andrew_bradnan Posted February 21, 2005 Share Posted February 21, 2005 Not sure if this is the best forum, but here goes. Using a wide angle lens (10-22mm) is there much visual differencebetween a lens using the higher f-stops? Ergo using f-8 vs. f-45? Contrast, flare, definition? Better to use ISO 400 and a longer shutter speed? Just wondering what's optimal for a shot like that. Thanks,Andrew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelging Posted February 21, 2005 Share Posted February 21, 2005 Andrew ,,The smaller F-stop will give your highlights little star cross on them.The real person to ask about this is right here on photo net. I think his night time photos are the best I have seen. Email him and and ask him. http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder?folder_id=92909 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul - Posted February 22, 2005 Share Posted February 22, 2005 The more you stop down, the more <a href="http://www.google.com/custom?q=diffraction&domains=www.photo.net&sitesearch=photo.net&client=pub-1734703147688622&forid=1&ie=ISO-8859-1&oe=ISO-8859-1&cof=L%3Ahttp%3A%2F%2Fwww.photo.net%2Fgraphics%2Fanimated_photonet_logo.gif%3BGALT%3A%230066CC%3BGL%3A1%3BDIV%3A%23999999%3BVLC%3A336633%3BAH%3Acenter%3BBGC%3AFFFFFF%3BLBGC%3AFFFFFF%3BALC%3A0066CC%3BLC%3A0066CC%3BT%3A000000%3BGFNT%3A666666%3BGIMP%3A666666%3BFORID%3A1%3B&hl=en">diffraction</a> you will get. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cts Posted February 22, 2005 Share Posted February 22, 2005 Hello, Andrew.<p> Thank you Michael for praising my work. I'll answer here instead of replying to mail, other people may be interested.<p> The best f-stop I use is usually f5.6 or f8. But for you, this depends on the lens you use. For my lenses (Nikon zooms, f2.8 to f22) this is the best sharpness performance.<p> If I want to have branches around spots of light, I may use f11. Higher, it is said there is more diffraction. But again, you should know your lenses performance, which may be different than mine.<p> For example, I have a Sony DSC-V3 that has an f-stop range from f2.8 to f8. On some reviews it is said to be best at f4. And at f8 it may have some diffraction problems. I didn't test it yet, but I'll do it soon, just to be sure.<p> About flare: I often use the lens' hood. Yes, by night. Either for avoiding parasite reflections, or for protecting the front lens from rain. About flare, avoid lights in the limit of the frame, they will produce a halo of parasite light. Or compose <i>with</i> the light. Using a UV filter may also cause unwanted internal reflections invisible to the eye, but very visible on the film.<p> About ISO, when I use films I use 50, 64 or 100 ISO. My beloved is Provia 100. I'm also experimenting Kodak E100VS (very saturated, ONLY by night) and sometimes Reala 100. With digital, I stay at 100 ISO for minimum noise. And alaways use a tripod. A table-top tripod is often useful, especially for my lightweight Sony camera.<p> For further info, you can read <a href="http://www.thenocturnes.com">http://www.thenocturnes.com</a>, and his resources page, or buy a good book on night photography. I have this one (in french): <a href="http://www.amazon.fr/exec/obidos/ASIN/2862581801/qid=1109112097/sr=1-16/ref=sr_1_8_16/171-3762868-5329852">La photographie de nuit</a>. Also, the <a href="http://www.fredparker.com/ultexp1.htm">Ultimate exposure computer</a>, which could be helpful to estimate the right exposure, even if now with histograms it is much more easier ...<p> At last: don't judge your night pitcures from prints made at your local photo shop. They often use "standard" settings that "crop" the shadow and highlight details of your negative. To be sure, use slide film, and bracket. With digital, shoot like it was slide, and bracket like a fool ... :-)))<p> Feel free to ask any question, I'm glad to transmit some experience. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david_haynes Posted February 23, 2005 Share Posted February 23, 2005 Another often used technique when doing cityscapes of the city's lights is to try to work at dusk or dawn, when there is an afterglow in the sky that avoids making it totally black and gives the buildings something the be set against. This can also give the photo a very appealing color palette. I usually try to do a series beginning just after sundown and continuing for an hour or so until all the light is gone. There's usually one image where the lighting all comes into a "balance" that pleases me. Good Luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david_thrower Posted February 25, 2005 Share Posted February 25, 2005 Hi Andrew, I shoot a lot of buildings at night and I use either a Canon 10D or Kodak SLR/C. I tend to use f8-11 as a norm, and I always work in the 30 mins before sunset to around 45 minutes after as you get a deep blue sky. When the sky goes black I usually shoot close up details if required by the client, unless the building is lit with coloured light - in this instance sometime an inky black sky is best. If you have to have bright lights in the frame you can always use a black or grey card to cover a small part of the frame for a proportion of the exposure to reduce glare - I use this method quite a bit but it is trial and error to a certain degree. My web site is www.redshift-photography.co.uk where I have some pics of buildings at night. Best regards Dave Thrower Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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