Sinar-Tachihara, part 2

Sinar-Tachihara, part 2:

 

One week ago I wrote some questions. Thank you all for the good

answers. Unfortunately I can�t find all of them any longer. For

example the answer from my Norwegan neighbour how to make a Sinar

adapterplate for Linhof boards?

 

During this week I haven�t done so much LF-work, it�s just a hobby.

Though I�ve managed to fold my Tachihara 4x5 following the Ebony

instructions and the other given advises. OK, I have also unfolded

it again and exposed some Polaroid films. It�s nice to change and

handle the lenses fitted in Wista boards instead of the bulkier

Sinar boards. Before I buy (or make) a Sinar adapterplate for

Linhof boards the following must be clear. Are Horseman and Sinar

boards identical? Do Horseman have the same thickness and the light

trapping laps round the inner edges? Are Wista off-center boards

identical to Linhof boards? Does Linhof have the the light trap laps

in a centered inner circle? I�m not willing to damaged my Sinar or

have light leakage.

 

I have to admit that I miss the superb quality of the Sinar when

testing the Tachihara. I miss the stability and the engraved scales

for determining depth of focus, plane of sharpness etc. I also miss

the spirit levels and the easy shift possibilities. I do not miss

the weight and bulkiness. Another problem is the beauty of the

camera (one reason why I bought it!). People think I�m a relict from

a hundred years ago especially when using the cloth. The black Sinar

with the (really bulky) binocular viewfinder was more scientific in

it�s character. Do I have to use the included brown cloth when

working with the Tachi or can I find other accessories?

 

One reason why the Sinar is easy to handle is because it�s

lubricated in all moving parts.

Can I lubricate the Tachi without problems? If so, what kind of

lubricant?

 

I�m now also interested of finding a more lightweight tripod. The

lightest I have now is a Manfrotto 055 Nature. Are the carbon

tripods good? Can I find a carbon Manfrotto which is compatible with

the not circle round center column of the modern 055? So I can use

the same heads and monoballs in an easy way. Or are the Gitzo

better? Or is the newest �digital� models enough? Or is the best a

wooden one?

 

I use my Nikon D100 with the 24-120 VR for light metering today when

using the LF. Opinions and what exposure compensations to think of

compared to the optimal digital histogram? I use negative films

(TMAX and Portra) and normally I follow the old rule �expose for the

shadows and develop for the highlights�.

I really like this mixture of modern snapshots and old craftsmanship.

 

Have a nice week!

 

/ Arne Olsson, Sweden

You can find your posts by logging in.

 

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=007gEs

 

Steve

<p>Unfortunately some posts were lost due to a severe technical problem at photo.net (<a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=007gj8">http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=007gj8</a>).</p>

 

<p>The Wista boards were designed by Wista as copies of the Linhof Technika board. It has been awhile since I have seen a Wista board, so I don't remember whether every single feature is duplicated. The most common difference between genuine Linhof Technika boards and copies is whether the lens hole is on or off center. The Linhof brand Technika boards have a projecting circular boss on the rear that is close to centered on the board. Re your lensboard questions: I suggest asking the retailer or buying from a retailer that allows returns.</p>

 

<p>The differences you described between the Sinar and the Tachihara are the expected differences between a studio and a field camera. One has to give up on some features to get the reduced weight of a field camera. There are field cameras that are more rigid than a Tachihara and which have levels. You can also add levels to your Tachihara. You can replace a dark cloth that came with the camera with another that you prefer.</p>

 

<p>There are suitable tripods for a Tachiara that are made of metal, anod of wood and of carbon fiber. Mostly it is a tradeoff between cost, weight and quality.</p>

 

<p>Re using your Nikon D100 as an exposure meter -- I suggest taking a few trial exposures, and if the shadows are too thin, adjusting your ISO.</p>

To lubricate parts of the camera use any fine oil. I use the oil that is used to lubricate the rotary valves on my French Horn.

Hi Arne,

<p>

It was more or less like deja vu when I read your post. I also had similar thoughts in regard

to geared versus friction movement when I considered going from a Sinar X (in studio) to a

field camera. And, of course, the scales on the Sinar, etc.

<p>

I'm now using a F2 front standard on the X in order to "get use" to the idea of not having

geared movements since I'm considering buying a 8x10 Dorff. What I'm finding is that it is

much easier (ie, quicker) to adjust than I first thought.

<p>

I have used Wista boards on my Sinar-Linhof adapter board in the past and have had no

problems with the fit. From what I can remember... there wasn't the circular boss on the

back of the board as Michael mentioned. It was simply flat.

<p>

In regards to the adapter board that take Linhof/Wista board mounted lenses onto your

Sinar... there are adapter boards already out in the marketplace albeit quite expensive. In

fact, Sinar use to make one but it was really, really expensive. I've seen converted Sinar

boards used and what they did was to use a slightly larger hole size than a Copal 3 shutter

but smaller than the Technika/Wista board sizes. The locking mechanism consisted of a

couple of sliding clamps from Calumet. Looked quite effective. I have one of the original

Sinar adapter boards and will attest to the "convenience" of using Technika board mounted

lenses... very, very handy!

<p>

The Horeseman boards are the same size and thickness of the Sinar boards. I've used one

on my X without any difficulties. Since I'm at home at the moment I don't recall whether

the Horseman boards have the light traps on the perimeter or not. For some reason, I

don't think they do though.

<p>

I use to have a M/T and that's why I have these Technika/Wista boards and the Sinar

Adapter board. I couldn't get use to the idea of not having geared movements. That's why I

eventually sold off the M/T. In retrospect, I wish I would have given it a little bit more

effort since the M/T was a fine camera. However, that being said, I've NEVER seen a Dorff

with geared movements. :>) So, if I'm going to go that route...I'll have to get use to the

notion of using friction fit movements. In terms of size, weight, and convenience, you are

going to have to make sacrifices, as Michael said. I couldn't imagine dragging the X or a P2

out into the field (without a Sherpa!). It would be much easier to use a good, high quality

field camera in the studio though.

<p>

As Michael said, use the D100 and make some measurements to see how it compares to

the end result of a film shoot. It should be fairly easy to make the translation.

<p>

Good luck...

<p>

Cheers