adrian_wagstaff Posted October 16, 2006 Share Posted October 16, 2006 Hi there I have a Nikon D200 and I want to use it with my studio lights which are:Portaflash Series 3 - 336 VM Mini Studio FlashWith variable flash output - integral (full, half, quarter)Recycle time (sec at 240 v) 4, 2, 1 sTest button + integral slave triggerGuide no (ISO 100 metres) 36 mModelling lamp 402/60w This is the system I used with my F100. I am worried, reading some info, that triggering the lights from the sync cord might fry the D200, I have a Wein remote set BUT have never been able to get it to work so I have always triggered the lights via a sync cord.Can anyone tell me if the D200 is safe or do I need some other triggering mechanism to keep the camera safe ThanksAdrian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed_Ingold Posted October 16, 2006 Share Posted October 16, 2006 I don't like a long sync cord between the camera and flash. It is hard on the camera contacts, and if someone trips on the cable, the camera and/or flash may come tumbling down. The safest method in all respects is to use a pair of Pocket Wizards (radio remote). Otherwise, Wein makes an isolator which will protect your camera from excess voltage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adrian_wagstaff Posted October 16, 2006 Author Share Posted October 16, 2006 Thanks Edward I have no worries with using the Sync Cord but wondered if using to trigger the studio lights could fry the D200? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik_loza Posted October 16, 2006 Share Posted October 16, 2006 Couldn't speak to the D200, but I use a D70s with the PC cord all the time with 500 w/s strobes and have never had a problem. I would imagine that these cameras share some common circuitry in regards to PC synch'ing. I wouldn't have any hesitations about using it. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert_martin5 Posted October 16, 2006 Share Posted October 16, 2006 Check on the Nikon site, but what I remember is the flash contacts on the D200 are rated to 250 volts. I have used it connected to a sync cord of my studio flash with no problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woolly1 Posted October 16, 2006 Share Posted October 16, 2006 Hi, I have the same Portaflash 336VM heads plus a D200 and wonder why you can't just use the pop-up flash as a trigger for the flash heads. If you can't live with shielding the subject from direct flash and allowing the reflected flash to do the triggering then I know you can get a filter to go over the pop-up or even tape some developed but unexposed strip of slide film across it. This might be useful ... http://www.digitalsecrets.net/secrets/flash.html Regards Clive Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelbrochstein Posted October 16, 2006 Share Posted October 16, 2006 I know this is off-topic a little but I can't be more happier that when I set up a studio at home that I bought a pair the basic Pocket Wizards as opposed to having a long sync cord between my camera and the nearest flash unit (and using the built-in optical slaves for the other units - triggered by the "nearest' unit). Long sync cords being dragged around the floor is a recipe for tripping, falling (equipment and humans), and a steady diet of replacment cords. Good luck in whatever you decide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leicaglow Posted October 16, 2006 Share Posted October 16, 2006 I think the issue is putting a non dedicated flash into the hotshoe sync. Nikon makes an AS-10 or AS-15, I think, that regulates the voltage. I use it on my D50 and D200 when using older flashes, but I use my D200 in the studio all the time and have never had trouble with the sync cord (since January of this year). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joseph_wisniewski Posted October 17, 2006 Share Posted October 17, 2006 Don't look at me. I always trigger the studio slaves (White Lightnings, Elinchroms, even the old Speedotrons) with an optical slave, and use the D200 pop up flash in manual mode, 1/32 power, with a Nikon SG-3IR panel. At 1/32 power, the flash has no noticeable effect on D200 battery life, no noticeable recycle time, and the SG-3IR keeps the flash from showing in pictures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adrian_wagstaff Posted October 17, 2006 Author Share Posted October 17, 2006 Thanks Guys Certainly food for thought and I will probably go with the using the masked pop up to trigger the lights. Adrian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david_gagnon Posted October 20, 2006 Share Posted October 20, 2006 Adrian, Another option is to go into the flash portion of the menu and lower the built-in flash power as low as possible on the manual setting, IIRC it is 1/16 power. It will still be enough to trigger the lights. That may be easier than rigging something up that may get in the way later on. Just don't forget to change it back when shooting with the same camera ouside of the studio! DG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jessie_lacson Posted October 29, 2006 Share Posted October 29, 2006 I do have a Nikon D70. I used a infrared remote sensor attached to hot shoe ($40.00) with my JTL studio lights from Adorama works like a charm. Check if they sell (where you Bought the studio lights) an inrared remote.. Good Luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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