Need Help w/ film/developer combo

Hello All-

 

Your collective wisdom is much needed.

 

I've been commisioned by a non-profit organization to produce a series of studio

portraits via a grant received. To help them keep their costs down and because

they are a worthy cause, I'm donating my time and will be processing and

printing the series myself.

 

To that end, i'll be working with 6x9cm negatives (120 format). All shots will

be available light against a white background. For output, I'm scanning and

printing digitally using Peizo inks at 16x24.

 

What i'm looking for advice with is a film/developer combo that will give me

enough speed for available light (iso 400 minimum) but will also scan well while

giving me good tonality and minimal grain.

 

I can always use the tried and true Tri-X D76 combo, but my sense is theres

gotta be something better out there and you folks will know what it is.

 

As an aside, I'm not adverse to using a c-41 B&W film like XP2, given how well

it scans, IF I could find a reasonably good lab that doesnt charge alot for

development, so lab suggestions are also welcome.

 

Thanking you all in advance.....

Dead, do you feel just a little bit like Sisyphus? :) Seriously, you are to be commended for

your willingness to help out. Luckily, with 54 square centimeters of negative to work with,

a roughly 8x enlargement to your final output size, you have some leeway on the grain.

 

C-41 B&W would be a nice choice; they are generally held to have finer grain at ISO 400

than conventional films, and a nice tonal "look" to boot. They do indeed scan well, and you

could theoretically have them developed at Walgreen's (just don't let them do the printing

unless you like your grays green) or at the Seat of Godless Capitalism. Me, I like film grain

and the smell of hypo so I don't much mess with C-41 B&W.

 

A lot of people knock them for portraits, but I really like TMY (T-Max 400) or Delta 400.

Both are unforgiving of overdevelopment, though, so a test roll would be in order. Nice

fine grain for their speed.

 

If I had my druthers, though--did I mention you got 54 square cm of negative to work

from?--I'd just go with Tri-X or HP-5 (again, different films but each nice in its own way).

Develop any of the films I've mentioned in Xtol/Mytol at full strength and you'll get

maximum grain solvency at the cost of some acutance; I've never been convinced that

dilution improves their tonality much. You'll get lovely creamy grain that won't detract

from the images. In a blown out white background grain won't be that much apparent.

 

For anything higher than ISO 400, I'd not mess with pushing these films if grain is worry

#1. You might, however, consider Delta 3200 rated at 1600 and developed in full-strength

Xtol/Mytol. You'd be amazed how much less the grain is than you'd expect at this speed;

depending on the wishes of your "client" it might be an effect they'd like.

 

Please give us follow up when the job is done. Hope this has been more helpful than

confusing.

Tri x and D76 is hard to better. Use it undiluted one shot.

 

T Max will get you increased grain.

 

For really fine grain, expose at 200 and reduce development 20%. This or HP5 is my high speed combination.

 

The old three leg stool still exists. Pick one only, fine grain, sharpness, or high speed. D76 is the best compromise. Xtol is ok if you like it.

 

Run some tests first since you are undecided.

I would use Tri-X and Diafine at 1200 if this is available Lighting... it gives it not much more grain than the regular 400 I.E. and is almost impossable to screw up... But then again this depends on the Subject. It scanns well but turn off ICE. What Camera are you using that is 6x9 and what lens is on it... Sounds like you have a nice Camera...... my only 6x9 is an Agfa Clack and a Sureshot everflash.....

 

I do use other MF cameras of the better type but do me a favor and shoot a roll or 2 with your setup before you go for the max.

 

Larry

Another vote for TMY (Tmax 400) here. It can be rated at EI800 if you develop in Microphen or similar. Otherwise just stick with the normal box-rating of 400 and use D-76.

 

You don't say if your available light will be daylight or tungsten filament lamps. If your main light source is tungsten, then you'll find the extended red sensitivity of Tmax useful, because conventional films like Tri-x need to be downrated by at least half-a-stop in tungsten lighting.

 

Whatever film you decide on, don't uprate the film speed too much for portraits, it'll make the skin tones harsh and difficult to scan or print, especially if your subjects will be non-white skinned. An EI rating over 800, with any film, and regardless of what silly number is printed on the box, will just give you underexposure.

I'd also consider Ilford Delta 400. A bit more expensive, but very nice tonal qualities.