Vivitar 283-285 Discontinued? Replacements? Why?

I just found out the Vivitar 283 and 285 have been discontinued to my

dismay and the dismay of the sales rep at B&H. Is the Sunpack 383 as

good or better than the good ol 283, or is there another flash in that

price range with the GN of 120 or better. Also dose any one have any

clue as to why Vivitar would drop such a beloved product? Seems short

sighted but then again I seem to have no clue as to why any photo

company is doing what it is these days.

 

Take Care

 

Dave Matuszek

Maybe because it was a mediocre product when new, and became ever more antiquated

withl the time. Flame away-- I know there are a lot of photographers (or net posters, at

least) who sing its praises still. And will again, but for what it's worth, here's my contrarian

user review.

 

I bought one of these when they were fresh on the market and slapped it on top of my

SRT-101, back in the day. After a few months, the foot broke off and I found a sturdier

alternative, a Rollei handle-mount that was secured by a sturdy set screw. That began a

succession of Euro-flashes from Metz, Phillips and Rollei. Each offered all the 283's

features-- several auto ranges, bounce flash-- but used their own clear, elegant user

interfaces. Some had lit numbers that instantly highlighted the chosen f-stop and range.

Each interface was far better than the 283's fussy little dial, which used a circle to illustrate

a linear function (subject distance). The Vivitar 283 was the Windows OS of its time,

awkward and ill-designed but dominant in the market. So dominant that they forced better

products like the Rollei flashes off the shelves.

 

Then came the LCD screens on the back of flashes, clarifying things further. I can't fathom

why someone would still be peering at the dials of a 283, except for nostalgia for the

suffering. But I still use an Osram potato-masher flash every day as a slave light for

interior fill.

 

I can think of two positive features of the 283 and its kin: you could find one for sale

anywhere, and with practice, you could light a photo with one. The negatives: everything

else. (I'm exaggerating this roast for entertainment's sake, but not by much.)

 

Actually, I think most any shoe-mount flash using as many as four AA batteries is a

structural failure waiting to happen, but that's another story. Every shoe-mount flash I've

used regularly has suffered a broken foot, and none of the handle-mounts have. I'm quite

impressed that Nikon is finally using metal for the shoe mounts of some of its consumer-

level flashes. That's a meaningful improvement.

 

I rest my case, and leave the rest of you Vivitar enthusiasts to

get on with your mourning...

Thank you for the reply John, (I hope I am not opening a can of worms.)

 

I think your missing the point as to why the 283 was such a beloved flash. Yes it was big, ugly, took some skill to use, but what do you want for 70 bucks? Yes the Metz, Phillips and Rollei are nicer, more user friendly flashes but cost 2, 3 or 4 times the price. Comparing any Vivitar product to one made by Rollei is like comparing my Chevy to an Audi. The Audi is nicer but both can get you from point A to B.

 

So now that I need a new flash after my father?s 20 year old Vivitar died (because I dropped it) what can I get in the 80 dollor price range with a similar Guide Number.

There are a ton of used/new Vivitar 283 and 285 units on the 'Bay. You can pick one up for a fraction of the cost of new. You may even get lucky and find one that comes with a Quantum battery and cable, if you don't already have one. I have about 10 283's that I picked up recently, and many are in great shape. If you're interested in one, send me an email. Either way, just because they're not being sold new anymore from B&H doesn't mean that you'll have any trouble finding a replacement for the one you just lost. Good luck!

the why I suspect is because now, everybody expects dedicated flashes that talk to the camera. Just not a big market for non-dedicated units. I've got a pair of 285's (both bought used) that keep chunking away. I've never had any issues using them, even the auto modes work well as long as you understand they measure reflected light. I have broken one foot, but I had to knock it into a wall to do so. took me about 15 min. and $15 to fix. I know a lot of people also like the 383's but they don't have the zoom head the 285 did. There is a big secondary mkt for the 285/283's, so it's not like you can't pick up a couple. Adorama (the web site) still shows them for sale, but for $149. Seems a little pricey at that range

I'm sorry to hear that. I bought a 283 when they first appeared on the market and I'm still using it.

The Sunpak 383 feels flimsier than the Vivitar 283/285 ever did. Wein offered a replacement metal foot for the Vivitar, which solved one of the most common complaints. But the 383 has some interesting features that might make it a worthwhile substitute.

 

I suspect that one reason Vivitar dropped the 283/285 is because of decreased sales. Wolf and Ritz always push their own Quantaray crap to unsuspecting customers. And it was partly Vivitar's own fault since they didn't appear to make much effort at market penetration any more.

I have both the 285 and two of the Sunpak 383s. The 285 suffered a broken foot when I slapped it, trying to get it to fire, after wasting many frames of film (and digital frames, but they're free). The Sunpak 383 does indeed feel a little flimsier, but it is not flimsy. The reason I went with the 383 is that it tilts AND swivels, as opposed to just tilting (useful in portrait orientation for bouncing). The interface is more intuitive also. I recommend a 383.

There was some voltage fear with newer cameras and the Vivitars.<p><p>

 

<a href="http://www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolts.html">http://www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolts.html</a><p><p>

 

Perhaps that contributed to its demise. I have two different 285 HV's, and they have different voltages (not very high but >6V), and one of them randomly emits full power despite a lower setting.<p><p>

 

The Sunpak 383 seems decent -- tilt and swivel and manual control for not a lot, the same guide number as the 285. Their current trigger voltage target is 6V.<p><p>

I currently own both a Vivitar 285HV and a Sunpak 383. I briefly had a Sunpak 283 but returned it.

 

Sunpak 383: It feels sturdier than the Vivitars. The flash settings are much more straightforward -- no fiddling with color settings! It's more compact than the Vivitar 285.

 

Vivitar 285: Large and plasticy, due to the zoom head. The hotshoe is said to break easily, and doesn't feel sturdy.

 

Vivitar 283: Don't know much about it, I didn't use it much, but I did note that it lacked the fractional fixed flash settings. It can be added via an accessory, at an extra cost of course.

 

Currently, I use the Vivitar 285 as a slave flash with my Sony digicam, via a Wein digital slave trigger. The Sunpak travels with me in my rangefinder kit when I'm using that.

 

If I had the high-voltage AC adapter for the Sunpak (which I have for the Vivitar 285), I could easily forgo using the Vivitar without losing any capabilities.

I have 3 285's and 2 283's yet (not for sale), and will use them til they give up the ghost.

 

I think the 383 is attractive because of the tilt/swivel head, which is useful sometimes, and the manual/auto control, which is as useful as the 285.

 

I have a Sunpak 422 I use when I need a swivel head, for example if I have it on camera in portrait position and want to bounce off a card.

 

I'm not too concerned about the lack of a zoom head. Not that useful to me. If I want a narrow beam I make a snoot out of paper.

I spent 15 years working for newspapers and 10-plus years since then in PR, still in touch with plenty of news photographers. In defense of those who don't like the 283/285, I respectfully point out that these units have lit more photos you have seen in newspapers and magazines over the past 25 years than any other flash ever made. Granted they're not as popular was they once were but plenty are still in use. Once you replace the plastic foot with a metal foot they are hockey pucks that just don't stop. They are the Tri-X and D-76 of on-camera lighting.

I have owned and used the same Vivitar 283 since 1976. I have never broken any part of it, and the thing still works reliably. It does have high voltage output so I don't use it directly on my dSLR, but it slaves fine and is as dependable as ever.

 

For the record, I found its sensor amazingly accurate. Set the aperture, shot thousands and got consistent results. It was also powerful for the money, had versatile options, good battery life, compact and was one of the first to have a 15 minute rechargable NiCad system.

 

Sure, I've got a new flash with the LCD and a myriad of options, but frankly, I get more lost in the menus and waste more time than I did with the simple design of the 283. Set the dial, aperture and shoot. I have used as options: the SC-1 remote cord, VP-1 variable manual dial, and the old (forgotten?) metal 8x10 reflector-card adapter, as well as the 15 minute NiCad system.

 

Frankly, while I admit its old and outdated, its still the most versatile, cost effecient, dependable and easy to use system I have ever used. Its no accident it was manufactured for 30 straight years. I guess every good thing has to come to an end though. Sorry to see it go.

In case you missed it the 285 is back do a search for it on Adorama or B&H

Hi i only have five 283s+ one 285 they are not cheap on eBay no more, (in UK) a 285 HV i was watching made ?52 +p+p so over 100 dollars and most 283 go for ?30-?35 plus. i don't mind a weak foot as you can always put the metal one from eBay for ?3 ea but I'm happier with the plastic 1 as i know i will not damage my camera hot shoe. the 283 is a little more powerful the GN of 283 is 120 at 35mm the 285 GN is 120 zoomed to 50mm it is more if zoomed at to the max but as i never use direct flash all ways bounced / in a brolly/ stofen etc etc then the zoom head becomes irrelevant the shape of the 283 lends its self better for Velcro. the only valid complaint with the vivitars is the head not swirvel like the sunpak 383 but if you look on eBay for i vivitar side grip (PG-1 ? ) it will turn the flash in to a hammerhead with swivel. for on camera use stay away from the made in japan units (early 283) as trigger volts is to high (250v) but fine off camera if used with optical/radio triggers if i only going to use i flash i tend to use the 285 as it got Manuel 1/2 1/4 etc hope this helps Dave

According to a Vivitar rep that I talked to, amateur photographers were no longer buying them. The new amateurs need more bells and whistles and are willing to pay a lot of money for them. That coincides with something I learned from a Kodak rep over 30 years ago. EK had brought out a "new" paper that would be available only in long rolls and only for professional photographers, not photo finishers. While we awaited this "new" paper, it turned out that photo finishers had it months before professionals. At a national convention I confronted this Kodak rep in front of a group of other professional photographers. After "tearing him a new one" for about five solid minutes, he looked at me and said, "Are you finished?" I had drawn quite a crowd by that time and nodded to him with the satisfaction that I had "stood up" to the great yellow God for all of the world's professional photographers. "Let me tell you something, sonny," he said. "Eastman Kodak makes more money from the amateurs on one sunny weekend that they do from all of the professionals in a year." I hadn't thought about that.

I think many photogs spending much time with their lil' ol' 283 back in the day - especially if they attended any photo shows - was that that plastic foot was the first thing to go. Since I didn't use mine as an on- (or -directly above) camera source of light, I didn't care if the metal replacement fit a camera hot shoe or not. It was either bracket-mounted onto the camera, or lived on a light-stand (or sat on a table, chair, bookcase, window ledge, someone's hands, etc. when called into work as a slaved second light.

 

With this forum as a reminder, I'm wanting to dust off those old strobes, and take them out into the light of day (or night) to play again.

I just bought four 283s on eBay for an average of $20.00 each; then went online at B&H and bought Vari-

Sensors for each of them @ $20.00 each. Now I've got four flashes for strobist style lighting that have an infinate range of power settings from 1/64th up to full power - for roughly $40.00 each. You can't beat that with a stick!

<p>You can purchase replacement feet for the Vivitar 285 HV at Midwest Photo Exchange follow these links: <a title="http://www.mpex.com/browse.cfm/4,6390.html" href="http://www.mpex.com/browse.cfm/4,6390.html">http://www.mpex.com/browse.cfm/4,6390.html</a> <br>

<a title="http://www.mpex.com/browse.cfm/4,4615.html" href="http://www.mpex.com/browse.cfm/4,4615.html">http://www.mpex.com/browse.cfm/4,4615.html</a> and a video on how to repair here: <a href="http://ez1photo.com/">http://ez1photo.com/</a></p>