Alternatives to reels for 120 film?

OK, my pal up in Manhattan doesn't have the temperment to load reels for

her 120 film developing. Assuming B&W only, are there any other

alternatives?

 

Thanks!

Dan

Sure, you can use tray developing. Hold each end of the film, immerse the middle in an 8x10 tray, and move your left hand down while moving your right hand up, then reverse and move your right hand down while moving your left hand up. Keep sloshing and keep everything moving to keep the film wet with developer. Try not to let the film touch the bottom of the tray, lest it get scratched. But make sure the middle stays immersed in the developer/stop/fix. Of course, you must do this dance in total darkness, at least until it's been in the fix awhile.

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Note that I don't really recommend this technique, but it <em>does</em> work. A sloppy old-timer at the newspaper where I used to work would do it this way when he was in too much of a hurry to load a tank. It produced many photos good enough for the front page.

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You asked if there are any alternatives. You didn't require that they be good. I think a conventional developing tank is by far the easiest way to get good consistent results developing 120 film.

Maybe her problem is with the standard reels. Someone on one of these forums pointed me to the Samigon reels, which will set her back all of $5.95 at B&H.

 

The Samigon reels are much, *much* better than the standard ones (especially for 120 film), and may change her view of the nastiness of loading reels.

The Samigon reels *may* do the trick. I'll bring some scrap 120 (and 35mm) film along to B&H tomorrow and let her try it.

 

On the other hand, I'm also looking at fabbing a couple long, narrow trays the length of a roll of 120 film (think rain gutter; or 3" PVC pipe cut in half with feet) which she can use in her cramped Midtown apartment bathroom.

 

Thanks! Dan

Even better, Hewes reels.

Or, if you search really hard, you could find the old Kodacraft tanks that use curtains (sort of clear plastic lasagna). You need the larger tank, and a curtain insert for 120. eBay?

 

Much more forgiving, but I don't know how much longer the plastic is going to last.

Freetsyle (www.freestylesales.biz) sells plastic daylight tanks with film aprons. They come in 120 and 35mm sizes. With a little practice loading 120 film onto stainless steel reels is not very difficult. I need to use the apron method because I am developing Kodak microilm which has been cut down from a width of 105mm to 120 size. The stuff is so thin that loading it into a Paterson reel seems impossible and using a stainless steel reel isn't much better. The plastic film aprons can last a long time if you rinse them thoroughly and hang them to dry.

Hewes reels in 120 were made for nine thumbed cretins like myself. Can't effectively load Samigon or Nikor, but the Hewes practically load themselves.

i recently picked up a 120 sized plastic apron type film developing tank / apron. what's

the method for loading this thing? you can see them:

item#s 50135, 50120 at http://www.freestylephoto.biz/

 

thanks,

justin

i played around with the purchased aprons and an expired roll for a while to develop a method of loading it that i liked. then i developed a roll i shot with my zenobia on 120-size Tri-X at EI ~1000 (for devt in diafine). as easy as the process was, i dislike the fact that it's strictly a one-roll-at-a-time process.

 

what was unacceptable was: APRON-INDUCED BLEMISHES IN THE FRAMES of the roll. there were actually spots on the film obliterated where the

plastic apron edge ruffles were touching it.

 

maybe i have some measuring to do. could my zenobia be shooting taller

than the purported 6cm? the margins seem consistent with my mamiya

m645. hmmmm. at any rate, i probably won't be using the plastic aprons

again. anyone else with such bad experiences?

 

thanks,

justin

i just posted a pic of this issue at the yahoo diafine group:

http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/diafine/