Sinar - Tachihara

Large Format Questions:

 

I�m a swedish photographer. I have for 3½ decade used Nikon and

Hasselblad cameras.

Five years ago I bought a Sinar F2 to try the LF. I�ve also acquired

4 Rodenstock N-lenses, non APO, with Copal shutters (65/4.5, 90/6.8,

150/5.6 and 210/5.6) and mounted them on Sinar lensboards (140x140

mm). It was all very good except for weight and bulkiness so I

haven�t exposed many frames.

 

Now (mars 2004) I bought a used Tachihara 4x5 with a Commercial

Congo 150/4.5 lens on a centered �type of Linhofboard�. How is this

lens compared to my Rodenstock 150?

I�ve also purchased 4 Wistabords of the off-centered standard

Linhoftype, because I think the Sinar adapterplate requires this.

Though I haven�t ordered any adapterplate yet. The price was a chock

so perhaps I�ve better let a local technician make one of a standard

Sinarboard? I will not change the Sinarsystem to the worse and hope

that moving the lens ~2 mm forvard (=the thickness of the

Wistaboard) will not course any new problems when focusing or

determining the plane of sharpness? Should the technician even (if

possible) countersink the adapterplate?

 

Now back to the Tachihara. My first problem is that I can�t fold the

camera. (Please don�t joke about dumb Swedes here.) I could unfold

it!!! Can anyone give me an instruction for this? Is it even

possible to find a complete manual on the net? The second problem is

that the 65 mm lens have practically no movements left course the

thickness of the camera and the off-centered board. Is it possible

to find and use a recessed board to this camera with non

interchangeable bellows? Is it better to buy another lightweight

field camera � which one?

Or is it better to buy another wideangle lens (this one was the most

expensive part of the whole system) with other flangeback � which

one?

 

Best Regards / Arne Olsson

There is absolutely no problem with moving the lens 2mm away, other than the fact that you'll need the standards to be 2mm closer, which could be a minor issue with the 65mm lens focused at infinity with movements.

 

I don't know anout the other questions.

Arne,

 

Many view cameras require that all control knobs be loose when you fold them up, to allow for internal shifting. Be sure to push the front standard back before folding.

 

I use a Linhof-to-Sinar converter board that I bought from Bromwell marketing (www.bromwellmarketing.com) for $169. Yes, that's a lot of money, but I doubt you will find it for less. It is very convenient not to have to change lensboards, and the reduced handling of the glass will make it last longer.

 

I have a Super Angulon XL 65mm lens and find that it just barely has enough coverage for 4x5. I get vignetting fairly regularly, without the intention or expectation. And when focussed on infinity,a slight rear tilt or swing causes the rear of the lens to strike against the ground glass. On top of the compressed bellows problems. This is just a very limited lens (though I did use it just last weekend!). I only shoot it straight now. I plan to supplement it with a Super Symmar XL 80mm, which I should have bought in the first place.

 

Regards,

 

CXC

To fold the Tachihara, first make sure the 4 knobs holding the front standard are loose. Pull the front containing the lensboard up and out of its slot. Then tilt it back and place it face down on the bottom of the camera. Then fold the back down as the bellows fold.

<p>The Congo lenses aim at the economy end of the market. Most of the the Congo lenses are tessar designs, one of the most widely produced designs in the history of lenses. This design uses 4 glass elements in 3 groups -- 2 elements are cemented together. A well-made tessar-type lens is capable of excellent image quality over a moderate field. Since their coverage is normal, if you wish to use substantial movements that displace the image from the center of the film, tessars are best in focal lengths longer than the format diagonal. If your style of photography doesn't use much of movements such as front rise, the Congo may be fine for you. Congo has a website at <a href="http://www.cosmonet.org/congo/index_e.html">http://www.cosmonet.org/congo/index_e.html</a>.</p>

 

<p>Rodenstock is a top LF lens manufacturer. Your description of your Rodenstock lenses leaves me guessing a bit -- I suppose that your 150 mm Rodenstock lens is a Sironar-N. The Sironar-N is a plasmat type design, of 6 elements in 4 groups. Compared to the tessar design, plasmats have greater coverage. Your 150 mm Rodenstock should permit larger movements than the 150 mm Congo. Another recent post mentioned the various versions of the Rodenstock Sironars: <a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=007Tkg">http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=007Tkg</a>.</p>

 

<p>A recessed lensboard will probably help some in using your 65 mm lens on your Tachihara. No camera with a regular bellows for lenses up to circa 300 mm will do a great job with a 65 mm lens, but on the other hand the lens doesn't have great amounts of coverage in excess of 4x5. As to whether you should buy another camera, it depends on your needs and whether you find the Tachihara limiting. All cameras are compromises, so there is no simple answer. If your main interest was architecture, then I would recommend a camera with interchangable bellows. Buying a different 65 mm lens won't help with the ease of use of a 65 mm lens on the Tachihara.</p>

 

<p>All of these lenses are discussed in the archives of this forum -- I suggest browing or using the advanced search page of google, limiting your search to the domain www.photo.net.</p>