olivier_reichenbach Posted May 1, 2005 Share Posted May 1, 2005 I have finished about a dozen frames in a roll of APX 100 at ISO 100, only to realize afterwards that it had started its career at ISO 50. That's more than one stop, right? What would be the best EI to pick to process it in etiher DDX or Xtol? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andre_noble4 Posted May 1, 2005 Share Posted May 1, 2005 The box ASA is almost ALWAYS overated by a stop anyways. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olivier_reichenbach Posted May 1, 2005 Author Share Posted May 1, 2005 Let's say I'll go a little bit over EI 50, like 15 seconds more. How's that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris_waller Posted May 1, 2005 Share Posted May 1, 2005 Develop as if the whole roll were 100 ASA. Your 50 ASA frames will be a little dense and contrasty but they'll print. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lex_jenkins Posted May 3, 2005 Share Posted May 3, 2005 APX 100 is reasonably forgiving. I think it'll handle a little underexposure better than it will overdevelopment. I'm with the advice to develop for EI 50 and let the EI 100 frames take care of themselves. Or - giving the advice I'd take myself - develop for the most important frames, regardless of what the exposures were. If I expose the first half of a roll of Tri-X at 400 and am forced by circumstance to shoot the rest at 3200, well ... if the first half was a bunch of boring architectural studies that I could go back and do over while the second half is of Paris Hilton caught streaking ... I think I'll develop for the more unusual stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gonzalo_echeverria Posted May 4, 2005 Share Posted May 4, 2005 hi Olivier, two bath developers are great for this situation - esp. d23 with alkaline afterbath. or partial stand development with diluted developer eg. rodinal 1:100 normal agitation for first 5 minutes ( agitate for first min. then 10sec per min ) then stand for 20 min. this with ensure that the highlights remain within printing range and good tonal separation. i've used this technique combining daylight and nighttime exposures with good results. hope it helps . gonzalo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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