paul_ozzello Posted October 23, 2004 Share Posted October 23, 2004 I'm having some printing problems using Fujiflex Crystal Archive (polyester base) with Kodak chemistry. All my prints have a slight yellow cast (3-5cc). It's not a filtration issue as the unexposed borders have the same cast. I'm using fresh chemistry, fresh paper, and a Jobo CPE processor. If I process an unexposed sheet without developer (bleach-fix only), the print is pure white. The same picture developed by a local lab using 'regular' crystal archive has pure white borders. I'm kind of stumped. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freehueco Posted October 23, 2004 Share Posted October 23, 2004 How long has the paper been sitting around? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rowland_mowrey Posted October 23, 2004 Share Posted October 23, 2004 Describe your process please. Ron Mowrey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim philopena Posted October 23, 2004 Share Posted October 23, 2004 Have you tried to extend the washing? I'm talking 5 to 10 minutes for the final wash... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul_ozzello Posted October 24, 2004 Author Share Posted October 24, 2004 The paper has been in the fridge (4.8 C) for 4 months, I mixed the chemicals the night before. <br><br>My processing:<Br><Br> (temperature 94F/34.4C)<Br> 45 (s) prewash <br> 1:00 developer<Br> 30 (s) stop bath<Br> 45 (s) wash<br> 1:15 bleach-fix<Br> 3 minute wash<br><br> I've tried extending both developer and bleach-fix times to 2:00, no change. Could my paper be slightly fogged? My darkroom is light tight, and I develop late at night. There used to be a Kodak guide with examples of common mistakes/problems, but I can't find it anymore, does anyone have some useful URLs with similar examples? Fuji claims the paper can be kept under 10C indefinately with no adverse effects, is this realistic? Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert_davis2 Posted October 24, 2004 Share Posted October 24, 2004 If it was the paper then wouldn't the unexposed paper have showed the problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esa_tuominen Posted October 24, 2004 Share Posted October 24, 2004 What kind of stop bath do you use? I cured a similar problem with Kodak Supra Endura by changing to pure acetic acid stop bath. In my case Ilfords indicator containing citric acid stop caused light brown staining. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rowland_mowrey Posted October 24, 2004 Share Posted October 24, 2004 Paul; Your process looks ok. Esa beat me to it with my first suggestion. Sometimes, not always, indicator stop baths can cause a light stain. The way to test it is to put a drop of developer on the yellow stain and see if it changes to a bluish color. If it does, then that is probably the problem. OTOH, you ask about fog. Yellow color indicates exposure to blue light of some sort, or ultra violet. Do you have fluorescent lights in your lab? The afterglow can do this to color paper. Overdevelopment usually leads to cyan fog in Kodak color papers. Exhausted or alkaline blix can cause a yellow stain. You would miss it if you just blixed paper. It takes carryover from color developer to cause the yellow iron stain due to improper pH. Exhausted blix also causes a yellow stain. It is retained silver halide, which may only show up if you have developer carryover into the blix. You can also test this by a drop of developer, and then the spot can turn black or a deeper shade of the yellow color. Hope this helps. Ron Mowrey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul_ozzello Posted October 24, 2004 Author Share Posted October 24, 2004 Thank you all for your help. I went out and bought some regular Crystal Archive to do a comparison. The yellow stain is not present with the new batch, so I suspect the original paper was fogged. Pretty strange for a new box of paper - I took sheets from either end, the center, and all are yellow. I hope Fuji will 'warranty' the original box. The Fujiflex is wrapped in a thin plastic coated paper, while the regular uses the more common thick black plastic. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david_kaufman1 Posted October 26, 2004 Share Posted October 26, 2004 Fujiflex that is past its best use date turns yellow. The package you bought was out of date. Fresh Fujiflex has a white base but is still a little less blue than regular RC colour paper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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