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Remote Sb-800 predicament


john_gallino

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I'm a big fan of using my Sb-800's SU-4 mode to fire it remotely using my on

camera flash. However, I'm starting to do band/concert photography and I find

that because the SU-4 mode means the SB-800 is triggered by the on camera

flash, that flashes from other peoples cameras--and even worse--strobe lights

for the band make the SU-4 mode not reliable for concert shots.

 

So basically I need another way to fire my SB-800 remotely from across a crowded

room, and I was wondering what the cheapest way would be. I'm hoping theres a

cheaper alternative to buying a pair of pocket wizards, which street at over $300.

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Radio slaves really are the best answer, but yeah, the PW's hurt a little in the wallet. There are a couple alternatives: the previously mentioned "ebay slaves", which aren't as reliable, but many people cite good results with them, Elinchrom Skyports, which are cheaper than PW's but still not "cheap", and then the SU-800 as mentioned above - as long as you stick with all CLS-equipped units.
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Well, you can now purchase the PW Plus II's for $116 a piece, which does drop the price a little. I have tried the Cactus V2's (A.K.A E-bay thingies), and the PW Plus II's. I got rid of the Cactus V2 in like a week. I hated the thing. It never did want to fire when I needed it to, and it always had a knack for misfiring when the flash was pointed into my face.
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John, even if you shoot manual the Nikon SU800 controller will give you control of the light output on the remote flash from the camera position which is very convenient. However, the IR system has its distance limits as well as line of sight. I find it very reliable in normal sized rooms, occasionally even when not in line of sight. I have had some problems out of doors. Your situation may be closer to working outdoors depending upon the size of the room.

 

The Ebay remotes, and personally, I would suggest that you go directly to Gadget Infinity for these rather than doing the Ebay hassle, are generally reliable. Although I have never used them, it appears that they also have their limitations and frustrations. The transmitters are around $30 and the receivers $15. Be sure to get the 16-channel, V2 not the 4-channel, V1 transmitter.

 

So you have two options that are less than the PocketWizards. Neither is as fully reliable as the PW, but possibly workable in your situation.

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If you have a CLS-capable camera, put your remote SB-800 in "Remote" mode instead of SU-4, and trigger using CLS. You'll need a camera that can do it, and if that camera doesn't have a built-in flash, you'll need either an SB-800 or and SU-800 connected to the hotshoe.

 

Don't be faked out by all the people who seem to think that CLS == TTL. It doesn't, it's just an IR triggering mechanism. You can still use manual flash if you prefer, and you'll be able to control the output of the remotes from the camera.

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Okay I did a little reading up on using commander mode with CLS to fire the flash remotely. I cant find my english manual for my camera body so I had to rely on my lackluster spanish.<P>

 

I got most of it figured out, and managed to get the SB-800 to fire remotely via the pop up flash. But I'm left with a couple questions<p>

 

1. The SB-800 wouldn't fire until I set it to channel 3. Is that normal?<br>

2. I know that if you set the SB-800 in commander mode, you can make it so that it fires the other flashes without actually flashing itself. Can you do the same with the popup flash on the nikon? how?<br>

3. Will the SB-800 be triggered by flashes from other people's cameras? Don't they emit some IR light also?<br>

4. Is this a radio signal or Infrared?

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I don't have a D70s, but I'll try...

 

(1) I think that's normal. I think the D70s only speaks Channel 3. If you use an SB-800 or an SU-800 on your hotshoe as the commander, you could use any of the other three channels.

 

(2) I don't think the D70s allows you to disable the on-board. Instead, you can block it with an infrared filter such as the Nikon SG-3IR, or a piece of film taped over the flash. Or you can use an SB-800 or SU-800 as a commander instead.

 

(3) The SB-800 as a CLS Remote will only be triggered by a CLS commander on the same channel. So unless someone else in the room is using CLS on Channel 3, you're all set.

 

(4) Infrared.

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"Don't be faked out by all the people who seem to think that CLS == TTL. It doesn't, it's just an IR triggering mechanism." - this is wrong.

 

Nikon CLS is much more than "just IR triggering" and much more than TTL.

 

CLS programs remote flashes, commands pre-flash communications so remote flashes will perform lighting test, measures light output of all flashes during preflash test, and that happens through the lens (iTTL). Then based on responses from the test the commander determines proper light exposure for all 3 flash groups, and the commander flash itself if SB-800 or in-camera flash used for commanding.

 

Finally, when the shutter opens, the commander just triggers all remote flashes, that were pre-programmed and tested a bit earlier when the shutter was closed (pre-flash time).

 

The communication on pre-flashes is not just IR, since the returning results of the remote flash test must by visible light, while commanding communication can be just IR (e.g. SU-800).

 

Another wrong statement:

 

"You can still use manual flash if you prefer, and you'll be able to control the output of the remotes from the camera." - looks like author means controlling = triggering, and not commanding in Nikon sense.

 

Nikon commanding means: adjusting remote flash output, testing, then triggering.

 

If set flash in manual, you will not be able to control/command/alter the output of the remotes from the camera, but only trigger them. In manual you will need to walk to each remote flash and set it to whaveter manual value you prefer, take a measurement with a flash meter, re-adjust if necessary, than take the picture, hoping that during this process your subject is still sitting there and waiting for all you chores to complete.

 

Tons were written up on the CLS/iTTl, just search. There is nothimg "faked" in it. Let Nikon fake you and you will appreciate that.

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if you want reliable radio triggers that don't cost as much as PW's, the only thing is Elinchrom Skyports... they work reliably, over a reasonable distance

 

ebay triggers are really hit-and-miss, with frequent misfires, or they don't fire at all, all of this on a random basis

 

someone above said that cheaper is more expensive in the long run, and I couldn't agree more

 

(The optical CLS thing mentioned above works only if there is noone else in the room sing a CLS capable camera, otherwise they can trigger your flashes as well I think... Or does it have channels like radio systems?)

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"above works only if there is noone else in the room sing a CLS capable camera, otherwise they can trigger your flashes as well I think... Or does it have channels like radio systems?)" - it does have channels.

 

CLS has 4 communication channels, and only another Nikon commander flash set as a commander, and in the same channel, can interfere with your photos.

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