Advice on monitor color calibration

I need advice on getting a close match between my monitor (Sony 19"

CRT) and my prints, which are printed at Mpix. First, what is the best

method to color calibrate the monitor? Mpix requests that images are

uploaded in sRGB. I have loaded the Mpix ICC profile, for soft

proofing. When I am correcting the images, should my working profile

be sRGB, or the Mpix profile? The images on my monitor look good, but

the prints seem to have a yellow cast to them. Last Saturday's

wedding was in a room painted yellow, and it seems to be very

overpowering in the prints. I would appreciate any advice you could

offer.<br>Thanks,</br>Duane<div></div>

You may find this <a href="http://drycreekphoto.com/index.html">link</a> useful.

 

To answer your question quickly, "sRGB" should be the working space within Photoshop. The Mpix ICC profile is for proofing [View/Proof Setup/Custom...], it is not a working space profile.

And if you haven't done so, monitor calibration is important. Spyder 2, Eye-One Display 2 and Monaco Optix XR Pro are some of the most popular options.

When you shooting in a colored room, and allow ambient light to dominate, it will effect

the entire image.

 

If you are not getting prints that match the screen view using the Mpix profile, then your

monitor and color space aren't standardized to the same spec's as Mpix.

 

I assume the Mpix profile is already sRGB. So, IMO, the working profile should be Mpix.

You can check this by making sure the Mpix profile is selected under View > Proof Set-Up

> Custom AND/OR Edit > Assign Profile ... and make sure the Mpix profile is the current

color space.

 

When printing on your own printer, be sure to select "Let Photoshop Determine Colors" in

the printer dialog box.

I haven't had anything printed yet, but I just got the Pantone Huey monitor calibrator yesterday, and I couldn't believe the difference it made on my monitor. I have a couple test prints that my lab gave me to use as a reference, and when I open the digital version on my PC and compare to the printed version they gave me, the colors are now spot-on. It also has a cool feature that automatically checks the ambient light in the room and adjusts the monitor accordingly.

This is off topic, but I after looking at your sample image (great shot!) I was wondering what your strategy was for shooting in what looks like a very small room. Did you shoot from the back of the room the entire time? I find these types of venues difficult to shoot because I really want to be unobtrusive.

Good morning, everyone,<br>I want to thank everyone for their help so far, and keep it coming. I know this topic is mundane for alot of folks, but at the moment it is confusing to me, so I sincerely appreciate your time & advice.<br>Alan: Thanks for the link to Dry Creek.<br>Marc: So, when I'm editing images for Mpix, I should be using the mpix profile? That looks like it would give me the most accurate colors.<br>Jason: Thanks for your experience with that. <br>Jennifer: Funny you should ask. The wedding venue is set up for approx. 50-60 guests in that room. They had almost 80 guests. The location I wanted was (of course) in the very back of the rooom... just me, my tripod and 80-200 AF-s. With the extra people, my spot was full. In the end, I shot from the center aisle, knelt down low. Not my choice of locations, but it worked. My goal is to remain unobtrusive as well, but my ultimate goal is to get the shots! <br>Have a great day!<br>Duane<div></div>

Should I buy the monitor & printer calibrater ($300 and up) or the monitor only (like the spyder 2) for around 100-200?

Thanks

What has helped me is information I garnered from a week long seminar I spent with Eddie Tapp. I found what he said and taught made sense, at least to me. Others can offer additional information or correct me if I have presented something with errors.

 

Break the color management process apart.

 

3 Stages:

 

Input - such as your camera or scanner.

 

Process - work in Photoshop or some other program.

 

Output - device such as printer, monitor, projector.

 

The key is to establish consistency. In color management you need to establish a color working space, such as Prophoto RGM, RGB, sRGB.

Then the devices need to be calibrated and profiled. Finally convert profile. <P>

 

Here is a link to help with printer color management:<P>

 

<A href="http://luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/understanding-series/und-print-mgmt.shtml">Printer Color Management</A> <P>

 

Here is another on ProPhoto RGB:<P>

 

<A href="http://luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/prophoto-rgb.shtml">ProPhoto RGB Stuff</A> <P>

 

This is a real good site to learn a lot about photography. Check out other articles.<P>

 

<A href="http://luminous-landscape.com/">Luminous Landscape</A>

<P>

Eddie Tapp on his web site has information on calibration devices.

<P>

<P>Hope this helps you.

>Should I buy the monitor & printer calibrater ($300 and up) or the monitor only (like the spyder 2) for around 100-200? Thanks

 

Just the monitor one (Spyder2) will do since you will let the labs do the printing.

Just the monitor one (Spyder2) will do since you will let the labs do the printing.

 

 

That what I bought an dit workd for me, Marc is right on about changing the color profile when you do your printing your own (When printing on your own printer, be sure to select "Let Photoshop Determine Colors" in the printer dialog box) I had to learn this the hard way.

I really appreciate everyones advice. You've been very helpful.<br>Bill, thanks for the links. I spent alot of time reading from them last night.<br>Mpix is sending me a calibration kit (a print & CD, I'm sure) to ensure that what I see is close to what I get. I'm deciding between the Spyder2 and a Monaco calibrater. <br>Thanks for your help!<br>Duane<div></div>

T Duane Jones

I don't have much input on this situation, but I went to a will Crocket seminar where he talked about this. The Spyder color management did not rate well in his opinion. They (Shoot smarter university) extensivly test products, and have very few on their "recommended" list. Spyder is one that he said to stay away from. You can go to their website and see what ones they do recommend. Here is the link to the moniter profiling comparisons

 

http://www.shootsmarter.com/infocenter/wc026a.htm

Kari<br>Thanks for the info. I was reading some reviews after lunch, and the majority of people said the same... that the Spyder2 was ok at best. I'm still doing my research, but the Monaco model is looking good. Thanks for the help.<br>Duane

I use Monaco Optix 2.0 and after initial setup, accurate monitor profiles can easily be done in under 5 minutes. I have 5 different computers and monitors and any file prepped on any of these systems looks the same on all the others. All files print the same with occassional tweaking of contrast/density and I haven't even calibrated my printer (2200). Another nice thing about Monaco, is you are licensed to install the software on up to 5 computers (I wish PhotoShop offered something like that) when you buy it.<p>Bill Clark has it right. Eddie Tapp has an excellent DVD on Color Management available from Software-Cinema.com... t