do not overexpose or overdevelop and you will see that the grain will be quite fine and the resolution will be as good as your lens will let it. I bracketted exposures box speed, -1 stop and + 1 stop. Box speed gave excellent results.

Diluted one part stock solution to one part water, and tossed after development, ID-11 will develop four rolls of 120 per liter of stock solution. Possibly five if you are putting EXACTLY the minimum amount of developer to cover the film into the Nikkor tank. But usually a little unavoidable solution loss makes it difficult to get five rolls. If you really want five rolls out of a liter, just pour a little less stock solution and a little extra water. As long as you have exactly the same ratio each time, you will be consistent.

 

Used straight, poured back into the graduate, reused, and adding a time compensation after each roll (10% per roll processed to the next processing time), you can get 10 rolls per liter. Doing this is not recommended if you want the utmost in consistency. This is about economy, or if you want to replenish.

 

Perceptol will tend to make ANYTHING look soft, no matter how in focus it was. It will also kill a decent amount of your film's speed. If you want to try it, I would quarter-rate your film.

 

Keith