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re: printing with poor saturation in shadows


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I posted this a few days ago and was asked to see na imge that

looked ok on screen but where the shadows were muddy fell apart on

the print. See image attached

 

I wrote: I am having trouble with some prints with a large shadow

area but still lots of good saturation and detail . On screen they

look great but when I print the color and saturation collapses and

seems so flat and dull. I am using pscs, and epson 2200 printer with

photorag or epson enhanced papers, MIS inks (eboni black) and I have

been using a gretagmacbeth eyeone2 monitor calibrator and using

epson profiles eg Epson enhanced matte1440MKicc downloaded from the

epson site. Any suggestions of anything I can do to correct this?<div>00DlDn-25929184.jpg.b2759bb1d5fd30780faa6e03fe62c6fa.jpg</div>

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try saving a copy of your image. go to view>proof view> custom... now set up a view with your paper profile andthe rendering intent you intend to use. now set that new proof view color to the proof view. now go to the view>proof colors, and the view>gamut warning. now adjust all your curves and the like until you can see detail the way you like it. now print. this will help you adjust your image so that it will fit within your paper profile. and you will have detail in you shadows.
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I tried to post a reply a few minutes ago, but there seemed to be a problem with the photo.net server.

 

Anyway, what I wanted to say was, why would you assume that the Epson profile will be accurate for non-Epson inks? Why would it? Shouldn't you make your own profile for MIS inks, or get a canned one from MIS or have a custom profile made for you?

 

What sort of results do you get using the Epson profiles and Epson inks? If the results are fairly accurate, I would suggest that the poor results with MIS inks are indeed down to your using an inappropriate printer profile for that printer/paper/ink combination.

 

Custom-profiling services are relatively cheap, but you will need a custom profile for each printer/paper/ink combination you use.

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You need a profile for the specific paper and ink combination. The Epson profiles assume you will be using Epson inks (not an unreasonable assumption). Subtle differences in color and absorption of the ink can make profound differences in the results. Using the wrong profile can make things a whole lot worse.

 

You can generate your own printer profiles using Getag-MacBeth Eye One Photo, which uses a different measuring device than yours. There are also third party services that can do this for you. Does the manufacturer of MIS inks have profiles or a profiling service?

 

Basically, you print a "standard" file, with color management turned off, to produce a color chart, which is then read by a colorimeter (or spectrophotometer) to calculate the profile.

 

If the colors are good, but blocking in the shadows, you can also try opening up the shadows in Photoshop (using the light/shadows tool or Curves) until you get the results you want. Obviously, the print will not match the display, which is the whole reason for calibration and profiles.

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  • 7 months later...

It can also be too much ink. If you go to the advanced settings and then to ink settings and bring it down to somehwer ebetween -15 to -18 % then you will notice an improvment.

 

In addition, you can try and add a bit of noise. Go to filters, noise, then zoom in on your affected area and add the tiniest bit fo noise. I had a picture of a black bear from TN and I added 2.25% noise to the picture and my shadows came back to life. Just enough so I could barely see the noise zoomed in but the ink will bleed enough to cover it.

 

Also, what do you have selected when you print? As in colro managment in your print options?

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