Using the T90 manually? Help needed.

Well, I was given a T90 sometime ago with two FD lenses, so hopefully

this is the proper forum for this question.

 

I've read through the T90 manuel multiple times, but cannot seem to

figure out how to operate this camera in full-manual mode. One part

said the camera needed to be set on shutter priority (Tv), and to

adjust the aperature value on the barrel tube, producing a fully-

manual camera.

 

However, I did some bracketing while taking a photography class at

the Fashion Institute of Technology, and none of my negatives seemed

to show any difference in tone when I tried to bracket.

 

What am I doing wrong? I would really like to use this camera in

manual mode, and am hopeful that someone will have the answer, or at

least the direction to where the answer can be found.

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Dave Wright

Are you shooting slide film or print film, and if print film, are you looking at contact sheets or proof prints? If you are shooting print film and looking at machine proofs, the printer may be "correcting" your bracketed exposures so they all look the same if you're not looking for the more subtle effects of over/under exposure, like shadow detail, grain, etc.

Are you stopping down the aperture? If you do the camera will go into stop-down metering mode, that is like aperture priority and will override the shutter speed you selected. Maybe you can use the exposure compensation dial for bracketing.

<i>However, I did some bracketing while taking a photography class at the Fashion Institute of Technology, and none of my negatives seemed to show any difference in tone when I tried to bracket.</i><p>

 

The directions are right -- if you set the aperture on the barrel to f 5.6 and set the Tv setting to 1/125s, you'll get 1/125s and f5.6. If you're shooting print film and not developing/printing it yourself, then your lab is probably compensating automatically. Try slides, or a contact proof of the entire roll, or scan each neg at the same scanner setting.

The answers you've gotten so far are good but let me clarify...<p>First off I agree 100 percent with the neg versus slide film answer. If your shooting negs then there is a <B>very </b> good chance your lab is compensating for the variations that you have dialed in to your exposures. My rule of thumb here is a lab can more or less compensate for (how does this sound guys?) about 1.5 stops underexposure to at least 3 stops overexposure.<p>Manual metering with �the tank��disclaimer here; I don�t manually meter very often using FD mount lenses, rather I use stopped down metering with uncommon fixed aperture lenses. I say this because way back in the foggy recesses of my brain I can remember something Canon put out a warning that manual metering with FD lenses could be off (half a stop?) for some reason�I�ll have to research this and will post it when found.<p>How do I shoot manually? There is two ways of going about this.<p>First: with the tank on manual meter the scene. Whatever the reading in the viewer finder is <B>what you must set the camera for</b>. It doesn�t mater if the aperture ring is set at f1.4 or f22 when you read the scene. If the viewfinder readout says the scene�s metering at f5.6 then f5.6 is what you have to adjust your aperture ring to.<p>I�ll post the second (less preferrable) method called <i>stop down metering</i>, in a later post (the boss is coming to talk fishing with me�very important subject for us).

Using any T- or A-series camera in manual mode is a three step process.

 

1) Sell the camera.

2) Buy an F-1.

3) Shoot using match needle metering.

 

Sorry, not very helpful, but I couldn't resist. :-)

Joe...don't give up yet, there's still hope for you buddy, at least you didn't say leica...<p><b>Stop down metering with a T90.</b><p>I stop down meter when I use a mirror lens or the Sima and Spiratone Portragon softfocus lenses I play with. I believe that you would also use stop down metering if your camera was hooked to a bellows, scopes or other strange beasts...(I guess that would also include some types of extension tubes). I can not think why you'd want to stop down meter with a FD lens. (But thinking is not my strongest suit).<p>So with the lens aperture ring is off its auto setting and �the tanks� stop down lever pushed in you'll find things getting darker and darker as you turn the lens ring from its maximum through to its minimum setting. (I gotta throw this in...It is rumored that you can check your depth of field this way...well 25 plus years of trying that and these old eyes still can't see how!). Anyhow...turning the lens aperture allows more or less light to be read by the meter. Activating the meter will produce a readout along the bottom of the display. You'll notice that display will change when you adjust the aperture <i><b>and/or</b></i> the shutter speed dial.<p>A readout of <b>OP</b> means you�re under exposed.<p>A reading of <b>CL</b> means you�re over exposed.<p>And a reading of <b>oo</b> means that (just as Goldilocks said about the porridge) it's just right!

Sounds like Dave maybe got class assignment that called for full manual control camera work. Last answer is more or less the fully manual method for T90 to make it like ye old match- the- needle- with- the- index mark-forerunners. You get to pick the shutter speed and also the lens opening. As for results,Dave: If you inspected the negatives closely you would see some differences in density, but only when you bracket by maybe a full stop or actually even more. Film has latitude nowadays,even slide film. Its forgiving of less and more light. Use less forgiving slide film and try a test shot of your typical scene,(let's say the Bronze Age zigguraut in southern Iraq,) and make tripod shots at plus 1/2, 1, 2,and same at minus f stops. Then compare the slides and look for the difference in the sky color...that kind of thing. Good luck and carry a canteen. GS

NO! NO! NO! Sell the T90. Get an F-1 AND a Leica (maybe two) and a Bronica S2A . . . :-)

<i>a Leica (maybe two)</i>

<P>

I'd have to sell my house to get two Leicas. At least you didn't suggest two 'blads - I'd have to sell my neighbor's house too. I like the Bronica idea though, and I can afford one of those (maybe two).