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Zorki 3 and Petri filters


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Thanks boys for your responses, my doubt, now, is if the Petri W4 warm

filter is or not from good cuality. You know the difficulty to find

any 40.5 mm filter. Imagine lens-hoods! And then the shipping to Spain

is about $41.15 USD.

Last week I got two 40 mm (very used) Kenko UV filters for my two

Canon IIB lenses : Serenar 50 and 135 mm. Too much money.

 

kinds regards.

 

luis

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<p>Why do you want a UV filter? Go to <a href="http://medfmt.8k.com/bronfiltersp.html">this page</a> and wait for a few seconds while it loads. Then search within it for the string "UV inhibitors". This comes at the start of a most interesting message by Jim Brick.</p><p>If you really must have a 40.5mm filter, I can reassure you that they're a lot easier to find than 40mm filters (whose rarity is exaggerated).</p><p>If you're worried about possible image degradation caused by your Petri filter, simply test it and find out.</p>
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I've seen that article before and I personally think Jim's last name is very fitting....

<br><br>

I love this quote:<br><i>

"I don't like protective filters because they accumulate scratches, thumbprints, and dirt which add flare and reduce contrast in your photos. Look in the used filter bargain box at most camera dealers or camera shows to see lots of evidence of scratched and dirty "protective filters" in recent use."

<br><br></i>

Eh...the point for me to use a filter is that I much rather have those scratches appear on the filter - and not on the lens glass...those 'protective filters' seems to have done what they were supposed to do. ;-)

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I can post an image of a smashed UV filter that was on the front

of my Tamron Zoom. I was shooting a bunch of flowwers in a

field, and had not set the legs of the tripod securely. When I bent

down to retrieve something the camera and tripod fell forward

into the ground. It was a 80-210 zoom, so it went lens first into

the dirt. Smashed the filter, but everything else was okay. It did

its job and sacrificed itself tosave the lens!

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Getting and maintaining lens quality is a tricky business. I don't think most people ever really critically examine their lenses, particularly those who sell them on eBay along with the the claims the lenses are "mint". My expectations of a lens made after about 1970 is that it has some chance of being near perfect. All bets are off, however, for the older stuff in which the elements were cemented together with natural organic compounds. I think it is pretty rare to find something like an old Tessar that doesn't have some evidence of deterioration including separation, cloudiness and cleaning marks, and often those are only apparent when illuminated with a strong light from behind. I devote quite a bit of time and effort to overcoming those effects along with those of uncoated optics, so my tendency is to avoid adding any further image degradation in the form of filters which are used more for protection than for image enhancement.
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Perhaps one thing should not be overlooked -- a good stiff lens

hood is as protective as anything, and will also reduce flare. I

have several lens hoods that attach to Series VII filter rings, that I

can then use with several lenses/cameras. I have rarely used

any filters or hoods for my rangefinders, but certainbly have for

my SLRs and medium format cameras. Unfortunately, the metal

hoods are not commonly seen in stores -- just those crappy

rubber ones. I noticed a definite improvement in overall quality of

exposures using a good hood with a 50mm lens.

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This morning picked up a Tri-X and went to take some shots with the Zorki and a 135 mm Canon Serenar, when I arrived home I changed the lens en fited the Jupiter 8 NO FILTER to take the last shot. No one around so I went to the loo and this is what came out :-)

 

f:4 1/50

Developed in D-76 (1:1) 22?C 8 minutes and a half.<div>009NfH-19485084.jpg.a23cd4fb42c74e1361810c4970fce407.jpg</div>

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