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Which B&W film


brian_walton

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I've been away from the B&W game for decades. Films must have

changed a little since my days with FP4.

 

What would the group suggest for portrait work via 120 film that

gives spendid tones and fine grain.

 

I have been told that Ilford Delta is good. I require quite a slow

film in the 80-160 range.

 

with thanks

 

Brian

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Welcome back, Brian.

 

Ilford T-grain films (Delta 100, 400, 3200; Kodak TMX, TMY, TMZ; Fuji Acros) are amazing films, but they have shorter middle tone ranges than conventional grain films (FP4+, Tri-X, NeoPan 400, HP5+). I only use a T grain film for portraiture if I want to shown every line and wrinkle, for effect. For most things, my preference is NeoPan 400 at ISO 250.

 

Good shooting.

 

/s/ David Beal * Memories Preserved Photography, LLC

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I think the one big change in the past few decades is that T-grained films have appeared, like others said. You could search the galleries on the net to get an idea about what they look like, and maybe give them a try yourself. They are definitely fine-grained, but personally I never liked their looks for portraiture. I think they have somewhat "dull" tones, but that's quite a personal interpretation of the word.

 

Other films they usually compare to FP4+ are Fuji Acros and Kodak Plus-X, but I haven't tried either of those, because I have been happy with the FP4+.

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Things really haven't changed all that much unless you want to try Ilford's Delta films or Kodak's T-Max films.

 

There are many b&w films that are perfectly suitable for obtaining fine results in medium format. Of the films I've used, among the easiest to get desirable results from (assuming you want the best possible results in the traditional sense) are FP4+, HP5+, Tri-X (400) and APX 100.

 

With FP4+ and HP5+ I've gotten excellent results rating them at half the nominal speed and developing in ID-11 using the 1+1 dilution. With FP4+ at EI 64 in average lighting I'll develop for 9 minutes at 68F, or vary the time accordingly for contrastier or flatter lighting.

 

TMX (T-Max 100) can also provide striking portraits but this film is a bit trickier to work with. It's pickier about lighting, exposure and development. If I was using studio lighting I would try to avoid the risk of blocked up highlights - for example, I probably would not use strong backlighting. It's usually best at EI 64-80 and developed with careful attention to time and temperature. However to keep things simple I usually shoot it at the rated speed of 100 and develop in Microphen - this combination seems to provide more consistant results with little risk of blocked up highlights. The grain is slightly increased compared with TMX in other developers, but TMX is such a fine grain film that the difference is negligible.

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If you must have the finest grain without tackling tabular grain films like T-MAX and Delta then I would recommend FP4+ in XTOL or DD-X.

 

But I would highly recommend shooting a roll of APX 100 in Rodinal 1:50 just to try something different. You may well like it and the grain isn't all the obtrusive at 11X14.

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I use Delta 100 almost exclusively rating it at 50 ASA and deving in Rodinal 1:50, 20 C, 8 minutes. I use it both in 35mm and 120. In 35mm I can make 16x12 enlargements with minimal grain but in 120 (from a Mamiya RB67) the results are superb. Also in 120 I would recommend Agfa APX100, from which, although grain is slightly more evident, tonality is excellent.
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I'll agree with others above and say FP4+, easily. In 120, it'll be beautiful.

 

I don't much enjoy Deltra or Tmax tabular grain films.. their tonality and grain-look just causes me to make the sour-lemon face.

 

If you can work with a slower film, Ilford PanF Plus 50 is hard to beat. Some of the best portraits I've ever seen were taken with that film in 120 format. My own work with it in 35mm has been satisfying as long as you're careful of its contrast.

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