gene_e._mccluney Posted October 9, 2006 Share Posted October 9, 2006 I see that Lucky (brand) b/w film is available in the USA from at least one vendor. All I know is that this is Chinese made. Does anyone have any experience and examples from this brand? McCluney Photo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard_f1 Posted October 9, 2006 Share Posted October 9, 2006 I've used but not printed the 120 format Lucky film. It is ok. Nothing amazing, but not total crap. I use it in my Shanghai TLR, so I can't tell how much of the average quality is due to the film and how much to the lens. It only costs 7 rmb (less than US$1) a roll here, so I don't mind that it isn't pin sharp etc. It's fine for having fun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evan_goulet Posted October 9, 2006 Share Posted October 9, 2006 If you search the forum here, you will find a few threads with examples and developer suggestions. Basically the consensus seems to be good for a cheap film. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stephen hazelton Posted October 9, 2006 Share Posted October 9, 2006 Seems like I saw it in the Freestyle catalog. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris_waller Posted October 9, 2006 Share Posted October 9, 2006 I bought some about 18 months ago. It had no anti-halation layer so the rendering of highlights was poor but I have heard that recent production does include an AH layer. If that is the case then it should be good for the price. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gloom Posted October 9, 2006 Share Posted October 9, 2006 agree with above mentioned. I'm from China and it's my favourite CHEAP solution, however, I prefer Kodak 400TX. Lucky SHD100 in China normally cost around 6 RMB(0.75USD). Pro: Cheap, not so bad hiberarchy & tone Con: Layer is too thin, huddles, easy to get messed up. Highlight overflow, flare. Personally I use Kodak HC-110 B for development, 20C, 6 mintues it's may need a little more fixing time. my solution: Kodak rapid fix solution A+B, 4 minutes some longer wash time +1,+2 minutes, seems no need for any wash aid, coz it is cheap, huh ? Enjoy it. At the same time, I recommend another China made B/W file: ERA Layber is much better, and no more highlight flare. price is the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gloom Posted October 9, 2006 Share Posted October 9, 2006 Here is the performance of EAR FP100<div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leon_yuhanov Posted October 10, 2006 Share Posted October 10, 2006 I use lucky extencively in my 645. I use mostly 100 and 400 iso Lucky, 100 iso Shanghai brand and i have used TMAX. The lucky brand stuff is just as good as TMAX but harder to load. The film is a bit different in thickness. APpart from that the quality of the pictures themselves is same as TMAX(TMY). Lucky Good points: Cheap, plentifull, same as TMY Lucky Bad points: Curls more then TMY after development, so you have to keep it flat, the sticker at the end of teh roll does not stick properly(thats where kodak puts all the money the .0002 cents of extra glue) Leon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrydressler Posted October 10, 2006 Share Posted October 10, 2006 I have used it both 120 and 35mm. in both 100 and 400 the older film did not have a great AH layer but the new release does.... it is a pretty good film as long as you are not wanting anything close to Modern T-X in the 400 but the older stuff is beautiful in D-76 and Rodinal... It still reminds me of the Tri-X from the early 70's. Larry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jukka_lehmus Posted October 10, 2006 Share Posted October 10, 2006 I've used 35mm 100 ASA. The film base is almost perfectly clear, no dyes, but rather thin and curly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrydressler Posted October 10, 2006 Share Posted October 10, 2006 The base is so clear I wonder how it would do as a positive slide. Larry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elroy_yee Posted October 10, 2006 Share Posted October 10, 2006 Just developed my only roll of SHD400 35mm. The base is clear and it does curl quite a bit. I think my roll was defective because I have a weird contrast line going through every frame. Is this called "fogging"? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrydressler Posted October 11, 2006 Share Posted October 11, 2006 Elroy Could we see a scan? Larry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gloom Posted October 11, 2006 Share Posted October 11, 2006 I've got some Scanned by Nikon V ED<div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrydressler Posted October 11, 2006 Share Posted October 11, 2006 Here is one from some Lucky 100 that I over developed in Rodinal... it still turned out useable. Larry<div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrydressler Posted October 11, 2006 Share Posted October 11, 2006 And I ment could Elroy show us one of his from the possable faulty roll to see what the fault may be..... Larry<div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elroy_yee Posted October 11, 2006 Share Posted October 11, 2006 Hi Larry, I don't currently have a scanner. I've been trying to find one though. If I can get one soon enough, i'll post it. It's weird. 3/4 of the frame is exposed correctly, but the other 1/4 is obviously darker. It's consistent frame to frame, and the "line" looks perfectly straight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrydressler Posted October 11, 2006 Share Posted October 11, 2006 OK next question Elroy Were you using a flash? and the other next Question.. if you processed it yourself are you sure you had enough chems in the tank....? The reason I ask is I have seen flash synch that could cause that and also bad processing.... I have made enough mistakes.. just check my threads here... LOL It is not a bad film I think it is very useful but I think the ERA 100 is a better film.... China is an emerging place and alot of their films are new to those of us here in the West... I like to try new films and I think I have tryed alot but then there is a new one I have not tryed... Check out my portfolio and you will see what I mean... I just used a roll of Gekko film that is made suposedly by Maco and it looked a whole lot like the Era 100.... Hmmmmmmm I have not posted the Gekko film yet because I want to try it in alot of other developers.... Used flatbed scanners are real cheap if you have a second hand store in your area... I just found one for my daughter for $2.00 and got the drivers for it in 3 minutes off the internet with a google search the drivers are free off the internet. You can scan a print if be needed and make it usable on the internet. Keep shooting silver film and smile Larry Larry<div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elroy_yee Posted October 11, 2006 Share Posted October 11, 2006 Thanks Larry. I didn't use a flash, and I thought I had enough chemicals, but didn't really notice. I've seen scans of the film, so I know it's decent. I still have a roll of SHD100 at home I need to try. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrydressler Posted October 11, 2006 Share Posted October 11, 2006 Elroy you may want to refix the film and see if that changes things.... If you already have them high rez scanned it just may be a moment of too low fixer level... Larry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gene_e._mccluney Posted October 11, 2006 Author Share Posted October 11, 2006 The dark 1/3 of the frame, consistent, could be an issue of shutter capping. McCluney Photo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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