Fuji Acros always a little purple?

Hi all -

 

I know the "new" t-grain films require longer fixing times, but I

seem to be having trouble with Acros 100. It never completely

clears. As an experiment, I left it in the fixer for twenty

minutes, and it still had a slight magenta stain.

 

The fixer is fairly fresh, and clears everything else just fine. I

suppose it could be a little flat but I have no reason to suspect

that.

 

I haven't shot a great deal of the stuff but I don't seem to recall

this problem.

I am looking at a roll of Fuji Acros that I just shot in a Nikon F2 to test the camera.There is no magenta stain to my film. I developed it in D76 and fixed it in Kodak Fixer. I have noticed a tinge of color in the Tmax films in the past though.

It does that for me, too. The stain goes away after a while, though.

Kevin I shoot alot of acros i 120 the only solution is rinse for a long time. It reqires the longest rinse of any film I use.

 

,Grinder

The 'purple haze' is seemingly a feature of all 'new technology' emulsions. I resolved the problem by two-bath fixing and the Ilford Method of washing. In the case of TMax, a trace of stain remains after washing but this seems to fade in time. Of all the 'new technology' emulsions I find that Acros has the least stain.

Adding a wash in HCA to the dev process helps reduce the purple cast.

 

- Carl

hi Kevin,

 

fix as per normal. the purple can be washed out by extending the final wash. i use plain water, keep agitating and replacing the water till it comes out clean.

 

gonzalo.

The purples clears from Acros and TMY with more vigorous agitation during washing. I use 5 changes of tap water for a minute each with continous vigorous agitation, and then a final cycle with distilled. No purple.

i know of that stain -> i just leave it after washing in a mix of water and washingliquid that the water rinses of properly.

i don't know if a wetting agent works this well for clearing the purplestain but the liquid does is(just leave the reel or the film in for some minutes- i usely then clean all the stuff and prepare for the next film/s

i think this is good way cause you save the wettingagent and you get it everywhere never got any waterdrops on my films

 

and i use a lot of acros for MF- real nice film mabe better then Ilford

ok i don't start a Ilford vs Fuji discussion

Dye removal is not a function os fixing time but a function of sodium sulfite levels in the fix bath. The sodium sulfite bleaches the sensitizingf dye. The presence of the dye does not mean that the film is not fixed. It is also removed in the hypo elimination bath, which is mostly sodium sulfite as well.

Lowel is nearly always right, especially this time.

 

However, there is lots of sulfite in fixer so most of us just double the fix time.

 

Lynn