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510 pyro dev. times


thanz

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I ordered the chemicals for "510 pyro" developer and was wondering if someone with experience with it

could recommend some starting times for Fuji Acros, Tri-X 400 or APX 100. I plan on doing my own

testing but I would like to start in the ballpark. Also does this developer give close to box speed or should

I adjust?

 

thanks for any help,

Todd

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For a normal 400TMax negative to be contact printed on Azo, try 9 minutes at 70 degrees F using the 1:100 dilution. This is essentially the same time I would give this film in ABC pyro. I don't use the other two films you mention, so can't help you there.

 

Jay DeFehr can probably tell you a lot more. I haven't enlarged any of the negatives I've developed in this excellent concoction.

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I've been trying it recently to compare with PC-TEA. The times needed are similar to that for D76 1+1 dilution. Look in cookbook or massive developement chart for actual times. This gives a good starting point which you will fine tune from there. I'm finding about 1/3 of a stop less than PC-TEA, which gives box speed, so about 1/3 below. Good luck and tell us how you do. Very easy developer to make and use.
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Hi Todd.

 

How did the times I suggested work out for you? As for film speed, sensitometric testing has indicated box speed with most of the films I've tested in 510-Pyro, but personal preferrences are what really matter, so adjust to taste. Good luck, and let us know how it works for you.

 

Jay

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Like you I've been put off by the grain of HIE and have been using Maco and now Rollei in 120. I put this roll through my contax G2 with 35mm lens and through an R72 filter. Exposed using incident meter set at iso50. The exposures are generally about right. Developed 510-Pyro for 10mins at 24c with standard 10s/min agitation. Slightly underdeveloped with 11 minutes being my next try.

 

They are surprisingly fine grained and sharp, with little of the halation that can be over the top. Good detail in all of the highlights, but still having that dreamy air that I was looking for. This has encouraged me to return to HIE in 35mm and experiment some more. May also try PC-TEA.

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Ivan,

 

that's amazing! The sharp edged shadows show that this was shot in intense sunlight, yet there is detail in the deepest shadows of the arches, and in the foliage of the little trees. I'll bet the print looks fantastic. Thanks for posting.

 

Jay

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O.K.,

first let me say thanks to Jay for the tips and times, and for recommending this developer.

 

a couple of notes:

When I mixed the dry chemicals into the TEA I was suprised at the consistancy, very thick,

but when heated it becomes a bit more managable. When heating in the microwave please

note that the TEA becomes hot pretty fast, at 30 sec I was at 168F.

 

 

The powdered chemicals didn't seem to want to completley dissolve but when cooled to

room temperature the mixture was clear.

 

Here are a couple from a roll I had waiting to develop, this is not fine art by any means nor

meant to be scientific, just my results from the first roll. The film is 35mm Fuji Acros 100,

rated

at 100 and developed in 510 Pyro 1:200, at 70F for 9 min. The 1:200 dillution seems to

give a very slight grain penalty

(these were scanned on a Minolta Scan Dual IV)

 

(they won't let me post images here for some odd reason)

Links:

 

http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost/data/500/

springer_III.jpg

 

http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost/data/500/

springer_II.jpg

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Hi Todd.

 

Thanks for posting/linking those images. Don't you just love that fast glass? My favorite 35mm lens is a 58mm f1.2 for my Minolta XD-11. Very nice bike, too. It looks like you're getting good film speed, sharpness and range of tones. How did you come to the 1:200 dilution @ 9min.? Did my recommendations not work for you, or do you just like longer times? I really appreciate your posting this info for all 510-Pyro users. I'm working on a website for 510 users, where we can share data, images, etc.; I'll send you a link when it's up.

 

Jay

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Jay,

 

I've been impressed with what I've seen so far, so I'm going to mix a batch. The gallon of TEA is arriving Monday; and today I'll be ordering the rest (along with some CD-3 for my E-6 developing).

 

My question: I don't have any phenidone, only metol and hydroquinone. is it possible to substitute one, the other, or a combination of both for the phenidone (adjusting the weight(s), of course); or are the properties of your 510-Pyro tightly tied to phenidone?

 

Incidentally, check out the reasonable prices from JD Photochem at:

http://www.jdphotochem.com/

 

Cheers!

Dan

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Hi Dan.

 

One of the most important differences between metol and phenidone, as they relate to 510-Pyro, is their relative solubilities in TEA. Phenidone dissolves readily, but metol must be converted to its base in order to dissolve in TEA without precipitating. Pat Gainer has outlined a procedure to convert metol, here:

 

http://www.apug.org/forums/article.php?a=195

 

As far as performance is concerned, there might be a slight speed loss, and/or increased grain with metol compared to phenidone. If you decide to make up a metol version, I hope you'll share your findings/impressions. Good luck, and don't hesitate to contact me directly with any questions or suggestions.

 

Jay

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