Best developer for Neopan 1600

Please could you advise on the best developer for Neopan 1600 (and

also the time/temp). I was using DD-X 1+9 with excellent results but

it is now hard to find.

"best" is extremely relative.......and my answer probably goes against the norm, but I love the look of Neopan 1600 in PMK Pyro. digitaltruth.com massive developing chart is a good place to start....but I personally made it ISO1250 at 10 1/2 minutes and followed the rest of their recommendations.

DD-X is a phenidone based developer. If you like the look it gives then you can get similar results from other phenidone based developers. Thes include Edwal FG-7 (1:15 with 9% sodium sulfite solution), Clayton F60 (1:9), NACCO Super 76 and Ilford Microphen. The Microphen might be hard to get. You should be able to get both the Clayton F60 and the NACCO Super 76 from Freestyle in California (www.freestylephoto.biz). Either of these should be poured into glass bottles for better keeping.

DDX ought to be back on the shelves now... my local Jessop's has it.

Yes, DD-X is now very available again. A dozen bottles on the shelf at the local Calumet in Cambridge, MA. Cap is black now, not red.

Hi Lawrence,

Best developer for such and such film is usually very subjective and hard to answer but I can't resist this one as the answer is so obvious in my eyes: XTOL.

 

With neopan 1600, XTOL gives an incredible negative. it is fantastic in my opinion. Also xtol is nice on environment, easy to use and find and quite cheap.

 

sebastien

I was looking for developing times for the same film.

Unfortunatelly, what I've available it's only rodinal special: Any suggestion on the time? Or shall I use microphen (i still have a box of powder).

Thanks

Many thanks for all the replies. It seems that DD-X is now available again, so I'll take another trip to the camera shop. -- Lawrence

Lawrence

 

I burn my Neopan 1600 @ 1250, and the lab soups it in X-Tol. I've always gotten very good and consistent negs.

 

Russ

Delfo asked about times for Neopan 1600 in Rodinal Special (=Studional)

 

Agfa's film dev pdf says 3min at 20degC in small tank (I assume inversion tank) for gamma (contrast)=0.65 which might be a bit on the contrasty side. They suggest a speed of 800.

 

Rodinal Special is a phenidone + hydroquinone developer like Microphen, so should be quite suitable, but the short time would require great care to prevent unevennesss.

I like Neopan 1600 in Paterson Aculux-2.

 

<img src="http://fototime.com/{0B713F36-DF95-40DA-B75B-EBA18A158BB8}/

picture.JPG">

SPIDER,<br>

<p>

What dilution and time do you use for Neopan 1600 in Aculux 2? Do you exposed at 1600? I wasn't able to get good results with this combination.

</p>

--<br>

richard vanek<br>

<a href="http://piskoftak.com/">http://piskoftak.com/</a><br>

Here are the details Richard. Ricoh GR1s, Fuji Neopan 1600, EI 800. The film was

developed in Aculux 2 that was diluted to 1+14 with distilled water. Temp 20 C. Time 21

minutes. Agitation limited to an initial 20 seconds of gentle swirling inversions, then 10

seconds of gentle inversion every 3 minutes thereafter. Ilford Fixer. Scanned at 2900 dpi

on Nikon Super Coolscan 4000. Post processing was limited to auto contrast, which was

very minor. No level adjustment or sharpening.

 

In my limited experience with Neopan 1600 and various developers, I have found that I get

my best results with EI 800, higher dilutions, extended times, and limited agitation.

I've been fooling around NEOPAN 1600. What I've found is that for EI800 many developers work fine. I like diluted Microphen fot that EI.<BR>

For EI1600 and above, as SPIDER said, a combination of higher dilution, extended times and limited agitation works. My current choice is Fuji Fujidol-E 1:3. If you don't have an access to Fujidol-E, Kodak Xtol would be fine.<BR><div></div>

<p>

I was through my older negatives and have found Fuji Neopan 400 exposed at 1600 and developed in two bath compensating developer Tetenal Emofin. I was so amazed that I print it yesterday and put on my web as well ( <a href="http://piskoftak.com/photo/2004-93-28/">first</a> and <a href="http://piskoftak.com/photo/2004-93-32/">second</a>). Take a look this is great. The grain (which you can't really see from jpeg, what you see is jpeg compression results) is as little as Neopan 400 and tonality is very very nice. I have prints here in front of me 20x30 cm and details are in highlights and shadows. Grain is very little.

</p>

 

 

--<br>

richard vanek<br>

<a href="http://piskoftak.com/">http://piskoftak.com/</a><br>