Nikon MF camera body

I'm relatively new to this site, but have gotten some wonderful

advice from several people here. So, it is with this in mind that I

bring another question to the board.

 

I would like to buy a Nikon manual-focus camera body. I have owned

several Nikon AF bodies and a DSLR, but have never owned a manual-

focus Nikon. I recently went on a trip with some friends - one of

whom had a FM2. She seemed to enjoy the camera quite a bit, and the

more I watched her use the camera, the more I thought about getting

one for myself.

 

So, my question is this: Which MF camera body would be a good

choice for me? I mostly shoot portraits and landscapes, but there's

so many different models that I get lost in the alpahbet soup (FG,

F3, FM2, etc.). Furthermore, approximately how much should I expect

to pay for one of these cameras (preferably in good shape)? Thanks

in advance for any help you might offer.

 

Mark

Mark, try this site and click on "classics":

 

http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/michaeliu/index.htm

 

--Lannie

There is also PN's own Nikon equipment page:

 

http://www.photo.net/equipment/nikon/

 

As for prices, you can shop the PN classifieds or eBay to get an idea as to how used prices are running. Don't be in a rush to make a decision. Prices are not going to be rising anytime soon.

 

--Lannie

Lannie's tip to visit mir.com is a good one, excellent information there. Since you like portraiture you may want to look at bodies that accomodate interchangeable focusing screens (some screens work better for different people); aperture priority may also be useful to you. That said, I would suggest reading up on the FE2, FM3a and the F3. The FE2 and FM3a are lightweight bodies with very similar features including mirror pre-fire (quasi mirror lock up) for your slow shutter landscape shots...however the FE2 is long discontinued and can be a slightly risky buy in terms of getting it repaired. The F3 is a heavier pro body that is a total steal used these days...has mirror lock-up with an array of other available accessories.

Anecdotal information: I really like my FM2n, though if I were buying today I'd get an FM3a instead for it's flash capability and A mode. I am mostly shooting digital these days and I'm thinking my F5s days are numbered but I don't see myself selling the FM2...The simplicity is nice.

IMHO, if your budget allows it, the FM3a is the best choice.

 

Others worth considering are the F3HP, FE2, and FM2n. The F3HP is the best if you need a pro-caliber body, but it is not as good a flash camera as the FE2, FM2n or FM3a, due to slower sync speed and lack of an integral hotshoe.

 

An FM3a would cost $450-500 for a new body. FM2n, FE2, and F3 bodies can be gotten used for around $250-300 in Excellent condition.

If budget is REALLY a tight consideration, you could also get an excellent condition used FG, or FM body for under $100. The FE is also available in that range, but would be impossible to get repaired if it had anything go wrong with the electronics. Those cameras would provide most of the capability of the others in my prior post, for a fraction of the cost.

I made a similar move not too long ago. I opted for the FM3a because it had some features over the older Nikon's I liked. Seemingly simply things such as a window in the camera back for easily checking what film is loaded. Also I love the match needle interface and there is something comforting about it's ability to operate without batteries, even though that's a feature I will likely never need.

 

All the best.

Greg.

If you don't mind buying used, go to keh.com.

 

I'd echo the others; if you have the money, go with the FM3A.

 

If not the FM3A, my choices would be the FM2N or the FE2.

 

That's my $0.02.

 

KL

Mark, if you are getting more confused, then this ought to help narrow it down for you:

 

http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/companies/nikon/htmls/models/htmls/slrmain8090.htm

 

--Lannie

Mark, the basic question may be: do you want a full mechanical body or an electronic controlled one. Electronical means faster shooting. 2nd question: do you want a pro body or a more compact one.

<p>The F, F2 are very rugged full mechanical pro bodies with interchangeable screens. The F is a bit old now but you can get it rather cheap. The F, F2 with standard prism has no meter at all. Some prefer shooting with such a camera. They are very reliable. You also can get a Photomic finder for a F, F2 with meter, there are different versions you can check on the above suggested websites. The F3 is electronical controlled and has probably the best finder of all manual bodies.

<p>The more compact bodies are the FM-series (mechanical shutter) and the FE-series (electronical). If you are on a budget (~100-150) the original FM or FE are good choices. The FM2 and FE2 are improved models and sell higher (~200-250). The FM3A is still in production and the most expensive choice (used ~400-500), it combines the features of both series and has a hybrid shutter. I would not go under the FM/FE-series with a FG or something else. I have an orignial FM and a FM3A and can recommend each of them.

But if you want to expand your options, Mark, then you can go back a few more years:

 

http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/companies/nikon/htmls/models/htmls/slrmain5979.htm

 

--Lannie

I own three Nikon bodies, and would hate to give any of them up.

 

Mostly I shoot with an F3HP/MD-4. Lovely machine as long as you aren't trying to attach a flash to it. By the time you get the adaptor around the rewind crank and put a flash in the hotshoe on top of that it's incredibly unstable. No way am I giving this one up, and I occasionally consider getting another one.

 

My previous body, and the backup for the F3, is an FM with an MD-12. If I needed to travel light for some reason, I think that's the camera I would grab. It feels light but solid if I pull the motor-drive off, and unlike the F3 you don't have to seal anything up when you make that switch. In a number of ways, the FM2 (or FM2n) are improvements, the only way I'd give up that body was if it meant I got an FM2n.

 

My third body is an F4s. It handles like a dream, and the AF works well enough for me. (Nothing I shoot moves very fast.) I'd miss it if it were gone, but don't have nearly the attachment to it that I do with the F3. It also just doesn't feel right using manual-focus glass on this body. From what I've heard, I'd definitely be willing to give it up in favor of an F5.

 

I'd recommend either an FM2n or an F3HP. Either is cheap enough that you can buy yourself some really nice AI-S primes to go with it. My personal favorites are the 55/2.8 MicroNikkor, the 105/2.5 Nikkor, and the 90/2.5 Vivitar Series One. I also have the 50/1.4 and 35/2.8, but I don't shoot wide all that often. I have used the 24/2.0 and was stunned by it for shooting inside homes but I don't shoot realestate anymore so I'm not dying to get one.

 

I mostly shoot in the studio and really like the flow of using a motordrive while bracketing. That may or may not apply to you, but you can frequently find either the MD-12 (for the FM/FE series) or the MD-4 (for the F3) in the $50-75 range on eBay.

 

Van

Here is Phil Greenspun's take on the FM3a:

 

http://www.photo.net/equipment/nikon/fm3a

 

--Lannie

This question comes up fairly often and my responses are pretty consistent: I'm still satisfied with the FM2N and F3HP.

 

The FM3a is a really nice camera but I doubt you'll get find one at as close to a bargain price as you can an FM2N. OTOH, the FM3a offers some nice features for the money.

I would suggestion the F3. The F3 is a great camera, with exception of the flash mount. I use KEH for all of my used purchases. They have some very reasonable prices. If your not hung up on cosmetics, consider buying a bargain camera. KEH has a very good return policy so in the event you don't like it, just return it for something else.

Mark, I have a used F3 that I picked up dirt cheap from Adorama. It looks like it has been sand-blasted, but it works fine. It is not the titanium model, but it (like all the F3s) has a titanium shutter that still has some life in it. It appears to be accurate at all shutter speeds.

 

I haven't heard anyone here bad-mouth the F3, unless it is because of the flash mount, but I avoid the flash by using it with a 50mm f/1.2 inside and any lens I want outside. It is a very reliable camera.

 

--Lannie

"She seemed to enjoy the camera quite a bit, and the more I watched her use the camera, the more I thought about getting one for myself."

 

Is she beautiful..?

The FE is just about ideal if you don't want TTL flash metering. Full manual and aperture

priority, simple exposure compensation, speeds to 1/1000, matched needle metering, depth

of field preview. Choose the FE2 for a slightly newer body with TTL, and shutter speeds to

1/4000. FE's go for about $125, FE2 about double that.

 

Whatever body you choose, pick up a 45mm Tessar for true minimalist bliss.

Wow...look at all the helpful reccommendations on this page...you'll have to share your decision and rationale. Given your experience w/ several AF bodies and a DSLR, steer clear of the FG for a variety of reasons. FM3A: very nice but likely overkill...great if you're inclined to spend a bigger coin. FM2n: I'd really miss aperture priority. F3: I find the slow sync speed (1/60 due to horizontal focal plane shutter) to be the absolute deal-breaker...great body for a variety of work but definitely not flash. FE: doesn't offer TTL, lesser shutter life than FE2, 1/125 sync, 1/1000 max spd. FE2...best choice...Titanium shutter (for long life; some were made w/ aluminum shutter; ensure Titanium, which has honeycomb look), 1/250 sync, 1/4000 max spd, TTL metering, excellent performance for modest price! Godspeed!

Mark,<br>

<br>

Go for quality: the F3, F3HP, FE2 or FM2n will give the best

deals. If the budget allows the FM3a is an upgraded FE2. Despite

its name the FM3a is an FE family camera. The FM3a supports TTL

flash from ISO 12 to 1000 where the FE2 only supports ISO 25 to

400. The FM3a give manually timed shutter speeds from 1 sec. to 1/4,000th

sec. without batteries due to its hybrid electronic/mechanical

shutter. The FE2 offers quarts timed shutter speed of 8 sec. to 1/4,000th

manual mode but only with batteries. Without batteries it offer 1/250

and B. Both camera offer step-less shutter speeds from 30 sec. or

much less to their top speed. The FM3a has a back light button

and a few other minor improvements. <br>

<br>

The FM3a comes with a warranty so consider that when you consider

the price. I own several FE2(s) and love the camera. Due to the

similarity but useful improvements Ill give top

recommendation to the FM3a over the FE2.<br>

<br>

The F3 and F3HP are a full system camera. The TTL flash support

is older and the sync speed is just 1/80 instead of 1/250 like

many of the best Nikons. To use standard ISO hot shoe for modern

Nikon TTL speedlight you need the $120.00 AS-17 adapter. It

attaches over the rewind knob so its a nuisance when not

using the MD-4 motor drive. The MD-4 is a much better motor drive

than the MD-12 for the FM/FE family cameras. The F3 accepts more

varieties of focus screens than any other Nikon model. It accepts

the beautiful DW-4, 6x waist level view finder for macro and

astral photography. If you need the extra features of the F3 it

might be your top choice. Fill flash in daylight is next to

impossible particularly with medium and fast film.<br>

<br>

The FM2n has a bright ruby red +0- meter display that is easier

to use in the evening than any of the others. If you shoot with

fast prime lenses and dont care for flash the FM2n is a

good choice. The F3 however will likely allow you to shoot at

slower shutter speeds due to a very well dampened reflex mirror.

I do not care for the F3s meter display. Its an LCD

with an almost useless back light. The switch for the back light

is a tiny red square button. The switch often fails and so the

back light is often not functional on many F3(s).<br>

<br>

Thats my rundown. I love all these cameras. I own the F3

with both standard and high eye-point finders. It is a little

easier to focus the F3 (DE-2 prism) than the F3HP (DE-3 prism). I

bought an F3HP to get a newer camera then bought a new DE-2 prism.

I wear glasses and shoot through my glasses and still prefer the

F3 to the F3HP. Since I own several FE2(s) I never bought an FM3a.

I also own a couple of FM2n(s).<br>

<br>

I recommend that you not go with the most popular as these are

all fine and popular cameras. Think about how you will use the

camera. If the budget allows you might go crazy and buy an F3 or

F3HP and an FM2n.<br>

<br>

Best,<br>

<br>

Dave Hartman.

I have the F3hp and an FM2n. The FM2n is used with the 45mm F2.8P and is very compact but 99% of the time the F3hp is the first camera that I would take out with me! IMO the F3hp is one of the finest manual SLRs made, so it would be my choice.

Simple really: If you want AE (automatic exposure) get the FM3A (it

also has full manual, mechanical settings too!) or the all-mechanical,

utterly dependable, built-like-a-lightweight-tank FM2N. They'll both

probably outlive all of us.

Can I ask a not so intelligent question? Which is the most expensive non-digital SLR body Nikon has ever made?

Excluding special edition cameras (i.e. FA gold edition), the Nikon F5 has been the most expensive SLR at its introduction at around $2500. Second would the the F6, which sold for $2300 at first but now goes for about $1900.