I want a good LF backpack!

I've been looking a backpack I could live with for a long time.

First just for regular life hiking trips, and second for carrying the

camera out into the field. I haven't been happy with what I've seen

for the camera. The closest I've come was a Jansport I would have

had to heavily modify to get close.

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Then I got an idea recently. If you can't find one, build it

yourself. OK, what should the specs be? That wasn't too tough, but

as with all things, it gets to be a long list when you get into the

details. And since I have no needle and thread skills, I need a

manufacturer. Which got me to LL Bean. A good quality company that

will be targeting roughly the same market of people that do LF

photography. So I wrote them a letter:

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Custom internal or external frame backpacks.

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Dear LL Bean,

I've just recently picked up a new hobby, large format photography.

Easy to do in studio, hard to do in the field with a large monorail

camera.

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I've looked around, and never found a backpack for the camera that

I'm confortable with. For various reasons they just will not be

suitable for anything more than a half mile hike from the car. Lots

of companies make something that might work, but usually they are

either camera bag companies that just put big straps on the bag, or

backpack companies that are thinking about 35mm cameras.

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So I thought about you. L.L. Bean has always at least been intersted

in looking at new ideas. What I'm thinking of is a backpack that

closely replicates the normal carrying case the camera comes in, but

with the other things that a good frame backpack would need.

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What I have in mind is a top opening central section 19 - 22 inches

wide, 16 inches tall, and 11 inches deep. The key thing here is that

the central third of this compartment must be a rigid box, to protect

the camera. And the entire panel along the wearer's back should be

rigid as well, for the same reason.

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Around the top, sides and bottom of this compartment should be the

usual compartments, webbing and loops a typical backpacker would need

for other supplies. At least two loops or a pocket is needed for the

camera tripod. And it would be nice if the backpack were stable

enough to stand up on its own with little propping.

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OK, that was a long description. Now my question: can you provide

such a backpack? I know I'd be interested in buying one, and I

suspec there are others who would too. Maybe dozens, maybe hundreds,

I don't know, but it is a topic that comes up on the Large Format

forum on Photo.net often.

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Thanks for reading this far.

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Bill Taylor

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I've gotten two letter back so far. Basically, "good idea, we don't

make one, we'll think about it and get back to you". OK, about what

I expected and fairly encouraging. At least I'll get one more

saying "no we aren't interested". Hopefully, it WON'T say that, but

I can live in fools paradise, for a few days anyway.

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Bill Taylor

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ps. Any other features a good pack should have? Realistic ones I

mean. The one I described above is really only about 3800 - 4000 ci,

so it isn't huge (yet), just oddly sized.

Try a good old used, or new Alice pack. You can pick up a nice used one with aluminum back for about $50 at cheaperthandirt.com .If they were good enough for war time use, they should carry your camera, tripod, and all the gear you want for a full days hike.

Its pricey but I got a Tamrac expedition 7. If I ever were to get another, I would go for the Expedition 8 to carry more holders and stuff.

Jeff

As a novice large format shooter I wanted the freedom of taking the camera whereever I hiked - so I build my system to be compact, lightweight and fully functional. Camera is a Toho FC-45X for reference.

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For a bag - I use one of the larger camelbacks - it allows me to carry my camera, lenses, quick/readyloads plus all the bits and bobs that a large format shooter needs. It's a little disorganized internally at the moment - but I imagine I could get something to sort that out without too much hassle - some kind of padded pull out tray for lenses - I think <a href=http://www.gnassgear.com>Gnass gear</a> sells some for both film holders and lenses.

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The major benefit of using a camelback - 100oz of ice cold insulated water.

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The CF Tripod straps to the side and wetgear goes nicely in the webbing at the back. Small hikers first aid kit inside or in the other side pocket.

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Add an internal drybag and you can take large format to places you normally wouldn't think possible or sensible - such as up the Zion narrows.

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If LL Bean are going to design one an internal drybag would be a fantastic optional extra.

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<a href=http://www.camelback.com/rec/cb_prod.cfm?catid=6&product_id=217>My Pack</a>

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This plan may not work nearly as well for cameras that can't detach the standards from the rails - but for the toho it's a very compact way of travelling that gives me freedom to take large format where ever I chose to ramble.

An interesting and daunting problem. Everyone wants something different.

 

I would be wary of the "rigid internal box" idea. I'm not sure that it would protect the camera equipment, and it could really hurt you. Much of the damage of a fall comes from stuff bouncing around and crashing into one another. Lenses are particularly liable to damage each other. A rigid box doesn't do anything to stop this bouncing around. Also, a rigid panel up against your back is not wise if you are worried about either safety or comfort.

 

I propose an alternative for you. Consider a backpack that can move with you for comfort and stability (especially if you are climbing over rocks, you don't want to be also fighting your pack). To keep the contents safe, you want the backpack padded, and you want to be able to snug down the pack onto the contents to get rid of unused airspace, to keep the contents from moving, and to keep the contents as close to your back as you can to help keep the center of gravity as close to the spine as you can - this really helps when you are hiking over rocks or rough terrain, or climbing rocks.

 

Finally, a top loader requires you to unpack everything on top of your equipment so that you can extract and use your camera. A front or rear loader might be more practical. Probably a personal taste kind of thing.

 

That, at least, is what I was looking for. I found most of it in an Osprey Eclipse 42:

 

http://www.ospreypacks.com/eclipse42.html

 

Total weight of backpack and camera equipment (Toho FC-45X, four lenses, 10 film holders, Pentax spotmeter, darkcloth, filters, Gitzo, Arca-Swiss B1, etc.) is about 11.2 Kg (30 lbs). With 3 liters of water it's right at 13.5 Kg (36.2 lbs). I've used this combo for serveral years now, including many longish dayhikes (up to 15 km (9.3 miles)) and lots of climbs up and down canyon walls.

 

I've hiked up the trail from Yosemite valley to the top of Nevada falls (13km (8.1 miles) round trip, about 800 meters elevation (2600f) IIRC), with this kit, and my only regret was not taking more filmholders. That whole day, I didn't once think about the pack itself. And that's the way I wanted it.

 

So... if I were going to start from scratch and build a LF backpack, I would seriously look at the Osprey Eclipse 42 for ideas because their design has elements that apply directly to LF, IMHO. They might even work with you on it, who knows?

Bill,

I've been using the Tamrac 787 for about 2 years now, and I absolutely love it. It holds everything needed for a large format adventure and then some. This is the only photo backpack that I've ever used, so I can't comment on any of the others. Just my two cents worth.

The new photo backpacks of koenig in such a way present themselves a durable, waterproof covering, combined with a variable interior employment. The removable stretcher system is installed on the cover side, so that with the placing of the backpack only the waterproof outer hull affects the soil - the stretcher system remains drying and cleanly. The outside fastening spots for stand, camouflage tent, external bags, carrying handle and shoulder belt serve at the same time as placing feet and edge protection. The interior with the masses 460 x 300 x of 170 millimeters is largely enough for camera equipment with objectives up to 4.0/600 mm and can be individually partitioned: On the one hand with the standard interior organization for small picture equipment, which offers, both with set objective and many objectives for example two to housings and accessories place. Price: 380, - euro. And on the other hand with a customized interior organization, to which by post office or over InterNet a full-scale raw sketch and indication guidance are available. So individually the optimal allocation for equipment with telephotos, central format or large size can be sketched. Price: 440, - euro.

 

I translated a german written report about the koenig backpack.You can find exact infos here (only in german) http://www.members.aol.com/ekoenig/. IMHO the best backpack i 've ever seen.

There have been a bunch of threads here dealing with backpacks, take a look in the archives if you haven't already done so. Many people adapt a hiking backpack to photography use, the Kelty Redwing being one of the more popular. Unless you're saying that there's no back pack of any kind, hiking or camera, on the market today that suits you it would seem simpler to adapt a good hiking backpack to photography use if you don't like any of the dedicated photography backpacks rather than trying to induce someone to manufacture an entirely new pack.

As Brian says, this subject has been discussed many times here. There are plenty of excellent photo-specifc backpacks on the market, many suitable for LF. I personally use a Lowe Super Trekker which is superbly made, very comfortable (and I've carried a lot of rucksacks over the years as a joint service mountain expedition leader) and allows one to be very organised in the field.

A friend of mine has made custom padded cases for orchestra equipment, in

particular a cello. I would think that there is someone you could contact that

can make custom luggage for you. You might pay more but you'll get what you

want.

 

Now I looked into manufacturing custom cases and realized that there is

much more to it then one would think. There's alot of individual operations that

go into making such an item and the job is labor intensive. I figured in the end

that no one would pay for the time involved, so the best one could do is to

adapt something on the market and live with it. If I were to put a number on a

custom pack I would say you would be in the $900 to $1500 range

depending. What you might do is have someone alter a pack for you and/or

make some custom inserts out of closed cell foam and parachute cloth.

One of my goals with a good pack is to avoid having to break down the camera more than absolutely necessary. I'm using a Calumet/Cambo monorail. I don't want to take the standards off the rails in the field. It don't want to take the bellows off the standards. Ideally, I could find a location, drop the pack, plunk down the tripod, and mount the camera without any sub-assembly details.

 

I specified what amounts to a top loading design mostly because that is the way the camera case works now. The three compartments hold film, lenss, meters, etc., then the camera proper hangs down into the center setion of the case. This could certainly be adapted into a back loading design, but I didn't want to try too many changes from "normal" for Version 1 of the specs. In fact, when I was working with the Jansport Raineer, that is extactly what I was doing.

 

The reason for the rigid box I mentioned is simply that that is the section that will actually be supporting the rail, standards and bellows. It will be carrying a lot of weight, and foam filled cloth partitions will not do the job. the reason for the rigid back is the same, it needs to protect and support. Since this is likely going to be an external frame, none of this will be in contact with the wearer's back anyway.

 

I agree that a camelback would be nice, as well as pockets and stashes for trail necessities separate from photography. I suppose I was focussing only on the camera. But the hike should be a total experience, not just a monomaniacal quest for a photo.

 

bill

Hi, Bill

 

Wayne pretty much nailed it. Having had extensive experience in

the custom limited-production pack market (sky-diving

harness/containers and associated products, including SWAT

team after-market accessories), I concur that anything made as

a one-off is going to be $$$. Probably upwards of fifteen hundred

dollars - maybe more. And the design of the all-important

harness system can be a royal PIA.

 

Since I started out with Lowe-Pro's original Super-Trekker some

short years ago, and abused it terribly until I blew the zippers out,

I decided this year to upgrade to their latest Super-Trekker. I find

myself more than satisfied with maybe 90% of the design, and in

those design areas I couldn't make parts of the pack work, I

modified it to do what I wanted it to do.

 

The harness is the most comfortable one I have worn. Since I

find myself carrying sixty to sixty-five pounds (or more) on day

jaunts at altitude, relative 'comfort' , especially after that first mile,

quickly becomes important.

 

The Sinar P-2, disassembled as necessary, but not excessively

so, fits easily in the generous compartment. It quickly became

obvious, however, that the interior removable padding would

have to be rearranged to accomodate - everything. That simply

took a bit of re-assembling, packing, thinking, swearing, ripping,

tearing, carrying, re-thinking, re-tinkering, and evolving so that the

system morphed into my own twisted conception of what is right

and what isn't.

 

The system, as sold, includes a day pack. After using a hot-knife

to cut away the harness on that day pack, I found I was able to fit

two full Kodak Fuji Boxes and miscellaneous other junk within

that pack. The day pack itself fits, piggyback style, centered on

the back of the main container - and on top of the Gitzo 1348 MKII

tripod. A Manfrotto 3263 very heavy three-way geared head tops

the top.

 

The system Lowe intended for securing the tripod - a few lengths

of thin elastic cord - went into the garbage. It was replaced with

one inch webbing, and reconfigured with buckles supplied as

after-market items by REI. That tripod isn't going anywhere now,

except where I want it to go. The idea I had here is to have

everything on the pack move with me as a unit, with minimal

wobbling.

 

This pack is a considerable improvement over the original. With

the exception of the modifications noted above, I will recommend

it to any large-format photographer who is interested in the most

bomb-proof pack and harness coimbination available on the

market today.

 

Since you live in the same High-Desert area I often travel through

on my way to other places, and since this is my personal

off-season for taking pictures, I would be willing to stop by and

show you how I put it together. Perhaps just seeing one small

example of what works for one photographer would stir your own

creative juices, so that you could get closer to your dream pack.

 

Feel free to contact me off-thread, or not, as you prefer.

 

Best regards,

nother vote for the Super trekker II...I carry a toyo 45a, Contax 645, and a canon D30,6 Lens, and a slew of other things...REally good harness system as Bill stated..Check ebay..Picked one up Brand new shipped overnight for 285...Very happy with this pack!!!!

Hi Bill,

 

A good subject... I think we're all in the same boat. As an avid rock climber, snowboarder & ice climber, I've run into some of the same problems. One piece of advice I would give you is that bigger isn't necessarliy better. What is important is how the pack fits your body. In severe "bushwacking" or crawling under/over downed trees or on a 100+ foot rapel what is important is that the pack isn't sliding around or throwing you off balance. So first and foremost find a backpack that fits you well and sort of feels like it becomes a part of your body. In other words, comfortable. Ideally you should forget that you have it on. The last thing you want is your pack catching on everything going thru the woods or some ungainly thing that weighs you down and makes your shoulders hurt.

 

On the subject of picking a good camera pack. I have had to make some compromises on what I consider important. The dedicated packs made for cameras (at least to me) leave a lot to be desired in the back country. Per haps even more suprising I found that a Dakine snowboard pack makes an excellent "dual purpose" pack. I can fit my field camera (an old Crown Graphic) a couple of holders and my Nikon F-100 easily. The external pouch fits my 70-300 lens, my filter wallet and a one quart Nalgene water bottle as well as lunch. I use the side loops, originally designed to fit a rescue shovel or ice axes, to carry my monopod or even fit a basic tripod. The daisy chains on the outside allow me to affix my climbing harness and rock climbing shoes and drape a rope over the top. Some packs will have bottom straps that allow you affix stuff like ropes to the bottom as well. The nice thing about a snowboard pack is that it completely unzips so you don't have to dig everything out of the top.

 

Of course all the above info is out the window if you plan to carry an 8x10 or (gasp) even larger.

 

Steve

I've been through the backpack dilemma several times. The "ONLY" LF backpack that I

would use is the Lowepro Roadrunner AW. It is large enough, waterproof, has a

handle and wheels, and most important it fits like a glove on your back due to its

expedition design similar to the high-end Lowepro backpacks. It even comes with an

external daypack that attaches to the main pack which I use to transport my sheet

film holders and Polaroids, etc. as well as a tri-pod attachment and water bottle

holders. I carry a Toyo AII 4X5 with Schneider lenses and have dropped the pack

(down a hill) without any damage to my gear at all! It is pricey, but its a good

insurance policy for the expensive equiptment I carry in it.