l_a_k_h_i_n_d_e_r Posted June 3, 2000 Share Posted June 3, 2000 How does SU-4 work off a Nikon camera? I have a 8008s and a SB-24. I would like to shoot with couple of flashes in wireless mode. Do I buy three SU-4? One for the camera and one for each flash? Any alternatives to SU-4? Thanks. It is sad I have to ask this here: Nikon (USA/Japan) web sites are practically useless! I see fancy graphics of F100 and F5s and their specs. No info on any 'solution'. I have searched the repository here but no info came up on SU-4. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danny_weber Posted June 3, 2000 Share Posted June 3, 2000 You need one SU-4 for each slave flash. The master flash connects to the hot shoe either directly or through an SC-17 cord. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l_a_k_h_i_n_d_e_r Posted June 4, 2000 Author Share Posted June 4, 2000 How does the master flash talk to the wireless slave? I assume there has to be some kind of wireless communication capability in the master. I would be very surprised if my SB-24 has that! Also, since some kind of a master is involved which has to be connected via a cord (SC-17), do I assume that one can not do fully wireless based flash system? That is, have two flashes with wireless slaves somehow work directly with some gadget off my 8008s-- but no wires/cords. Thanks for your reply. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john_hanlon1 Posted June 4, 2000 Share Posted June 4, 2000 The SU-4 uses infrared to communicate with the flash. It is useable with most Nikon flashes including the SB-24. I got this information from Nikon's web site. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l_a_k_h_i_n_d_e_r Posted June 4, 2000 Author Share Posted June 4, 2000 I have been also able to dig up some info at http://www.nikonlinks.com (a new site for me). This is not a radio flash as the word "wireless" might imply to some (including myself)! And that is why I could not imagine my SB-24 to become a Master! Infra-red operation implies a line-of-sight (LOS) contact between the master and the slaves. The master's red bulb (or the flash front) should be unhindered to the SU-4 slave. SU-4 could be connected with a SC-17 cord to the slave flash -- if the slave is hidden or facing away from the master. I think this solution with no wired connection does help in lot of scenerios. But is not a complete solution. What would be a true wireless solution for Nikon cameras? A solution without any LOS constraints. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benny_stevens Posted June 7, 2000 Share Posted June 7, 2000 It is actually the light from the master flash that tells the SU-4 to fire the slave connected to it. When the camera then quenches the master flash, the SU-4 will notice the end of the burst and shut down the slave (almost) at the same time the master flash stops. The little sensor must therefor be turned towards the master flash but it is not as critical as when it were an IR beam. The problem with this system is that it can be fooled by flash lights from other photographers in the same room f.ex. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejaz adams Posted April 27, 2003 Share Posted April 27, 2003 I use Fuji S2 pro, do you think that built-in flash of this camera will work fine to accommodate my SB 28dx with SU-4? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tri_doan Posted July 8, 2003 Share Posted July 8, 2003 You can get more information about Nikon SU-4 from http://homepages.ihug.com.au/~parsog/Guy/niksu4.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jorge_diaz Posted December 30, 2006 Share Posted December 30, 2006 I use a cheap slave flash with my fuji s2 pro and it is just a matter of 'calibration' to get the nice pic.I explain: The cheap slave is a "Quantaray ms-1"(I think I paid around $20.00new)It is a light triggered job.It has a translucent bubble atop that houses a sensor.It comes with a base that you can mount on a tripod or stand alone.Initially since I shoot digital,I can calibrate a few test shots.Calibration for me is usually attenuation with the flash exposure values on my fuji s2 and or move the little slave around to get the most pleasing effect.It works fine!The little cheapie takes care of the shadows that the master makes.Hope this may help somebody. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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