Advice for photography in Cuba

Hi, off to Cuba for 2 weeks next week. We have 10 nights in

Guardalavaca and 3 nights outside Old Havana on the coast. I think

our opportunities to travel wider than those two areas will be very

limited, so I'm interested in finding out about potential subject

matter - best beaches to look for, cool parts of Old Havana etc. I'm

interested in all types of travel photography, from beach sunsets to

those big old US 50's cars rusting away in the streets. Thanks, Neil

Havana (or, La Habana) is a street photographer's dream destination. I've usually stayed in the renovated state-run hotels in old Havana, on or near the Plaza de Armas area. These tend to be small, intimate little hotels, but every bit as comfortable and modern as the newer and/or renovated larger hotels along El Malecon, like the old historic Hotel Nacional or the large, ultra-plush Melia. This section of Old Havana is within easy walking distance of just about everything worth seeing in the historic section.

 

The beachfront hotels are very nice, but don't afford the same ambience as the hotels in the old Havana section. These tend to look like any other of the beach resorts around the world, and being from Florida I was not there for the beach scene.

 

The most interesting thing to do in old Havana is simply to walk around, keep your eyes and ears open and just soak in the atmosphere. It's just about the safest place I've ever experienced, so don't be afraid to wander around at will. The only people who will bother you on the streets are the ubiquitous and often shady Cuban cigar sellers; I don't smoke but I've been told by cigar afficionados that they don't always sell the real thing. These guys are a bit pushy, but a simple waive of the hand usually discourages them.

 

The large avenue directly in front of the Cuban Capitol building is a haven and gathering spot for old cars of all types, mostly functioning as private taxis these days. These can range from immaculate old 50's Caddies or Chevrolets to clapped out heaps held together with bondo and wire or older Communist bloc leftover Ladas. All the state sanctioned/run taxis are new European models you'd find on the streeets of any European capital.

 

I would only warn you to stay away from the "camellos" (spanish word for camels), the cheapest form of public transportation in Havana. These are nothing more than an old truck cab towing a passenger trailer, usually densely crowded with more than few pickpockets (or so I've been told). There's an intertesting little ferry that takes you across the harbor to the little town of Regla (this is the ferry that was recently hijacked by some desperados hoping to get to Miami, they later surrendered and were promptly executed). The short trip acoss the harbor affords lots of photo opportunities. Havana harbor is incredibly polluted, the oil slick on the water is so thick there's practically no wave action.

 

Feel free to enter any of the many old, historic buildings, take photos or just explore. The Spanish colonial architecture is simply breathtaking, and the state of disrepair and neglect creates a certain patina to the buildings/furnishings that you cannot find anywhere else. I've been invited into people's homes by just simply approaching them and striking up a conversation. Most Cubans are more than happy to have their photo taken, and they appreciate whatever money you can spare; one U.S. dollar goes a long way in Cuba in ther state run stores. It really helps to speak Spanish, but most will make the effort to communicate with you, and everyone seems to have a relative of some kind living in Hialeah, Florida. There's one character wandering about old Havana with about a thousand facial ring piercings who will only allow you to take his photo for a large sum of money; he's a greedy, nasty sort and I got him when he was not looking with a long lens.

 

There are lots of interesting tourist bars scattered around old Havana, most all of them will claim to be Hemingway's favorite drinking spot, and the waiters can often point to the exact spot where he passed out...way back when. La Bodeguita del Medio or La Floridita are good spots for traditional drinks. The Vegas-style shows put on at many of the large resort hotels are impressive, but I seem to prefer the smaller, seedier spots where the music is more authentic and the atmoshphere so thick you'll think you've gone back in time to the fifties.

 

The large plaza in front of the Capitol building is a very interesting place. It's usually full of all kinds of people, mostly arguing about sports; the only thing you cannot argue about in Cuba in public is politics, every other subject is OK. El Hotel Inglaterra, directly across the street from the Capitol plaza is a true architectural gem and a good place to eat.

 

Stay away from most of the street restaurants that cater to locals, the food is usually of very poor quality. The best restaurants are in the State run hotels, which only cater to those with dollars, or other foreign currencies (Cubans are not encouraged to enter, and most simply cannot afford it). The buffet at the Melia Cohiba is something to behold for sheer excess and variety. The "paladares" (these are state licensed private homes that will take in a limited number of diners) are popular, but hard to evaluate till it's too late.

 

El Colon cemetary, just outside of Havana, is incredible, not only for its history and lavish pre-Revolution mausoleums and tomb statuary, but if you hang around after dark you might see a ghost or two.

 

I could go on and on, but I'll stop here. Like the man said, It's a great place to visit but I would not want to live there. Have fun.

I went 5 years ago, photographically it was a nightmare...

 

Take spare batteries, I was young and foolish and didn't, my Canon AE-1 battery went down on arrival (I'd used it the day before) it wasn't easy finding one in Cuba. I didn't manage it til I had less than 24 hours left, and its a hunk of useless metal that won't even let you wind the film on without power!

 

The opportunities for photos are endless -> take lots of film, I really wish I'd got shots of the area in the north-west of the city, and some of the Russian highrise blocks, like the main hospital, I'll see if I can dig out my guidebook for more details...

 

You won't fail to enjoy your trip!

I was in Havana earlier this year, for 9 days. I concur with Mr. Ortega about most

things. For my own photography, however, I preferred walking around Havana Centro

to Havana Vieja (old Havana). Havana Centro is more rundown; Havana Vieja, except

the southern part, has been beautifully restored, but to my mind that gives it a sense

of sterility. I think your main problem is that your time is short. What I would watch

out for are jiniteros, scammers mostly, who will bother you constantly unless you

harden yourself to ignore them. Anyone saying "speak English" or offering cigars, or

mentioning Buena Vista social club is likely a jinitero. Back to Mr. Ortega's

suggestions -- I would strongly second his suggestion to spend a few hours in Regla.

I found it to be much more low-key than Havana Centro or Vieja.

 

You can see some of my photos at http://www.pbase.com/zuiko40/cuba

I've never been to Cuba but can only relate a horrific story told to me by a client who did go there. He was beaten and nearly stabbed to death, all his equipment, wallet, cash, etc. stolen and left for dead. They say something like that is a rarity but I'd be careful.

Violent crime, especially against tourists, is rare. But reports I have read, largely on

the Lonely Planet Thorntree ( http://thorntree.lonelyplanet.com/index.cfm ) suggest

that snatch and grab and other thefts are increasing. I would take the usual

precautions when travelling in poor country, but i would not be paranoid.

Cuba: the safest I've ever felt while travelling. Don't assume you

will be robbed, or you will miss the shots. Also, Old Havana is

terribly touristy - fine if you like that, but if not and you do shoot

there, get up real early in the morning, better to shoot the 50's

cars without tourists in the frame. Or walk Central Havana for

hours, you won't be disappointed.

You lucky thing. I was there last November and have a wonderfull couple of weeks. I only spent 3days in Havana before moving on (that's probably enough formost people).

 

Most places worth a visit have already been mentioned. On the tourist trail you'll get some nice pictures of musicians in the Bodegita del Medio or the Havana Club bar. You'll find even better if you stray from the tourist trail and dead into the back streets, follow your senses and you'll find something. Around the Capitol you'll find some great streets to wander and head over there to start an evening off too. Head over to the art markets and the backstreets there too. You'll find very talented artists selling really cheap canvases in their front rooms. Most of the artists will be happy to offer you a coffee and talk with you a while as you wander through.

 

One solid piece of advice is forget the warnings about film restrictions - take as much as you want - and make sure you take everything you need. You'll not easily lay your hands on photographic materials or batteries there.

 

When it comes to crime, just be smart. I wandered across Havana late in the evening, passing through the poorest of areas, with plenty of canon digital gear adorning my shoulders without any hassle or issues... I can be an imposing figure though.

 

I have heard from fellow travellers of theft and the odd bit of violence. Generally I always give the same advice in any part of the world. A brand new camera bag and everything on show attracts attention. Use a bag that's less obvious to contain kit and don't have valuables on display if you don't need too.

 

Most of all, enjoy the sun, the rum and the culture. Write us a quick account when you get back and post a picture or two.

 

You can see some of my cuban shots on my site www.urban-landscapes.co.uk

 

All the best

 

Gavin