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Black and white vs. color modes


jim_brown7

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I was doing a shoot last night, (D2X with firmware up grade 2.00-- same as D2Xs) using the Black and

white mode setting, and shot raw (nef) + jpg fine.

 

I have a version of Nikon NX software on a trial basis. When I opened the raw files in DX program, they

came in as black and white. Fine no problem. Just for grins I changed the "mode" selection in the options

section and wow! the images are now in color. You can change the modes in "post" very cool. The black

and white options, of the different filters are very good on the defaults, yellow and orange filter options in

the black and white are very tasty. What is color mode I a, and color mode III a, ??? Since I was shooting

portrait stuff -- the mode 1 looked very good (assumes you exposure is dead on) the "mode I a" seemed

a little flatter, not as much reds as in mode 1. Is there any description on the addional color modes in the

DX software? or anyone out there know what Nikon is up to with this...?? These "modes" are not options

on the D2X camera settings ???

 

Observations: Shooting in BW mode with strobe get's you out of color balance issues. Grey scale values

like the polaroids we all use to know and love/hate are great for evaluation of tonal range of what you are

shooting... The color info in post looked good to me, anyone shooting in black and white settings and

then converting to color ??? Pro's and cons to taking this approach ??

 

Many thanks in advance for your thoughts on this...

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For even more control over black and white, it's a good idea to shoot in colour, then use the channel mixer of Photoshop or similar programs to convert it into black and white in post-processing, since you then have full control of which colours and to what extent they are converted into the luminance values of the finished black and white picture. An effect more reminiscent of black and white film, as well as colour filter effects, are possible that way.
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I concur with others regarding shooting color and convert to BW later.

 

In your question on Ia and IIIa, I think that "a" stands for Adobe RGB, so if you intend to use PS later, try that.

 

For me the BW mode is for scenes that I intend to shoot in Bresson style, and I need a preview.

 

Should you shoot in BW or Color? It may help if we ask: do you compose in BW or color? or do you respond more to light contrast or color contrast?

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Jim, as you have discovered the B&W mode setting is for .jpeg. There you are locked into B&W. When you shoot in RAW there is black and white only if your software reads the camera settings. If your software did not read the camera settings the RAW images will come up as color regardless of your setting (i.e. Rawshooter Essentials for one).

 

If you wish to shoot in B&W using RAW, I would go right ahead and do it. That way the image on the LCD comes up in B&W so that you can make tonal judgments while you are still at the scene. Since you use NX you always have the option of changing to a color mode and then making the conversion back to B&W in post processing if you feel it might be done better.

 

You might be surprised how well the in camera will come out. Some months ago, someone posted to one of the forums a half dozen images from the D200, five done in various post processing techniques from desaturation, grayscale and channel mixer using various recommended settings and one done in camera. They ask for the viewers to identify which was which. Almost no one was able to distinguish the in camera from the best post processing. I would image your D2X will do every bit as well.

 

IMO, it's the best of both worlds so why make it more difficult?

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Many thanks to all that replied. I concur that most control in creating a black and white

image would be to start with a raw (nef) file, and use chanels in photoshop. The defaults in

the Nikon NX software are interesting to use for a very quick comparison between say a

yellow and an orange filter effect. FYI here are some settings in photoshop that have

worked well for me. Yellow filter R=60, G=30, B=10, Constant =0 For a 25 red filter feel

R=100, G=15, B=0 Constant -15 For an orange filter feel R=75, G=20, B=20, Constant

-15 For a green filter feel R=35, G=55, B=20, Constant -10

 

BE SURE to select "MONOCHROME" when working from a color raw file....

 

I would mention that if your final result is a black and white image, seeing the image while

shooting in Black and White is a real plus. Try it you'll like it...

 

Most shooters assume that black and white is an after effect from a color image ...

 

Exposure is going to be different. I was suprised on my last shoot that I was under about a

1/2 stop.... Back in the film days that was the compensation we use to use for shooting in

BW with a flash.... I would bet that that logic is still relevant in digital? The raw file has

both the color and the Black and White information. For me seeing what I am after while

shooting makes the visualization process a lot easier...

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