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Neutral Density (NDs) - Requesting Help


35mmdelux

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C'mon Paul, you should know how to figure filter factors. It's aperture I'd want to optimize, not speed. I'd still want the maximum speed as possible when choosing a ND, for example, I might want to use 1.4/2 in daylight with 400ISO at 1/1000 (why not?). I'd get a ND 3 for eight stops. But, why would I use 400 in daylight? I have been caught with that combo when my intention to shoot inside a Toledo, Spain Cathedral when I found a group of girls doing street photos of themselves (now deleted) outside.
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Couple of points. First be careful using strong nd filters with colour film. I have a Hoya 8x ( 3 stop) ND filter that has an olive cast strong enough to render any colour film very strangely.

 

When you combine nd filters you need to add rather than multiply the strengths. So a 3 stop and a 2 stop would reduce light by five stops not 6. The first poster may well know this very well, and is probably suggesting a 2 and a 3 stop in the interests of versatility, but its important you know that 2+3 =5. However the power of each filter may (as in the above example ) be expressed in terms of its power to cut out light. So a 8x (3 stop) filter and a 4x (2 stop) filter when used together can be described as 8x4 =32X . But 32x and five stops are the same. I hope that's clear.

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1/1000 @f/16 is the equivalent of 1/8000th at f/5.6, or 1/16,000th at f/4.

 

So if you wanted to shoot at f/5.6, a 4 stop ND filter would give you 1/500th and a 5 stop ND filter would get you 1/250th.

 

If you wanted to shoot at f/4, a 5 stop ND filter would give you 1/500th, and a 6 stop ND filter would give you 1/250th.

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I think Lilly failed to consider an equivalent exposure when doing her calculations, and it almost appeared to be a trick question at first. The original poster wants to use a shutter speed that's 1-2 stops slower, and an f/stop that's 3-4 stops slower, so you have to account for the discrepancy.
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