Remote firing of D200 for family portrait

I am interested in taking a portrait of my family using my D200. I've done

this in the past with my CoolPix 5700, setting the self timer and running back

and forth to get in the frame. In many of the shots someone isn't looking at

the camera, or has an unusual expression on their face, etc., you know the

routine. What I'd like to do is set the D200 up to fire continuously,

preferably with exposure bracketing, for 20 or 30 shots while I just stand

comfortably in the picture with everyone else. Even better, I'd like to cause

the camera to do this (trigger the multiple sequence) using a remote control

of some sort, e.g., ML-3.

 

First of all, can the multiple sequence be done with exposure bracketing?

Secondly, can it be done using the ML-3? and third, is there an alternative to

the ML-3? I've read a not-so-favorable review of the ML-3, indicating that

it's somewhat difficult to set up, and that there is no positive feedback to

tell the user that the remote is in line or the shot has been fired. Also,

it's an IR device, so I think I'd need line-of-site, meaning that my pictures

would include me pointing an ML-3 at the camera.

Check this out: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=407310&is=REG&addedTroughType=categoryNavigation

You set the D200 for exposure bracketing and fire multiple frames per second. The ML-3 has nothing to do with that.

 

Don't know why it would be difficult to set up. You just plug in the receiver to the 10-pin connector and, transmitter in hand, you're good to go.

 

Yes it is line of sight, so the transmitter has to be within a reasonable distance from the receiver. You can obviously manually (by hand) trigger the exposure just like any remote trigger would, OR you can use the auto trigger function.

 

The auto trigger option allows you set up the transmitter and receiver (and camera) on separate tripods to automatically trigger anytime that line of sight is breached. You'll need fast AFS lenses, or preset the focus with sufficient DOF.

 

Other alternatives do exist, but I have no experience with them.

 

KL

I've not tried it with bracketing, but I'm about certain the intervalometer that is in the camera can do it. I use it from time to time and it is easy to setup. I took the following picture and had it take an exposure every five seconds since I am the one on the couch.

http://tannerphotography.net/single_peep.php?year=Family&sub=Ashley&im=TNR_0139.JPG

 

I've also used it to take pictures of the fireworks so I could watch them with my wife and for the same reason to catch lightning.

 

http://tannerphotography.net/lots_pics.php?year=2006&sub=San%20Jose%20Fireworks

 

http://tannerphotography.net/lots_pics.php?year=2006&sub=Lightning%20Atlanta

 

It seems to be what you are looking for and you don't need to spend $100. Just tell it to take 50 pictures and to take one every second or something. Its in the menu.

BTW, the receiver connects to the body via the 10-pin connector, so it does NOT have to be on the hotshoe. It can be oriented to face up/down/front/back -- so you don't have to be in the picture if you don't want to be.

Paul, what you suggested is a wired remote control with a 33-inch cord. That kind of length is probably only good for self-portrait head shots. :-)

Use the built in intervalometer.

Thanks for your suggestions. I think the intervalometer is the answer. I just received the camera on Saturday, so I hadn't gotten that far in the manual. I'd rather have some kind of wireless solution, like the ML-L3 for the lower end DSLRS, but the intervalometer will probably do the job. Great pictures of the fireworks, Jason. I would have expected more noise with such a dark background and apparently long exposures.

Ben, my suggestion is to use a wireless remote so that you can get everybody ready and then press the (remote) shutter release. Anything that automatically takes a shot every so many seconds is not going to work very well with groups because it is hard to get everybody to smile for a long time. In particular, if there are kids, most likely they won't fully cooperate.

 

It is important that you can control when the shutter fires so that you can get everybody to be ready each time. And try not to shoot more than 2, 3 shots. After that, people will start getting tired of it.

"My suggestion is to use a wireless remote so that you can get everybody ready and then press the (remote) shutter release ..."

 

I agree. That's what I'd rather do, but I don't know what to use for a wireless remote. The only one I know of is the ML-3, and that suffers from the drawback I mentioned above (since it's line-of-site it will be visible in the photo). If you have an idea, I'd be glad to hear it.

I have an ML-3 and I think it works just fine. It uses infrared technology so that line of sight is a must. I don't see why being seen holding a remote control in the picture is such a major problem, but if it is for you, you can set your camera on a 2-second self-timer to give you a chance to put the remote away; put it in a pocket or hide it behind another person ....

 

A major part of photography is knowing when to shoot. There are a few exceptions such as lightning photography or certain indoor fine art situations, but when you shoot people, timing is a critical part. If there are small children, even that 2-second delay can be a major problem.