- shtativ Posted September 23, 2006 Share Posted September 23, 2006 Hello! Advise how to process Tri-X, HP5 + and Neopan1600 for reception the big beautiful grain of the round form. The grain should be round- it`s very important. I did not like results with T-grain films- as though on a negative have scattered needle sand... If to you it is not difficult, share please examples of photos. Yours faithfully, Andrew Shtativ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrydressler Posted September 23, 2006 Share Posted September 23, 2006 Tri-X rated at 1600 3 minutes in Dektol diluted 1-1 as a starting point. Tri-X in Rodinal 1-50 Rated 3200. 33 minutes as simi Stand.... Adj. for the first 10 seconds the 2 inversions every 10 minutes. last 3 minutes wait to drain. Use these as starting points then adjust from there Try this. Larry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelging Posted September 23, 2006 Share Posted September 23, 2006 There was a AP sports photographer named Sam Houston , who would shoot night sports on tri-x at 1600 ,and develope the film in Dektol at 100 degrees for 30sec with constant agitation. He had pretty good images with BIG GRAIN.This was with the old tri-x, your results may vary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wolf_rainer_schmalfuss Posted September 23, 2006 Share Posted September 23, 2006 Hi Andrew, if you're looking for BIG FAT ROUND GRAIN,try the Chinese "LUCKY 400"! Regards Rainer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank.schifano Posted September 23, 2006 Share Posted September 23, 2006 I'll second that vote for Lucky 400. It's cheap, but it's a pretty nasty film. Expecting an EI of 400 from it is probably unrealistic. A very nice film, though by no means inexpensive, for big fat round grain is Delta 3200. It does not have the "scattered needle" like look that you describe getting from the other films. Exposed at 1600 and developed in a common developer like D-76 for the recommended time will get you a somewhat low contrast negative. But that's not a problem. It will hold shadow detail very well and if you choose, the contrast can be bumped up during printing or digital post processing with the photo editor of your choice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bljkasfdljkasfdljskfa Posted September 23, 2006 Share Posted September 23, 2006 FWIW I've gotten very sharp, but not the typical popcorn unsharp grain out of Delta 3200. IIRC I used dilute Xtol or Microphen. I've never seen round grain. I don't think grain can be round, but would be nice to see if you can get it rounded. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al_divenuti Posted September 23, 2006 Share Posted September 23, 2006 I'd agree with Frank, Delta 3200 is the king of big, round, somewhat fuzzy grain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bljkasfdljkasfdljskfa Posted September 23, 2006 Share Posted September 23, 2006 Might try high-sulfite developers as well. They dissolve grains' edges. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big toys are better Posted September 23, 2006 Share Posted September 23, 2006 Try the Rodinal and TX trick for sure, or HP5, either pushed a couple of stops. IF the grain isn't quite what you want, adding a bit of sodium sulfite will do two things-- "round" the grain a bit and also boost the effective film speed. However, without the sulfite it should look very nice, and by using higher dilutions such as 1:100, and agitating only every 3 or 4 minutes, you should get an enhanced effect in the grains. I suspect this would work with a 3200 speed film in the same manner but without pushing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stephen hazelton Posted September 23, 2006 Share Posted September 23, 2006 The neatest grain I've gotten in my limited experience was shooting Tmax 3200 (at EI 3200), I think just D76- a neat salt-and-pepper look, enhanced by high-contrast printing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffrey_e Posted September 24, 2006 Share Posted September 24, 2006 The attached was done with Ilford Delta 3200 rated at 3200 and developed in Kodak D-76 with 10% more development time given to add to the contrast. The scan pretty much shows the grain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bljkasfdljkasfdljskfa Posted September 25, 2006 Share Posted September 25, 2006 http://www.photo.net/photo/3894446 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrydressler Posted September 25, 2006 Share Posted September 25, 2006 Dan I like that one. Larry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bljkasfdljkasfdljskfa Posted September 25, 2006 Share Posted September 25, 2006 Thanks. That one was done IIRC in either very diluted Xtol or diluted Microphen, or stock Xtol. I can't remember, but the print has very sharp, detailed grain, and it's not popcorny, fluffy, round or very large. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrydressler Posted September 25, 2006 Share Posted September 25, 2006 Shucks we need .JPGS here LOL<div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bljkasfdljkasfdljskfa Posted September 25, 2006 Share Posted September 25, 2006 I don't care for notes or perfection. Just the results. Some day I'll be forced to develop a certain film organization discipline (If I start finally producing inspiring work). It makes a lot of sense to simplify as well. I use Diafine and Microphen mostly for pushing interchangeably, and I think I'll drop Microphen. PC-TEA for non-pushed film, and now trying out 510-pyro to replace PC-TEA, but many people seem to be "testing" or "experimentation"- oriented shooting test charts and other garbage, keeping a zillion bagillion developers, a million cameras and a billion lenses. Testing developers for ages instead of trying to create artwork. I just don't see the fun in that :). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrydressler Posted September 25, 2006 Share Posted September 25, 2006 Dan Life is a test on us so we may as well test it... I think I will hold onto 3 of them long term. D-76, Diafine and Rodinal. I shoot Sub Mini to 4x5. 4x5 camera is gone but working on getting a new one.... I will shoot almost any type of B&W film and I find I have more choice these days than I did in the 70's Keep shooting and the worst that can happen is you and I get it right. Larry<div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardw Posted September 25, 2006 Share Posted September 25, 2006 Hello, I tried 120 film Delta 3200 rated at ISO 1600, contrast of the scene was 2 1/2 stops so I expanded development of 25 percent in ID11 1:1, the print was made with condenser enlarger on Ilford Multigrade with filter 2. The enlargement is 8x10 so you clearly can see the grain in the print (especially the dark background), the scan just gives an idea, but my intention was big grain for this sujet. on 35mm film grain would be even more. http://www.photo.net/photo/4989479 regards Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lex_jenkins Posted September 25, 2006 Share Posted September 25, 2006 In addition to keeping photos you wish to appear within the context of a thread to 511 pixels wide or narrower, please try to keep them smaller than 100 KB in file size. A JPEG of those dimensions seldom needs to be any larger. It's inconsiderate to folks using slower connections. Linking to photos posted elsewhere, either in ones photo.net folders or personal website, is a good alternative to posting them within the context of a thread. This way readers aren't forced to wait for photos to load, or to change the behavior of their browsers by arbitrarily locking out all images. Try to keep photos strictly relevant to the topic. For example, a JPEG that has been resized/resampled downward will not demonstrate the grain characteristics of the original. Only a 1:1 example from the print or scan will demonstrate the grain characteristics reasonably well. The photos linked by Jeffrey and Dan appear to show the grain characteristics of their photos more accurately than others posted here. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardw Posted September 26, 2006 Share Posted September 26, 2006 Hello, so here's a part of the original, sorry for above mistake. http://www.photo.net/photo/4999878 regards Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete_andrews10 Posted September 27, 2006 Share Posted September 27, 2006 Hmmm! Here's a thread on big grain, and nobody's mentioned Rodinal yet. What's wrong with you people? Take ANY fast film you like, and soup it in Rodinal @ 1:25. Job done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrydressler Posted September 27, 2006 Share Posted September 27, 2006 Sorry did you see my post on the top? I did mention it and also another poster did agree with me. And as for the problem LEX I am sorry that I made it sized to your limits and thoes of the current Management. I will limit them in future to a link and self limit that is within the limits of paying members that I am. Thank you for your kindness. The Red Neck Jew Larry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
- shtativ Posted September 27, 2006 Author Share Posted September 27, 2006 Thanks a lot for all! Very beautiful photos you share! For me most prefer photo by Larry Dressler! The grain is sharp and fantastic! How you dilute rodinal for this negative and in what temperature you develop the EFKE? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrydressler Posted September 27, 2006 Share Posted September 27, 2006 Thank you Andrew I used it at 1-50 20C shot for adverage lighting with the in camera meter of a cheap assed Vivatar 4000 with the lens that came with it a 35-70 mm. I traded with a fellow on WWW.nelsonfoto.com for a Yashica range finder camera to get the 4000. I used the times on Massive Dev Chart. Larry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrydressler Posted September 27, 2006 Share Posted September 27, 2006 -= Shtativ Sorry I said Andrew I ment that for you ... Translation into my language was almost correct. Larry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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