The Cheapest "Workable" Studio Flash Solution?

All right, first of all, my budget is a bit limited. I mostly shoot

outdoors/nature, but decided recently to get set up to do studio

style portraits for family and friends, and to learn.

With that in mind, I started looking at monolights, strobes, etc,

and I learned quickly that these things are expensive. And, had I

not just bought myself a medium format camera, I could afford

something nice. So, here's my idea....

 

I take my cheap non-dedicated flash that I already had, buy a light

stand($19) and shoe/umbrella mount($14), umbrella($10), hook the

whole thing up to my bargain basement chinese radio slave($15), and

get to work. Oh, and I'll meter the shots with the Wein WP500B flash

meter I got for $18.00.

 

The flash has a guide number of 60(ISO 100/FT). How much light will

I lose shooting through a white umbrella? With a f2.8 lens, will I

have enough light to get some OK results? I understand that I might

have to get the flash up close to the subject, but there are always

compromises.

 

Looking at the handy chart on the back of the flash, i see that at

ISO 100, it calls for f5.6 at 10 feet. So, even if I lose 2 stops

through the umbrella, that puts me at f2.8. If I lose three stops, I

could just move the flash to 7.5 feet and get a stop back, right?

 

So, when you stop laughing, some feedback would be nice.

 

Scott

Hey Scott,<p>

Your idea is actually very smart. More people need to start out with one simple light. It's much easier to learn with. The only thing you'll want is some reflectors (white foam core or matte board will do fine). Other than that, maybe some extra batteries (rechargables) for that flash.<p>

For portraits, you should have enough power. With the umbrella you'll lose about 2 stops depending on how small/reflective your room is (what for color cast with colored walls). Like you said, just keep the light less than 10 feet from the subject, which you'll probably want to do in any case.<p>

Ron,

 

Thanks. Yes, I have some foam core with a panel of the silver reflective material glued on the back. I had been using daylight photofloods with those hardware store reflectors, but they get pretty hot, and quickly.

 

Oh, and when the old t-shirt that I had cut up as a diffuser for the photofloods turned brown and started smoking, I knew it was time for a change!

 

Scott

...and if you need even more light, I've seen people use two or three hot-shoe flashes on one stand firing into/through an umbrella.

Is there an elegant way to do that, or do they use one of those hot-shoe slave attachments and some duct tape?

 

And I'd have to wonder at what point the economy is wasted. I mean, 3 $20 flashes IS $60! But I suppose you could find them cheaper on eBay.

Do you really want to shoot MF at F/2.8? Check how little DOF you'll have. If it's what you want fine but check out the DOF issue first.

 

1) Forget the 100 ISO film. Shoot 400 ISO.

 

2) A GN 60 flash is pretty wimpy for MF. Troll Ebay for an older handle mount flash. You should be able to find something like the Metz 45 for not much money if you take your time.

 

3) Maybe consider the umbrella softbox that you shoot through? This way you won't be bouncing the light back and then forth.

 

Biggest issue will be the lack of modelling light.

Use 400 speed film.

 

It is as good as 100 speed film was a few years ago.

 

When I shoot interiors I use 100 speed in 35mm and 400 speed (Provia) in MF.

 

Don't apologize for doing it on the cheap. There are lots of people with high end gear who take crappy pictures.

 

If you want more power, I just got a Digipopper 300ws from Adorama for $190 including shipping. I expect to get a lot of work out of it.

Scott,

 

I tried doing the same as you but found out that in the end that I could have gotten every thing I needed at very reasonable price from Britek (which I did). They have a warehouse in Los Angeles. I live close by. Their AS series is pretty cheap. Although quality is no way near the pro brands.

 

http://www.briteklight.com/asseries.html

 

 

 

Regards

 

Haris

I actually use those $25. - $30. 110v strobes you see around. They actually work too. That being said, you definitely need a flash meter and a good understanding of the inverse square law is a major plus.

 

I'm using 5 of these things right now. They are not 'super easy' to deal with, but you can get fantastic results with them too.

 

For a reflector, I use a projection screen. This reflects really well and functions as a flag to keep background lights off of the subject at the same time. Available at junk stores for $5. - $10.

I just created a great reflector for less than $12. I bought from our local art supply and framing place a piece of 30" x 40" 3/16 foam core and the same size gold foil mat board. Glued the foil to the foamcore and now have a white/gold reflector that works beautifully. I will probably post a sample after the lab develops the shots I just took using it on Monday.

I think several of the replys are well intentioned but is it worth your time to be shooting at 2.8?

I use a similar setup except I use a Vivitar 285 flash. I'm able to shoot at F4 or F5.6 using 200 asa film. I don't even use a lightstand I use a tripod as a light stand. Make sure you use the fill reflectors because with a single umbrella you will need it. I also use one of the car windshield shades that has one side silver and the other side gold as an alternate fill reflector. A reliable and accurate flashmeter is the most important component!

Here is the result of my home made reflector. The main light is 24"x36" softbox powered by a 600w/s unit set to 3/4 power.

http://www.photo.net/photodb/presentation.tcl?presentation_id=308018

How about the SunPack 383? (GN 120) I can get one for about $70 new. Then I can use it with an umbrella in the studio, or on the camera out 'in the field'. If seems that I should be able to get to f8 with this flash at a reasonable distance with an umbrella, or at least f5.6.

A Sunpak 383, or a Vivitar 283/285, is definately a more useful solution, in terms of power. Don't despair, you can still use a GN 60 flash with a $10-15 slave trigger as a background light, or fill light, or hair light. :)

 

Truth be told, though, for the price of a 285, or a Sunpak 283 (~$70), you can get an equivelantly-powered monolight on the 'Bay. The modeling light is useful, and you can more easily affix lightboxes and the like to them than you can a shoe-mounted flash.

 

I've done the 283 thing, with an umbrella. It's definately doable, if you have a good flash meter. But I got my 283's for ~$15 each. Great flash for portable work, but if I had to buy one new for portrait work, I'd just get a $58, "110W" monolight and be done with it.

Where are these $58 monolights? The only thing close that I have been able to find has a GN of f4.5 at 10 ft, which makes it seem like less power than the Sunpak 383.

Rent an 800WS Norman with a couple of heads and stands. Or buy one...mine's added up to under $500 with two heads. 1sec recycle, 800WS, plenty (just barely) for medium format.

I have decided on the JTL J-160. $109 at KEH. I think it's a reasonable start to studio flash photography, as may accessories are available.

 

Thanks for all the suggestions!