355mm Repro-claron

I've got a 355 repro-claron in barrel (NOT G claron).

 

I'm wondering, is it worth getting it put in a shutter, which is

going to cost quite a bit, or just flogging it as is on ebay....

 

Anyone out there using one?

The Repro-Claron is a dialyte design, similar to the Apo-Ronar, Artar and Apo-Nikkor. It is a symmetrical design optimized for 1:1. The coverage is narrow compared to the G-Claron.

 

Some of these Schneider barrel lenses unscrew, yielding two cells that screw into a shutter. It is worth checking. However, some 355 mm Repro-Clarons were made for the #2 shutter size, which is rare today. If it doesn't screw directly into a shutter, it probably isn't worth purchasing a shutter and having custom machining done; selling it and using the money towards a 360 mm Apo-Ronar or 355 mm G-Claron already mounted in a shutter would probably make more sense.

 

As Arne Croell recently noted on an old thread, http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=0035DS, the Repro-Clarons are moderately radioactive. I have verified this with Geiger counter measurements of another Repro-Claron. The radioactivity is from thorium in a high-refractive index, low dispersion glass.

Tim, It's worth it. I love mine. Wait for a junker 210 Xenar 4.5 in Compound to show up at the E*** place and the 355 whould be a direct fit. That's if you have the one with 55-56mm threads. If you've got the smaller 45mm threads you'd need the no.2 but they're out there too. It's great on 4X5 and 5X7 but not any good for 8X10. jg

The radioactive lenses in the Repro-Claron (the convex outer ones) are usually yellowed to some extent. This is more pronounced with the bigger lenses due to the higher lens volume (i.e. it is obvious in the 355mm). If you want to use it for color, I would think twice about it. For b/w, it should be ok, like a built in light yellow filter.

 

I do have a 355mm in a Compur 2, where I did have some sharpness problems, described in an older thread:

 

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=003qoe

 

As a followup to the problems described in the old thread, I got the specs (drawings) from Schneider, but could not find any significant deviation from the specs as far as cell spacing, at least not with the accuracy of a normal caliper. So this mystery is not solved yet. I intend to send mine to Schneider for checking, but haven't done it yet. I also have used a 210mm Repro-Claron which is quite sharp, so I am convinced that the problem with my 355mm is an individual one.

It might be a good idea to test the one you're considering, however.

Just a follow up inquiry as to the 355mm repro-claron,

Arne, you stated: "As a followup to the problems described in the old thread, I got the specs (drawings) from Schneider, but could not find any significant deviation from the specs as far as cell spacing, at least not with the accuracy of a normal caliper"

 

Do you know what the schneider specs stated the cell spacing should be? I just received a 355mm repro-claron in it barrel (sn11708090) which has the "yellow" tint you referred to and the cells fit directly in a copal 3s shutter. As best as I can tell with my calipers, when in the barrel, the end to end width is 63mm and when installed int the copal 3s shutter it is 59.11mm. I have not tried it on the Deardorff V8 yet, but hope to mount the lens this weekend. Any input or advice is appreciated. Thanks. Jon

An almost 4 mm change in the cell spacing is a radical change which is almost certainly a problem. If your measurements are correct, I don't think the lens cells were designed to directly transfer to this shutter. Perhaps it actually fits a Compound shutter.

 

You can clear the "yellow" tint with UV light. To me, the color is more like tea.. Light from a blacklight BLB fluorescent bulb will work, but several weeks of exposure will be needed. Direct sunlight will also work, probably in less time. For example, see http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=005obo

Jon, as Jim Galli remarked, there are 2 thread versions around. The one you have seems to be the one that directly fits a Compound 3 shutter, Michael is right in his suspicion. Note that Compounds came in a few different versions with respect to the spacing, so you have to get the right one or have adapter rings made. The one I was referring to in my old post was the version for Compur 2, so those measurements won't help you.

Mike, Arne: Thank you for your assistance. I realized that 4mm would be too much, but did not realize the optimum distance between cells would not apply to the copal 3s. I just now need to experiment with the cells to determine what distance works best and get the spacers to make the cells properly stationary.

 

When I described the yellow tint in my initial post, I meant to describe that both cells are a nice, clean, and blue tinted. Both cells reflect 3 sets of images, but the center image on the fron cell has a definite yellow tint. Is this the yellow tint which you are referring to in this thread?

Thanks again. Jon

Jon, the yellow tint is not a reflection color from the coating, its when you look through the lens, for example at a white piece of paper. Its easiest to see if you take a lens cell, put it on a piece of paper and compare the paper color as seen through the lens cell with the normal white paper color. If there is a yellowish-brownish cast, thats it. And if one cell shows it, the other should too, as they are symmetric. Late versions of the Repro-Claron may not be radioactive and won't show the color.

One additional information: I have a 355mm Repro-Claron with a 115xxxxx serial no., which is radioactive, and a 305mm one with a number 135xxxxx, which isn't. These serial numbers are in 1970 and 1978-1979, respectively. I also have a 135mm Xenotar with a serial no. 114xxxxx, which is not radioactive, whereas older Xenotars are. That would be 1969-1970. So it appears Schneider phased out the Thorium glasses in the early 1970's.