Zoom Lenses for FM3a

I want to get a FM3A for trekking / camping / climbing around

Everest - 21,000 ft and -20C Ideally I would like a Zoom that went

24-120 ish because I need 24 for stunning landscapes but also longer

end for mountain close ups. It also needs to be compact, light and

ruggered - I have enough to carry as it is! Budget for lens about

$500 max. I am new to this and would really appreciate ideas,

suggestions, comments. Nikon or third party lenses.

Thanks

Ian

Big zooms tens to be modern. Modern lenses tend to be plastic. Plastic lenses tend to break if they are not treated very well.

 

If your one lens breaks, you've got a long walk to get another.

 

Men who are hard & buy FM cameras for travel often buy a few small prime lenses. (like 28, 50, 100)

 

Really hard men prefer FM2 over FM3.

You can use the Nikkor 24-120 AF-D (but not its newer AF-S VR G cousin) on your FM3A in manual focus mode.

 

I'd recommend instead the compact and tried-and-true manual focus 24/2.8 and the 75-150/3.5E zoom, well within your budget. If you can haul a few more grams, and if you feel that there's too big a gap in your available focal lengths, add either a 35mm or 50mm lens.

 

Since you haven't yet purchased the camera and lens combo (and you'd have about $1,000 total to spend, right?) I think you should consider the whole package in terms of versatility, mass and bulk. You could get an N80 with the new 24-120 VR zoom for that sort of cash, and not have to change lenses while dodging yaks.

 

The altitude won't affect your gear, except for the likelihood that you will want a UV filter on your lens(es). Temperatures of -20C do give batteries fits. I haven't been to Nepal or anywhere near it. I do think I'd take my FM3A and leave the N90s behind if I were trekking there... but then I have both of them here to pick from so it's not a budgeting decision. But there aren't many good, light, rugged zooms under $500 for the FM3A.

 

Good luck. I'd say "have fun" but clearly you don't need any help along THOSE lines.

Hello!

I think the most important point for you is the "steepness" of the focussing helicoid. Most modern wide angle zooms have a very small angle between closest focus and infinity (e.g. the Nikon 28-105). This makes autofocus faster, but manual focussing becomes a real pain in the you-know-what, especially when you need to focus on the matte screen and can't use (or don't have) a split image.

 

Regards Georg

Most of the cheaper zooms also do not have a fixed aperture. On a manual focus camera, you have to remember to compensate for the aperture change...a recipe for disaster IMO.

 

You can't go wrong with a series E 75-150/3.5 or a late model AI 80-200/4.5 or if you can swallow bigger 62mm filters, the 80-200/4. (it would be ideal to try and have your lenses all use the same filter size for climbing) Be aware that smallish MF bodies don't balance so well with zooms. I usually want my F3HP to have the motor installed when I use my 80-200/4.5 zoom.

I would probably go with a couple small primes, maybe a 24mm and an 85mm. I am undecided on the merits/tradeoffs of the lighter AF lenses vs. the more rugged MF versions for your trip.

 

I would also avoid a motorized body (like the N80) due to battery performance and static electricity issues; in very cold / dry environments static can 'mark' your film and the film gets brittle to boot.

I think this web page is worth reading:

<a href="http://www.gdargaud.net/Photo/ClimbingPhotoTips.html">here</a><p>

Hope this helps

I have been to some cold places but not as extreme as Everest. IMO you are much better off consulting people with high altitude experience. Because of the wind and the protective clothing, especially gloves, you will be wearing, changing lenses may be difficult. If it is snowing, you can get snow all over your mirror box when your lens is off. A modern short zoom may be the right way to go. I am not sure the 24-120 is all that durable though.

 

In this kind of trip, having a backup camera and lens(es) is important. But weight and space is a primium. Hopefully some of your fellow travelers will have compatible equipment for sharing.

For Everest, you probably want light equipment.

 

I would think 3 lenses, max (preferably common filter thread).

 

If it were me, I would probably take a 24, 35 f/1.4 AIS and 75-150 f/3.5 AIS Series E Zoom.

 

Bring lens hoods attached all the time with snap caps.

 

The 24 f/2 or f/2.8 can be used with a HN-1 hood (with 72 mm snap cap), the 35 uses a HN-3 Hood (with 72 mm snap cap), and the 75-150 Zoom works well with a HS-7 hood (not the hood originally specified, this one is much better) and a 77 mm snap cap.

 

You'll want at least a L37c filter on everything, probably something stronger like a B&W MRC KR3 (sort of like an 81C).

I shot in terribly cold weather last winter, sub artic. I took three bodies, first the F100 would stop working around -20c, then the F3 would stop around -45c, but my F90X always worked, and the coldest it went was -62c. Lubes in your gear should be removed or reduced, the lithium grease hardens as it gets colder. Take two battery packs containing lithium batteries, keep one pack close to your body for warmth and swap packs when you notice a performance decrease. Try to climatize your gear as little as possible, do not bring it in your tent or selter for the night, leave the whole kit outside. When climatizing to warmer temps, remove the lens and if possible, open the back. Do not take it back outside until all the moisture has evaporated, you will freeze it solid. Bring lots of velvia and provia, but most importantly, have others take photos of you!

I've been to Nepal, in 2001, but skipped Everest base camp in favor of trekking in the Annapurna region. The Annapurna Range, in terms of height, is within winking distance of Everest. Trekking solo I got up to 15,000 feet or higher over several days. It was great up there. My favorite place in the world so far.<p>

 

My camera was an FE, and my lenses were the Nikkor 50/1.8E (which I still have) and a Tamron 28-200 variable aperture zoom. If it hadn't been for my 50mm, I'd have been sunk. The zoom was much too slow and not really suited to manual focus (because of the lens's length, I'd replaced the camera's split rangfinder screen with a matte screen).<p>

 

Lens speed is of prime importance when shooting while situated between gigantic, light-blocking mountains, and inside buildings and monasteries that often don't have electric light. As is having a mechanical camera that you know can be repaired, if worse comes to worse, in the nearest big town.<p>

 

My advice, for what it's worth, is this. Take your FM3A (as well as, if possible, some sort of backup, such as another FM/FE body, or a point & shoot such as the Stylus Epic). The FM3A is the perfect camera for this situation (simple, reliable, lightweight, with electronic accuracy and full mechanical backup). Take two or three prime lenses (35 and 85; or 24, 50, 105). Make sure at least one of them - probably the 35 or 50 - is fast (1.8, or, better yet, 1.4). You'll probably find that you leave your fast lens on the camera 90% of the time. Take a few extra sets of button cells (more than you'll need, just in case). Take lots of film. Stir. Enjoy.

In view of Doug Thacker's comments on the need for speed, and kind of seeing his point, you might want to think in terms of two fast primes like the 35 mm f/1.4 and either the manual focus AI'ed 85 mm f/1.8 (a lot lighter than the f/1.4), the larger 85 mm f/1.4 AIS, the 105 mm f/1.8 AIS or the 105 mm f/2.5.

 

If space and energy to switch lenses exists, a 20 or 24 would probably be the logical third addition.

Maybe i sounded too much like a pro to warrant a reaction. although most the other recomendations and advice didn't seem to come from artic experienced shooters. the F3 was my first Nikon, i bought another one just for that particuliar shoot, thinking it was old faithful. Ian, have your F3 serviced for artic shooting. they put lighter grease or remove the grease. if you don't, your shutter might have a tough time operating, and hence over expose

First off thanks to everyone - it has been really helpful - off down to see the bank manager now! Also many thanks to Eric with the advice about the camera body, I had not thought about that. I wonder if they will grease or degrease my joints in preparation.

Thanks

Ian

Glad we could be of service, Ian. If you have an F3 already, do take it. Consider the FM2n for backup. That will be much cheaper than an FM3A, leaving you more money for lenses. Also, if you haven't already, check on the weather conditions expected at Everest base camp during the time you plan on being there - it isn't always so cold. I know you'll love Kathmandu, and all of Nepal - a wonderful country and people. Namaste.

Ian, you're welcome, please find us when you return and post some pics for us! Don't forget those lithium energizers! Here's a pic of your's truly at -45ish Celsius. The white is from my breath, and anyone with exposed eye lashes looked like aliens, hard to talk with some one seriously...

 

 

 

Doug, don't you wish you were going too? E<div></div>

Eric do you take any precautions with the film at these temperatures? I read in a textbook that the film could snap or have static electricity in low temperatures.

 

Thanks!

I have used my F80 and Nikon 70-300mm.ED lens in brutally cold conditions here in Toronto 30-35 below with the wind chill,and no problems at all just picked up a KR3 B+W filter to try this winter!!!

K.L. sorry, i didn't notice your question until now...are you still there?