6x9(?) folder help

picked up a folder today basically because ive always wanted one

(also my wife wasnt there to tell me no). it appears to be a 6x9

with no holes in the bellows. glass is pretty clean. the shutter

sticks on ocassion and this is something i would like to fix. i

would like to some info on the shutter before i start and thats my

problem. the only markings are on the lense and front plate. ive

done some searching with no luck. the lense says "coated anastigmat

f-6.3 105mm" and the front plate reads "wcl cruiser 63 nyc". other

than the shutter speeds thats the only markings. any info anybody

has would be greatly appreciated.

 

thanks, doug<div></div>

You probably unscrew the front (focusing) element, then make and use a ring wrench to remove the element behind it. Then you puzzle out if there is anything else keeping the front plate on the shutter. Then find the escapement, soak it in Naptha (lighter fluid), perhaps use the tiniest amount of very light oil on it, and reassemble. You will have to recalibrate infinity focus on the front element, there should be small set screws that hold the focusing collar to the helical.

I doubt that shutter has the kind of escapement John is talking about since it doesn't look like it has slow speeds.

 

Are the blades opening and closing quickly or sticking?

the shutter seems to stick upon closing at speeds 1/50, 1/25, and bulb. sometimes closing all the way and other times not at all. hope that helps. im also interested in who may of been the the maker if anybody knows. thank you again,

 

doug

Here's a link to a "review" of the Cruiser 63 camera, written by "toy camera" "expert" Marcy Merrill.<p>

 

<a href="http://www.merrillphoto.com/Cruiser63.htm">Cruiser 63</a><p>

 

Marcy's sources are probably correct; it looks very similar to my Wirgin Auta 6.3, and if it is the same, it's worth loading and carrying. The beauty of an f/6.3 lens is that even though it's a cheap triplet, you can't open it up enough to see the really bad performance; it's permanently "stopped down" almost to the magical f/8.<p>

 

The shutter is extremely simple, but I haven't had to take mine apart; you should be able to get everything you need by removing the shutter from the front standard, unscrewing the rear element, removing any infinity stop screw and unscrewing the front and then the middle elements, and then simply soaking the shutter in a small container full of Ronsonol or similar "lighter fuel" (which is just naphtha). No lubrication is needed or wanted. Work the shutter a few times while it's in the solvent, then work it continuously as it dries, periodically opening and closing the aperture, holding the shutter open on B, and wiping the solvent off the aperture blades and shutter blades (VERY GENTLY) with a soft wad of facial tissue (the kind that comes on a roll works fine). Once the shutter and aperture blades no longer show any liquid when opened and closed, the shutter is dry enough to reassemble the glass and reinstall.<p>

 

The last thing you'll need to do is reset the focus -- the focus thread of the front element has, as I recall, four "starts"; that is, you can start it on the thread at four positions, 90 degrees apart. Only one of those positions will allow setting the infinity focus and getting all the bits and pieces back in their correct orientation, at least if you yours is like mine. You can test the focus with a ground glass in the film plane; I use a piece of stiff clear plastic cut to the width of 120 film, with frosted cellophane tape on one side, and hold it in the film plane with the frosted side toward the lens, then use a loupe or other small magnifier to check the focus of the image of an object at least a quarter mile away (a mile or more is much better). Once you get the focus correct with the lens at the right rotation for the bezel to fit back on and the infinity stop screw to match up with the distance pointer on the shutter, you're ready to load the camera and test it with film.<p>

 

Except that you should still put a strong light inside the bellows and look for pinholes -- mine had considerable wear on one corner where the folding waist level finder had contacted the leather a few thousand times in the past 55-60 years, and would fog the film in the gate if I opened the camera in a brightly lit environment. A little careful application of liquid electrical tape, followed by letting the bellows stand in the extended position for two weeks to dry completely, and I've gotten a lot of good images from mine...<div></div>

thank you all for your responses. thank you donald for your indepth explanation. thats going to be my project this week. thanks again.

My old 1997/1998 McKeown's list and illustrates your camera on P.130. I quote, "CRUISER CAMERA CO. Cruiser - Folding camera for 6x9cm exposures on 120 film. Probably made by Wirgin. Cast metal body with leatherette covering. Wirgin Edinar f/6.3/105mm Vario shutter B. 25,50,100. PC sync. $15-30." Better than a Holga or Diana, I'd say! Old pholders produce phfunky photos, Phoebe.

<p>Does anyone know where to get a manual for the Cruiser 63?</p>