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Can I 6-bit encode lenses myself?


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Ryan, this is a great link. Some lenses are easier than others. I did a Zeiss 28/2.8, a Leica 24/2.8 ASPH and two 35 'crons: v4 and ASPH, but have failed with a 35 lux ASPH. With my two coupons, I'll probably get the 35 lux and another lens done by Leica when they seem to be running at a reasonable pace.
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Yes, with a Sharpie and with the code list linked above. However, some lenses have a

screw head in the area where the coding goes that can screw up (wink!) the reflectivity and

thus the reading. I tried coding a 28 and it came out variously as a 21 or a 90.

 

For screw mount lenses, a guy named John Milich is now offering specially machined LTM-

M adapters with the 6 little pits already engraved into the mount, so all one needs is some

black and white enamel to do a nice permanent no-rub-off coding. Good for the 15mm C/

V (which can be coded as a 16/18/21 to get the right optical corrections with an IR filter),

as well as any other LTM lens (Canon, C/V, etc.).

 

You'll find discussion of these mounts at the Leica Users' Forum.

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John Milich also will cut those six little channels in your Leica lens flanges for $25 per flange. You fill them with paint based on Carsten's coding guide, and have a durably coded lens. You must remove, reinstall and code the flanges yourself (the removal at least is easy---I sent several flanges to him last week).

 

I'll post again when the flanges are back, and report on quality of work and time taken.

 

--clyde

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Okay, the short answer is that John Milich does excellent work, send him your flanges.

 

I sent John three lens flanges (35 cron, 21 elmarit, and 90 cron) last Friday, priority mail. I

got the flanges back yesterday (Thursday) priority mail, so a six day turnaround including

shipping (John is in NYC, by the way).

 

The flanges are exactly as before, just with six small pits milled into them. The pits are

very cleanly and uniformly cut, likely with a CNC milling machine. The ends of the pits are

semicircles, while the Leica pits are more squared off. Otherwise, they look just like the

Leica pits.

 

I filled in the pits as described in Carsten's guide with flat black and gloss white paint last

night (it's what I had on hand), let it dry for an hour or so, and scraped off excess with a

box cutter blade. I used trimmed down 29 cent paintbrushes to apply the paint. I let it

dry overnight, and reinstalled the flanges.

 

One point---on many lenses, if you just tighten down the flanges, you get some slight

binding on focusing. Tighten the flange snugly, and back of each screw a quarter turn or

so. Then focus the lens through its travel several times, and without touching the flange,

snug up the screws, and then tighten them fully. This has made every one of my lenses

focus perfectly smoothly.

 

Anyhow, all the lenses are recognized just as if they had Leica flanges. The coding is

clean, professional looking and effective. Coding for three lenses cost me $75, plus $20

for insured priority return shipping (regular mail shipping costs nothing extra), and took

exactly one week start to finish.

 

Email jm at milich dot com for details. He's responsive, and his work is highly

recommended.

 

--clyde

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Oh, and James, I also got one of John's LT-M8 adapters. It's a very nice adapter with coding pits neatly machined into it. My CV 15 is now recognized as a wide angle tele elmarit on the M8. These adapters are expensive ($150), but are well made, and function exactly as they should.

 

Until later,

 

--clyde

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